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ROBATA
JAPANESE HOME
GRILLING
Silla Bjerrum
Photography
Keiko Oikawa
CONTENTS
Introduction
Fish Robata
Other Robata
Classic Yakitori
Other Skewers
Nibbles
Salads and Sides
Desserts and Drinks
Index
Acknowledgements
Introduction
Over the last two decades we have witnessed a global explosion in
sushi, with Japanese restaurants popping up in every corner of the
world. And with that a more recent trend has emerged, combining
sushi with robata. The word ‘robata’ translates as ‘fireside
cooking’, and is a Japanese style of grilling food, consisting of
delicious skewered morsels of fish, shellfish, meat and vegetables.
It is the perfect marriage of raw and cooked dishes, served
alongside each other and often eaten like tapas, with a focus on
sharing.
My love for robata has evolved through my career as a sushi
chef, and in 2015 I had the opportunity to launch a sushi and robata
restaurant inside Whole Foods Market, Kensington. Provenance
and seasonality have always been at the core of my cooking, and
the chefs and I strived to fine-tune classic robata and yakitori
dishes to great acclaim. We were cooking on a gas robata grill, a
wonderful piece of equipment; the provenance of the fish, meat and
seasonal vegetables was second to none; and we produced a menu
we were proud of. Yet it was not quite up there with the authentic
Japanese dishes, and so I treated myself to the real deal – a
shichirin grill, sometimes called a konro grill – and started playing
around with charcoals and recipes.
I am married to a barbecue master, and we are renowned for
throwing great summer parties: suckling pig, smoked briskets, jerk
chicken, slow-cooked ribs – all have become staples in our
household. It is all about the wood, the chips, the charcoal and
time, to create slow-cooked barbecue perfection. We even have a
great tradition of smoking our turkey at Christmas. It is my
husband David’s gig, but over the years I have fallen in love with
our smoker, our drum barbecue and our selection of Weber grills,
however nothing prepared me for owning a shichirin. It is a fast but
very pure form of grilling; the heat of the binchotan charcoals
literally locks in the flavours. It is like creating quality sushi:
marrying simple techniques with great attention to detail, and using
ingredients with natural flavour-enhancing properties. For
traditional robata and yakitori, the focus is on umami, the fifth
taste, which is accelerated with the use of soy-based sauces, miso,
shiitake, etc.
At its core, robata is the Japanese version of grilling, a link to
our original journey into gastronomy via fire, as cultures across the
world developed their own version of grilling and barbecuing. The
opinion is often held that the barbecue originated with Jamaican
jerk chicken, which was cooked over direct and indirect heat using
pimento wood in a fire pit, essentially grilling and smoking at the
same time, giving jerk chicken its distinctive flavour.
The backyard formula we are now so familiar with is based on
meat grilled over a direct gas or coal flame. It is fast and fairly easy
to handle, as long as attention is paid to protein being fully cooked.
The more adventurous home barbecues use slow cooking and
indirect grilling, smoking over coals and/or wood with natural
flavour enhancers added, with wood chips of many origins.
Robata differs significantly compared to the meat fest that we in
the West have elevated to a god-like institution with the core
principle of ‘more is more’. In contrast, robata is about delicacy,
provenance and combining a selection of ingredients to create a
nutritious, well-balanced meal. It is grilling over an open flame, so
relatively fast, but it is also live theatre, with the robata as the
central focal point. It is slow cooking fast.
In this book, you will find my interpretation of traditional
recipes from Japan and Japanese-style eateries across the West. I
have included some of my own twists and used artistic licence in
my cooking techniques, all in the search for perfectly grilled
Japanese food.
A history of robata
The traditional Japanese home was centred around the irori, an
open stone-lined fire pit and the heart of the home, a focal point
around which the family would gather for warmth, comfort and to
cook daily meals. They would typically use wood from fallen trees,
or more affluent households would use charcoal; the latter is
important for the evolution of the robata, as it was smoke-free and
would burn for longer than wood. The food grilled would be
seasonal and local, a traditional menu with lots of fish, tofu and
vegetable options.
Hokkaido is the larder of Japan, often talked about by the
Japanese with a twinkle in their eye and a romantic longing for
authentic Japanese food. The origin of robata stems from the
Hokkaido region, where fishermen would cook their lunch onboard
their vessels over small bincho charcoal fires, which were bought
on to the boat in stone boxes to ensure they didn’t set fire to the
wooden boats. These impromptu daily treats of freshly grilled fish
eventually became popular on land too, and this style of cooking
spread from fishing villages inland, further supported by a
government campaign, which spread its virtues widely across Japan
in the decades after the Second World War. The custom eventually
evolved into restaurants, which started to add meat and vegetables
to the menu, cooked over the rectangular pits we now associate
with robata.
The first robata restaurant opened in Sendai, in the Miyagi
prefecture, in 1950, and was called Robata, a name which has
stuck. The original format saw chefs sitting cross-legged behind a
stone-walled sunken pit loaded with smouldering hot binchotan
coals. Produce would typically be laid out in front of the chefs and
customers would pick items, which were handed to the chefs by
waiting staff, grilled, and handed back to the diners on large
wooden ladles representing fishermen’s oars – apparently the way
in which the Hokkaido fishermen would share their lunch among
boats.
Another very popular form of grilling over binchotan coals is
yakitori. Yakitori directly translates as ‘grilled chicken’ and
evolved as an urban phenomenon. Small yakitori restaurants would
pop up across a city as the perfect place to grab a few beers, some
chilled sake and a few perfectly grilled chicken skewers.
Traditionally, skewers are seasoned with tare sauce, a soy-based
basting sauce, or just seasoned with salt as they come off the
yakitori grill. Most parts of the chicken are used, including the
popular chicken skin and chicken heart.
As such, robata and yakitori are not distinctively different;
perhaps the differentiation is that robata had its roots in fish and
vegetable dishes, traditionally eaten at home, and originating in
Hokkaido and rural areas. Yakitori dishes originally consisted of
chicken and seasonal vegetables, as these were cheap and
accessible proteins in urban areas, and are a relatively new addition
to binchotan cooking. The robata grill tends to be made of clay,
which can withstand high temperatures, whereas a yakitori grill is
narrower and typically made of reinforced steel strong enough to
withstand the very high temperature. What both styles share is that
they are grilled over binchotan coals and direct heat.
How to cook robata
WHY BINCHOTAN?
Japan has been producing charcoal for almost 5,000 years as a
smoke- and flame-free source of heat for houses. The country has
large land areas covered in forest, so taking down trees and
producing charcoal has been an important part of maintaining
forestry through millennia. Binchotan (bincho) charcoals,
sometimes referred to as white charcoal due to the white residue
found on its surface, is a style of charcoal made from a heavy,
dense species of oak tree, such as the 20–30-year-old ubame oak
tree from Minabe in the Wakayama Prefecture, where some of the
finest bincho is produced. Bincho coals were first adopted by the
aristocracy as a smoke-free fuel to heat theirpalaces, before being
adapted for cooking purposes and popularized by the new portable
cooking tool, the hibachi, a rectangular or round box with inner
walls covered in an inflammable ceramic material, which took
cooking on charcoal from a luxury to an everyday custom.
Bincho coals now have an almost mythical status among chefs.
Grilling with bincho makes the surface of the food crisp and keeps
the inside juicy, a result of the far-reaching infra-red heat produced
by the coals. The crispness of the outside is aided by the absence of
moisture from the bincho, as it produces no steam. When droplets
of natural fat and meat juices drip on to the charcoal it creates a
reverse cooking effect by creating puffs of smoke projected back
on to the meat; according to Japanese chef folklore, this is the
secret to tender, perfectly grilled chicken yakitori.
There are various styles and quality of bincho charcoals; some
are shaped like the original pieces of wood, while others have been
pressed into long cylinder-shaped briquettes, made from surplus
sawdust from sawmills. It takes at least three days to produce
constantly burning bincho coals in a clay-clad kiln. For the first
two days the wood is sealed off from the elements and burned, then
oxygen is gradually added until the raw wood has been totally
carbonized. This method produces strong-burning, long-lasting
charcoal, and bincho can burn for many hours without producing
smoke.
A bigger and more recent version of the traditional hibachi grill
is the shichirin, or robata grill, a rectangular cooking device made
in black iron and light ceramic clay, which can withstand
temperatures of up to 800°C (1500°F). For the diehard robata fan I
do recommend investing in a shichirin, as it retains the heat of the
bincho phenomenally well and gives hours of quality grilling. They
are not too heavy and can be moved easily if you do not have a
dedicated permanent outdoor space for your grill.
Rule number one with a shichirin is not to get it wet; if kept
outdoors, ensure it is always covered and, post-grilling, I
recommend removing the charcoals with a set of tongs and leaving
them to cool down in a metal bucket of water. If you have set up
your robata session with underlaying lump charcoal, spread this
across the base of the shichirin and leave it to burn out. With the
bincho charcoals removed, they should take no more than 30
minutes to cool down. Remove the charcoal dust from the chamber
of the shichirin, and wipe the inside of the grill clean with a very
light damp cloth.
It is worth mentioning that there are many other uses for bincho
coals: to control moisture and damp under floorboards, to eliminate
odours in the fridge; they can be used as fertilizer, enhancing the
natural growth of leaf vegetables; and to purify water, including
during rice cooking, making the rice fluffy due to the mineral
content of sodium and potassium causing the grains to swell.
SETTING UP THE ROBATA GRILL
Traditionally, bincho charcoals are burned initially in a charcoal
starter (a portable metal cylinder-shaped chimney, which allows air
to circulate and speeds up the heating of the coals) over a gas
flame, then decanted in to the robata grill. The purer the charcoal,
the cleaner the food, both literally and in its taste profile, so do
avoid firelighters and cheap briquettes. The best alternative to
bincho charcoals would be hardwood charcoal; ideally source a
local charcoal devoid of chemicals. Standard commercial charcoal
briquettes are often mixed with carbohydrates such as wheat and
corn, which may explain their limitations in terms of burn time and
heat.
Depending on your menu, build up the robata grill accordingly.
If you are throwing a larger party, cooking for ten people or more, I
recommend going 100 per cent bincho and building up your robata
chamber with bincho charcoals only. In a charcoal chimney, build
up the bincho with some old newspaper and small pieces of natural
firelighter, then start the funnel, and when all sides of the bincho
are ash white, decant them into the robata grill. You need about 2kg
(4lb. 6oz.) of coals per starter, and it takes about 20 minutes for
each chimney starter. Decant the bincho to the robata as they are
ready. Alternatively, start a bincho charcoal fire in a smaller
barbecue adjacent to the robata grill. I recommend using a bag of
good-quality lump charcoal; set this alight and wait for the coals to
turn grey. Then place the bincho on top of the coals, rotating the
bincho with a set of tongs as they take colour. When all the bincho
charcoal is glowing, transport it to the robata grill using a set of
tongs. This set up will need a certain amount of attention, however,
whereas the chimney allows you to get on with other preparation.
Subject to the size of your robata chamber, you will need 2–3
sets of bincho coals. When all the coals are ready, build up two
sections of different heat intensity in the grill. It is important to
arrange the bincho neatly, preferably lengthways and to the same
length as the skewers. Chicken should be cooked slowly, allowing
the fat of the chicken to render, whereas fish requires a more
intense heat. For some dishes, such as ribs, you may need two
different kinds of heat: the hotter section seals the meat, but once
the glaze is added – and therefore sugar and alcohol – you want to
continue grilling on the cooler side of the robata to avoid burning
the protein. The binchotan heat settles after about 40 minutes, so
the first batch of coals will be ideal for the cooler part of the grill.
DIY ROBATA GRILL
As a robata novice, it is worthwhile ordering a box of bincho
charcoal online and having a play around with these to ensure you
have the bug before investing large amounts of money in a robata.
It is a great exercise in understanding the power and purity of
bincho charcoal. If you cook professionally, I could not think of a
more perfect idea for a small start-up food business with which to
tour local markets and join in the festival season.
Conventional barbecue charcoal will typically burn at a
maximum of 400°C (750°F), and it is important to keep this in
mind, as many standard barbecues are built from steel and able to
withstand only this level of heat. As bincho charcoal potentially
burns at twice the intensity, I would not recommend placing these
at the base of a standard barbecue as they could burn through the
bottom. A drum or brick barbecue or a Weber barbecue are ideal
for the DIY robata. Or the latest must-have is the Green Egg, an
evolution of the hibachi – an egg-shaped cast-iron kettle lined with
ceramic, which is able to withstand intense heat. Designed for
direct and indirect grilling, it is very suitable for robata too.
Use the compressed style of bincho charcoal as these keep their
shape as they burn, which ensures that none of the charcoal falls to
the base of the barbecue, as it does with traditional lump wood. The
best method is to place a sturdy wire rack across the base, of a
similar quality to the racks used in a standard conventional oven
and made from steel strong enough to withstand the high heat. If
the rack is too thin it will eventually be damaged by the heat and
there is a risk of contaminating the robata feasts with small pieces
of steel. You will need two wire racks of the same quality which fit
inside the barbecue and which can be hung from hinges attached to
the inside walls. Check that the wire racks fit and ensure both are
clean.
To grill on the DIY robata, start the bincho coals in a charcoal
chimney, just as you would when grilling on the robata grill. When
the bincho charcoals are ready, place them neatly in a block on the
wire rack at the base. Use a pair of long tongs for this as the heat
will be very intense. Then place the second wire rack on top,
ensuring this is attached to the hinge on the side of the barbecue to
create a space between the bincho charcoal and the second wire
rack; the wire rack should not balance on the bincho, but be
secured to theside of the barbecue. If possible, the second wire
rack should have a grid pattern.
To build a pit inside the barbecue for grilling over the bincho,
take four bricks – either fire-resistant bricks, or wrap standard
bricks in a couple of layers of tin foil (not lined with paper) – and
place them on the bottom rack, wide enough apart so that the
skewers can rest on each side. I recommend placing these across
the direction of the line of wires as they will rest more securely.
When the bincho coals are ready to be moved from the charcoal
chimney, place them inside the makeshift pit.
When the barbecue is ready, the heat will be good and the pure
taste from the bincho charcoal will penetrate the ingredients as they
are grilled. The DIY robata will not retain heat to the same degree
as a shichirin chamber, but it will be a pretty good example of
Japanese-style robata.
In my opinion, all seasons are robata seasons; as the Danes says,
there is no wrong weather, just wrong clothing. But if it is raining
and you do not have suitable cover or do not fancy cooking under
an umbrella, then the oven is the get-out clause.
For a makeshift robata pit in the oven, turn the oven grill to its
highest setting. On a baking sheet, create a mini pit high enough for
the skewers not to touch the base. I have previously used eight
sushi rolling mats: take two mats and fold them into a rectangle,
then wrap tightly in a few layers of foil (not lined with paper) and
tuck in the ends so the bamboo is totally covered. As we are now
operating in the realm of modernity, using either gas or electricity,
we have lost some of the pure binchotan heat and the reverse
smoke created from fat droplets. Therefore, place the skewers
across the pit and brush with sunflower oil, then turn the skewers
and brush with oil again. Wait for the skewers to take on colour and
cook through, then start brushing with tare sauce, rotating and
repeating until nicely covered. The trick here is to ensure the
skewers are just cooked before adding the sauce; if the sauce is
added too early, the food will be steaming in sweet soy sauce
instead of grilling.
TOOLS
There are two methods of grilling on the robata, either on a wire
rack placed over the coals, or on skewers directly over the coals.
The latter tend to be wooden skewers, either round or rectangular-
shaped with a pointy tip and small handle; should you be tempted
to eat straight from the skewer, this will come in handy. Both types
of skewer come in various lengths, to be placed across the grill,
thereby avoiding using tongs and just rotating the skewers by hand.
This is an important detail as less handling of the meat creates a
more tender result.
When cooking on a wire rack you will need a wire brush and a
neutral oil such as vegetable oil. The rack should be scrubbed clean
after each robata session, and when reused should be heated by the
charcoal to remove any debris and products which may have
remained after the last clean. When you have finished cooking, rub
the rack down with the wire brush, leave to cool, then clean in
soapy water. Furthermore, it is important to rub down the wire rack
between dishes so as not to contaminate the flavours; for example,
after fish and before fruit you really want to ensure the wire rack is
clean. Most dishes will need a light coating of oil on both the wire
rack and the ingredient, and it’s best to use a silicone pastry brush
or grill brush for this task. Oiling the wire rack may cause a flare of
flames; just stand back, allow the flames to settle, then place the
food on the rack.
Your knife will probably be your most prized tool when cooking
Japanese food. Handmade Japanese knives are an art form, and a
centuries-old tradition of sword- and knife-making is evident in
their craftsmanship. There are three basic categories of traditional
Japanese knives. The usuba is typically used for vegetable
preparation and shredding. The deba knife is another preparation
knife, typically used to fillet fish and for more strenuous tasks, such
as removing fish heads and scales, or cutting through bone and
cartilage. The long-bladed yanagiba, along with the sashimi knife,
is used for preparing sashimi, and is suitable for raw and seared
protein preparation. With the yanagiba, you cut from the heel of the
knife, drawing the blade towards yourself to utilize the full length. I
believe there is one perfect knife for each of us: invest heavily and
maintain with care and you have a knife for life.
Other essential tools include a small saucepan in which to heat
the tare sauce, a sauce mop, tongs, spatula and a frying pan
(skillet).
Left to right: basic yanagiba knife; yanagiba knife for advanced skills;
sashimi knife; all-purpose knife; deba knife
Clockwise from top left: small saucepan and whisk, wire brush,
spatula, silicone brushes, tongs, sauce mop
Key Japanese ingredients
Japanese food, in all its incarnations, has some basic building
blocks, a set of key ingredients which have evolved over the
centuries and which are very specific to this kind of cuisine. The
defining feature of many of these ingredients is umami, the fifth
taste, best described as a savoury ingredient which acts as a natural
flavour enhancer, lifting the original ingredient. Umami is found in
shiitake, kombu, soy, miso and bonito flakes; the latter are used in
hon dashi, the base stock for many marinades, broths and soups.
Soy, brewed using fermented soy beans, is used instead of salt,
although some of the more Westernized dishes in this book use sea
salt in its place.
Shown here are all the various Japanese flavours, sauces and
seaweeds I have grown fond of over the years. It is not an
exhaustive list, but these are what give robata and yakitori that
special twist. My personal three favourites are miso, yuzu and
wasabi.
MISO
Miso is an ancient food which has been eaten in the Far East for
thousands of years. It is made from soy beans, which are soaked,
steamed and then fermented for a minimum of 3 months with a koji
mould starter and either wheat, rice or barley to aid the process. It
is relatively easy to make and traditionally would have been
primarily homemade. However, as urban cities grew, so did miso
vendors, who traditionally sold miso by weight, served up in large
wooden barrels. The vendors are still to be found in Japan to this
day, although miso is now widely available in health food stores,
Asian stores and leading supermarkets globally.
Miso has many properties for good health: it is low in fat, high
in protein and packed full of lovely bacteria, similar to those found
in live yogurt, sauerkraut, sourdough and kimchi. Miso paste has a
naturally high umami content, and for miso soup this is enhanced
with the addition of kombu, hon dashi and shiitake, then served
with wakame, tofu and spring onions (scallions) in its classic
incarnation. There are many varieties of miso soup, with the
addition of more vegetables, or other proteins such as fish, but its
uses reach far beyond soup. Miso is now entering mainstream
cooking and is a fantastic addition to endless dishes, not only
adding flavour, but increasing protein count while lowering fat in
dips and dressings.
Sweet miso is the youngest, fermenting for just 3 months; the
more common yellow miso is typically fermented for 6 months;
and the richer red miso is aged for a minimum of 12 months, the
flavour becoming more layered and complex over time, providing
it is kept in the correct conditions, including the slow ferment in a
traditional cedar wood barrel. Sweet miso is less salty, tends to be
more expensive, but is great for sweet dishes such as Miso Ice
Cream. White miso is less sweet, and is used in soups, dressings
and as a marinade; mirin, sake and sugar are often added to white
miso, as the alcohol and sugar stimulate the properties of the miso
when used on fish, meat or tofu, creating smooth caramelized
protein.
YUZU
Yuzu is Japanese citrus, best described as a fruit with a flavour
profile somewhere between a pink grapefruitand lime, and with the
appearance of a yellow tangerine. It is very tart and commonly
used in savoury dishes, like ponzu sauce, dips and marinades.
Recently yuzu juice has become more easily available and chefs
have started experimenting, using it in classic dessert recipes like
pannacotta, cheesecake and ice cream. I recommend using the
purest yuzu juice, but be aware that the juice is sometimes slightly
salted to enhance its shelf life, so do adjust recipes accordingly, use
sparingly and store in the fridge. Its distinctive flavour does lift a
dish, however.
Yuzu kosho is a condiment served with many dishes, including
robata. It is tart, tangy, bitter and hot, all at the same time, and
made from fermented yuzu rind, yuzu juice, green or red chilli.
Fresh yuzu is magical and is now successfully grown in hotter
climates outside Japan, in both America and Europe. My autumn
sanctuary is my friend Vicente Todoli’s Citrus Foundation, a citrus
nursery near the coast of Valencia, dedicated to the preservation of
at least 380 rare species, and counting. Vicente has transformed his
father’s orange nursery into a shrine for live citrus past and present,
to actively promote bio-diversity and create a playground for citrus
enthusiasts, scientists, academics and chefs alike. The yuzu is
harvested around December/January, an event I never miss when,
with a child’s greed, I go yuzu picking at the Citrus Foundation’s
orchard.
The aroma of a freshly picked yuzu is mesmerizing. It is a
relatively soft fruit and its pores are almost oozing with juices. It is
very soft inside with large pips; to me it is so precious that I use the
whole fruit with the exception of the pips. Yuzu leaves are included
in the recipe shown here; they are not as perfumed as lime leaves,
but have a mild aroma of yuzu, perfect for hot smoking.
WASABI
Wasabi was originally foraged from the wild, and would typically
be found along gravel water streams. Wasabi has been cultivated in
Japan since the sixteenth century and became an important part of
the evolution of sushi, being served as an accompaniment to sushi
with pickled ginger and soy. The three key components which
make sushi safe to eat raw are the pH of the pickled sushi rice; the
freshest, finest-quality fish prepared with Japanese sword-quality
knives; and the properties of wasabi as both a flavour enhancer and
antiseptic. However, most of the wasabi we consume comes in
powder form and is made from mustard powder, English
horseradish, flavourings, colourings, and about 1 per cent real
wasabi.
Real wasabi is now grown in the UK and is available online, and
unsurprisingly the quality is far beyond the powdered stuff. It
grows with beautiful large leaves, which are also edible – they’re
great in salads or used as a wrap to roll or steam. For wasabi paste,
the roots of the plant, the rhizomes, are grated in circular
movements, traditionally on a shark skin grater, although modern
versions made of plastic are also available for a fraction of the
price. Wasabi is best eaten neat, and is perfect to either spice up soy
sauce or as a tiny dot of seasoning on a piece of protein. It should
be eaten freshly grated for the best potency: it’s sweet when it first
hits the taste buds, but then opens up the back of the throat and
sinuses for a wasabi heat flush. Truly addictive.
1 WAKAME SEAWEED
2 KOMBU
3 BONITO FLAKES
4 PICKLED GINGER
5 WASABI
6 FURIKAKE
7 AONORI SEAWEED
8 BLACK SESAME SEEDS
9 WHITE SESAME SEEDS
21 LIQUID KOMBU DASHI
WAKAME SEAWEED (1) is dehydrated seaweed used most
commonly in miso and soups, but also very suitable as a salad
ingredient and a component of many appetizer dishes. Wakame
looks like black tea, but blooms into beautiful green leaves when
placed in plenty of iced water 20 minutes before use.
KOMBU (2), dried seaweed kelp, is an absolute cornerstone of
Japanese food and is packed full of natural umami. Often just used
as a component while cooking the dish and then removed, it is an
important part of dashi broth. Although kombu is edible after
soaking, finely cut julienne-style in seaweed salad, bento and sushi
bowls, fresh, locally harvested kombu is becoming more widely
available and is highly recommended.
BONITO FLAKES (3), also called
katsuobushi, is another key ingredient
of dashi, made from the shavings of
smoked dried fermented bonito fish.
Bonito fish is in the same family as
tuna and mackerel, and most similar to
skipjack tuna. In fact, these days lots
of katsuobushis are made from
skipjack tuna. Bonito contains a high
level of concentrated umami. Also
used as a garnish on smaller dishes,
sashimi, sushi and the Japanese version of street food served at
seasonal festivals throughout Japan.
PICKLED GINGER (4) is commonly used in sushi, and was
originally intended as a palate cleanser between different flavours
of sushi. It is a fantastic ingredient in its own right, with some great
shop-bought versions. The general rule is to look for paler, softer
ginger to which no artificial colours have been added; it is worth
checking the label.
WASABI (5) is mostly available in powder form. Wasabi powder
differs from real wasabi root as it contains little from the real root,
but mainly consists of mustard powder, English horseradish and
wasabi flavouring. Wasabi without colour is the better and healthier
option.
FURIKAKE (6) is a Japanese sprinkle, often served on top of rice
or on rice balls, and popular with children. It comes in many
variations. The classic version of furikake contains sweet nori
flakes, bonito flakes, wasabi mustard granules and sesame seeds.
AONORI SEAWEED (7) are seaweed flakes used to season
okonomiyaki and other Japanese foods. Aonori can also be used to
flavour batters, or in marinades and butters, adding an even mellow
umami flavour and texture.
BLACK SESAME SEEDS (8), the great cousin of white sesame
seeds, are mostly sold pre-toasted and have a slightly nuttier and
deeper flavour than white sesame, albeit with most of the same
health benefits; they are a good source of essential minerals like
magnesium and calcium. Sesame is a zinc-rich food and the correct
intake supports the immune system.
WHITE SESAME SEEDS (9), from the sesame plant, have been
grown and cultivated for centuries. The seeds have the same oil
content and health benefits as black sesame seeds, but are milder
and an everyday ingredient of Japanese food as well as across the
Middle East. With an oil content of about 55 per cent, and 20 per
cent fat, they are a high source of both essential fatty acids and
certain amino acids. For Japanese food these are often bought pre-
toasted.
10 KIMCHI
11 SRIRACHA
12 SHICHIMI
13 RED MISO
14 YELLOW MISO
15 SWEET MISO
16 MIRIN
17 COOKING SAKE
18 YUZU JUICE
19 SOY SAUCE
20 JAPANESE FISH SAUCE
KIMCHI (10) is a Korean chilli sauce with a complex mellow, yet
hot and slightly smoky flavour. It is a thick paste containing
ingredients like fish sauce, bonito flakes and Korean chilli flake
mix. There are some great shop-bought brands of kimchi, and it is
an ideal store cupboard item, to be used in dressings, marinades
and as the base sauce for kimchi pickles.
SRIRACHA (11) is Thai chilli sauce, including distilled vinegar. It
is slightly hotter than kimchi, and commonly available in fast-food
joints across the globe. Sriracha is a great base chilli sauce for
dressings and marinades.
SHICHIMI (12), Japanese togarashi, consists of seven different
kinds of flavours, of which two have heat: ground Sancho and red
chilli. Other ingredients are hemp seeds, aonori, sesame seeds,
poppy seeds and orange peel. Colourful and pretty, it is most
commonly used as a seasoning for noodles, more recently as a
sushi topping, and also in some robata dishes.
RED MISO (13), richer and darker in its flavour profile than
standard miso; it would have been fermented for longer.
MISO (14), or yellow miso, is the standard miso, fermented for 6–9
months and used as a base ingredient for miso soup, broths,
marinades and dressings.SWEET MISO (15) is less common and more difficult to make. It
is much sweeter, with a shorter ferment, and good to use in desserts
and baked goods.
MIRIN (16) is a sweet Japanese cooking wine similar to sake, but
with less alcohol and used exclusively in cooking. Mirin adds a
rounded sweetness to many dishes, preferred to just pure sugar, and
is an essential ingredient in Japanese cooking.
COOKING SAKE (17) is standard sake, of a lesser quality than
drinking sake, but an essential ingredient for cooking broths and
marinades. It has been modified with pure alcohol, therefore it is
not recommended as a tipple as it gives a terrible headache.
YUZU JUICE (18), made from the Japanese citrus fruit yuzu
(check the label for a pure yuzu), lasts best in the fridge once open,
or can be frozen. Fresh yuzu juice is less common, but a magical
ingredient which freezes well too. All parts of the yuzu except for
the large round white pips are used in Japanese cooking.
SOY SAUCE (19), the most famous of all Japanese ingredients, is
used in almost all Japanese dishes or served as a dipping sauce.
Made from fermented and strained soy bean, its savoury and salty
flavour seasons most Japanese cooking.
JAPANESE FISH SAUCE (20) is an important ingredient, not as
strong and harsh in its flavour as Thai or Indonesian fish sauce, and
typically made from small oily fish like sardines. Used in soups,
marinades and pickles.
LIQUID KOMBU DASHI (21) is made from kombu and is a great
flavour-enhancing ingredient used in pickles, sauces and
marinades.
A NOTE ON SOURCING SALMON
Working with Japanese food, I have seen my fair share of wild and
farmed salmon. Unfortunately, wild salmon has never really been a
viable option due to its price tag, scarcity, short season, and the fact
that salmon is the most popular option for sushi.
I am a big advocate for responsibly farmed salmon for many
reasons; beyond supply and demand, I believe many parts of the
salmon industry have evolved dramatically over the last three
decades, responding well to concerns and always improving. Try
and seek out fisheries with high standards for husbandry, low-
environmental-impact farming, sourcing sustainable feed, and with
a low density and fallow system working in harmony with the local
wild animal population.
Well-managed, small areas of the ocean can be a viable option
for producing healthy fish for a growing population, but like all
farming, we need to monitor the impact, ensuring not to damage
wild populations, and using feed based on a healthy stock from a
sustainable source – almost identical to good farming practice. We
also need to consider our own consumption, eating healthy viable
options, just a little less often.
My preference in terms of flavour and texture is firm, yet
smooth; buttery, but not fatty. This is related to the fitness of the
fish, and the combination of fishmeal and fish oil in the feed. For
reassurance, look for the Label Rouge to indicate good flavour and
well-managed, responsibly farmed salmon and animal welfare.
Salmon should be equally delicious raw as cooked, and for
salmon recipes (and the sea trout) in this book, the trick is not to
overgrill, so the fish is ‘just’ cooked, flaky, and the product is
enhanced.
For tips on preparing salmon, and details of the various different
cuts, see my website: sillabjerrum.com.
http://www.sillabjerrum.com/
small salmon steaks for salmon negishio (shown here, here);
trimmed salmon; (front) salmon belly, (back) salmon skin (shown
here)
SAUCES AND MARINADES
Tare sauce, made with soy, mirin and sake, is the most commonly
used basting sauce for robata recipes. Other ingredients would
typically include ginger, garlic, shiitake and chicken stock. The
sauce adds a lot of additional flavour and depth to the robata, and it
is highly recommended to vary the flavours of the tare sauce across
different dishes. For a gluten-free version, replace soy sauce with a
good-quality tamari sauce (this is also alcohol-free for a halal
meal). To apply the tare sauce, use the dip or brush method: decant
the sauce into a rectangular container long enough to hold the
skewered produce, then simply dip or use a sauce mop or silicone
brush to brush over the sauce.
I tend to thicken my tare sauce with potato flour; this is not
authentically Japanese, but I find it gives a slightly thicker sauce,
which needs fewer applications and therefore doesn’t overcook the
meat. I also like to brine yakitori dishes as I find it keeps the
chicken that bit more moist and tender; again, this is an addition of
my own.
Marinades, mostly soy-, miso- and dashi-based, are used for
robata dishes, and are a great way of enhancing and altering the
flavours of meat, fish and vegetables. These dishes need a longer
preparation time – anything from 1 to 48 hours – which requires
extra planning, but makes the workload less on the day of cooking.
TARE SAUCE
Place 12 chicken wing tips, 250ml (1 cup) boiling water, 2 dried
shiitake mushrooms and a pinch of salt in a small saucepan and
simmer for 1 hour. Drain, retaining only the liquid. Peel a 3cm
(11/4in.) piece of fresh ginger and slice thinly. Return the liquid to
the pan, add 150ml (2/3 cup) soy sauce, 150ml (2/3 cup) mirin, 2
cloves of garlic and the ginger, and heat gently for 20 minutes until
just before boiling point. Combine a little potato flour with a little
water, reduce the heat and gradually add the flour mixture until you
have a thick, smooth sauce.
SAKE-MIRIN SPRAY
Bincho charcoal creates less dust than conventional barbecue coals,
and I like to use a sake-mirin spray to control the flames and add
moisture and flavour to the food, particularly to protein-based
dishes which have not been marinated. It also builds up the
sweetness and crispiness of the food. I use a simple recipe of 100ml
(scant 1/2 cup) each of cooking sake and mirin, and 300ml (11/4
cups) water in a spray bottle (do not recycle a cleaning bottle, but
invest in a food-only spray bottle).
COOKING TIMES
Grilling relies on many different things affecting the end result: the
quality of coals, the cooking device, weather and quality of
ingredients, so timings vary and are not set in stone. Rule number
one is to stay with the robata throughout, as some dishes cook in a
matter of minutes, or need rotating, so no distractions!
Cooking on skewers is easier as all pieces are the same size and,
providing the coals are stacked neatly, the pieces of meat should
cook evenly. Follow the timing instructions in the recipes, but if in
doubt use one skewer as a tester, cutting into a piece to check if it is
cooked.
When cooking poultry on the bone, I recommend cutting in as
far as the bone of one piece to ensure the meat is cooked all the
way through. If it looks slightly raw and bloody, return it to the
robata. For red meat, press a finger into the centre of the piece: if
very soft and it feels like the finger could sink into the meat, it is
just seared; if it is soft to touch and the imprint of the finger
remains on the meat for a few seconds, it is medium-rare; and if
firm to the touch then it is well done. Most red meat dishes would
be rare to medium-rare – robata-style dishes are rarely well done –
but do check your guests’ preferences.
Most recipes in this book will also be perfectly delicious cooked
in a conventional oven, but it goes without saying that the true
magic happens on the robata with the binchotan.
How to enjoy the robata meal
Robata is a leisurely style of restaurant eating. It is slow fast-food
for diners, whereas yakitori tends to be more of an impulsive snack
with a few drinks – fast fast-food. The major difference between
yakitori and the commercial fast-food we have encountered in the
West for the last three decades, is that more preparation and
thought would have gone in to the typical yakitori restaurant; it is
very possible to find a good-quality yakitori joint which is
affordable and tasty at the same time, both in Japan and in
metropolitan cities across the globe.I tend to find that the focus in
Japanese food is often on getting the maximum yield out of the
ingredients, and not so much about provenance, in terms of animal
welfare or fish sustainability. This is obviously a very general
observation, and new concepts and restaurants are emerging in
which themes around sustainability are taking centre stage, so do
ask questions to help you find your favourite places.
Old-school robata restaurants based on the traditions of
Hokkaido tend to be expensive, but it is worth it simply for the
culinary experience, and it is usually a longer meal experience. If
you are eating in Japan, and are not fluent in Japanese, it is easy to
order as the menu will be laid out in front of you. Typically, there
will be a mixture of fish, vegetables and tofu, enjoyed with a few
small side plates and miso soup, all served on long wooden trays to
resemble fishermen’s oars.
More modern robata-style places mix different kinds of protein,
including many meat dishes and other items from the Japanese
menu, such as sushi, sashimi and noodles. Places like these are
becoming a global trend and a great form of dining as there is
likely to be something on the menu for everyone.
Nonetheless, this book is to encourage you to replicate this style
of cooking at home. It is all about buying good-quality ingredients,
having the right robata set-up for grilling, and setting aside some
time. The preparation is time consuming, but should be recreational
and in no way stressful. For your first robata feast I recommend
doing no more than five grilled dishes for a maximum of ten
people. Include a mixture of all categories, but also select three side
dishes and a few nibbles.
Robata-style cooking is the perfect opportunity to include local,
seasonal dishes. When it comes to both fish and animal protein
robata dishes in particular, free-range and sustainable is highly
recommended. For beef, eating less, and less often, is part of the
larger solution to some of the ecological challenges faced by our
planet, and sharing a steak among other dishes is achievable within
the parameters of the perfect robata meal.
At its core, robata-style eating is like tapas: dishes are served as
and when they are ready, and to be shared. It is the perfect informal
dinner party food, focusing on a few great ingredients eaten in
balance with vegetables and side dishes. It is an antidote to our
busy modern lifestyle, with its emphasis on eating together,
‘breaking bread’ with friends and family for comfort and
sustenance.
There are no restrictions in terms of beverages, but I do
recommend including a miso soup as it lines the stomach and is a
great warming start to a meal; on a very hot day a chilled tofu
agadashi will have a similar cooling effect. Guests can linger over
nibbles with either a Japanese twisted cocktail, good-quality chilled
sake, a simple Japanese beer, crisp chilled white wine or a full-
bodied not-too-sweet red – there really is no restriction. For
alcohol-free options, a yuzu cordial, green tea or mocktails are all
great.
Enjoy.
fish robata
When chefs and home cooks know their fish, this should be
applauded; the best option is MSC-certified wild fish, which
gives you the reassurance that stocks are well managed and
fishing methods assessed to be sustainable with minimal
impact on the environment. There are many smaller, well-
managed fisheries who have the know-how and skills, built
over decades, to fish without harming the bio-diversity of the
sea.
Talk to your fishmonger about seasonality to ensure you
choose species when they are at their best. I cannot
emphasize enough the pleasure of going to your local fish
market (aside from the 4am start); this is how you get to know
which fish are in season, which traders have the best quality,
when to buy and how much to pay. I have had the pleasure of
being associated with London’s famous Billingsgate Fish
Market, both as a tenant and a teacher at the superb Seafood
School, for over a decade, and I struggle to find better quality
anywhere in London.
The beauty of robata is that the world is your oyster. The
recipes should inspire and can be easily adapted to
alternative species. Throw your net wide.
Large Blue Rope Mussels with Miso
Butter
This is a very simple recipe; all it takes is great-quality mussels
and some smouldering hot coals. I dress these in miso butter
as it gives a deep umami flavour. This is the perfect sharing
dish to serve after a few starter courses.
SERVES 4 AS ONE OF 4–5 ROBATA DISHES
60g (2oz./1/4 cup) unsalted butter
40g (11/2oz.) white miso
1kg (2lb. 4oz.) blue rope mussels
1/2 bunch of spring onions (scallions), finely chopped
1/2 bunch of coriander (cilantro), finely chopped
freshly ground black pepper
Place the butter in a mixing bowl, cream it with a fork and add the miso
paste. Carry on working until it is a smooth consistency, then season with
pepper, place on a piece of cling film (plastic wrap) and make into a small
cylinder shape. Twist either end until you have an even shape, then leave in
the freezer to rest.
Start the robata grill. Clean the mussels: place all mussels in a large
colander under running water. Remove any open shells which do not close
when lightly tapped against a hard surface; these are dead and must be
discarded. Clean the rest one by one, removing any dirt or sand, and pull off
the small beard that sometimes appears along the opening of the mussel.
Place the mussels in a second colander as you progress and give them a
final rinse when done.
Pour all the mussels on to a wire rack over the robata, rotating them
occasionally; when they pop open they are cooked. Place the mussels on a
serving dish as they are ready, but keep the dish covered with a clean tea
(dish) towel as you work, just to keep them piping hot. Discard any mussels
which do not open during cooking (do not be tempted to force these open).
When they are all done, fetch the miso butter from the freezer, cut it into
fine slices and place on top of the mussels. Sprinkle with chopped spring
onions (scallions) and coriander (cilantro) and serve immediately.
Teriyaki Mackerel
Mackerel, the king of all fish in my humble opinion. Over the
years, the Japanese-style cured mackerel has become one of
my signature dishes, but equally fantastic is mackerel in a
teriyaki marinade, grilled to perfection on the robata. Only use
the freshest whole mackerel for this dish.
SERVES 4 AS MAIN DISH OF 4–5 ROBATA DISHES
31/2 tbsp soy sauce, plus extra for dipping
1 tbsp finely grated fresh ginger
2 tbsp yuzu juice (or pink grapefruit juice)
2 tbsp brown muscovado sugar
2 whole mackerel or 4 medium-sized fillets
2 tbsp potato flour
10cm (4in.) piece of mooli (daikon)
shichimi chilli powder
2 tbsp wasabi powder
1/2 pink grapefruit
vegetable oil
Place the soy, 11/2 tablespoons of water, ginger, yuzu juice and sugar in a
small bowl, then whisk rigorously to ensure all the ingredients are
combined. Set the marinade aside.
Ask your fishmonger to prepare your mackerel fillets on the day of cooking,
or ideally follow the tutorial on my website:
sillabjerrum.com/mackereltutorial. Pin-bone the mackerel and turn the fillet
skin side up. Cut inserts across each fillet about 5mm ( 1/5in.) apart. Place
the mackerel skin side up in a shallow tray, pour over the marinade and
leave for 20 minutes in the fridge.
http://sillabjerrum.com/mackereltutorial
Start the robata grill. Remove the mackerel from the marinade and set aside
in the fridge. Pour the marinade into a small saucepan and heat gently.
Dilute the potato flour in a little water and add a little at a time to the
marinade until it thickens to a smooth, silky consistency.
Prepare the garnish: peel the mooli (daikon) and grate on the finest setting
of a grater, then squeeze hard to get rid of the liquid and divide into four
portions. Shape into little round balls and sprinkle with the chilli powder.
Mix the wasabi powder with a little water and shape into four little balls.
Cut the grapefruitinto eight wedges.
Place a wire rack over the robata and brush the mackerel and wire rack with
a little oil, then place the fish flesh side down and press flat with a spatula.
Grill for a few minutes until it takes on colour, then brush the skin side with
more oil and turn the fillets to fry the skin side for another few minutes until
light golden. Brush generously with sauce, rotate and repeat a few times.
Place the mackerel on a large serving dish, garnish with the mooli, wasabi
and pink grapefruit wedges. Serve with soy sauce as a dipping sauce on the
side.
Salmon Tataki in Nori Crust
Tataki is sashimi that has been seared on the outside and is
therefore still raw in the middle. Here, it is served on a bed of
crunchy mooli (daikon) with a ponzu dipping sauce.
SERVES 4 AS ONE OF 4–5 ROBATA DISHES
100ml (scant 1/2 cup) soy sauce
2 tbsp mirin
2 tbsp yuzu juice (or lemon juice)
2 tbsp honey
5 x 5cm (2 x 2in.) piece of kombu
1/2 medium-sized mooli (daikon)
2 sheets of nori
400g (14oz.) salmon loin (the thicker end of one salmon fillet)
olive oil
coriander (cilantro) cress (optional)
Make the ponzu dipping sauce: add soy, mirin, yuzu and honey to a small
saucepan and heat through gently. Wipe the kombu clean with a damp cloth,
add to the dipping sauce and leave to simmer for 5 minutes to infuse.
Decant the ponzu into a plastic container, cover and leave in the fridge to
infuse further.
Peel the mooli (daikon) and grate along the length on the finest setting of a
Japanese mandoline. Place in a mixing bowl, add a handful of ice cubes and
top up with cold water to cover the mooli (daikon) fully.
Toast the nori in a dry frying pan (skillet) for a few minutes until crisp.
Place in a small blender or food processor, or use a pestle and mortar, and
pulverize the nori then spread out in a shallow tray.
Start the robata grill. Brush the salmon with oil and grill for 30 seconds to 1
minute on all its four sides, holding on to the loin with a set of tongs. Once
seared, place the salmon in the tray with the nori dust and roll until fully
covered, then place on a chopping board and leave to rest for 5 minutes.
Drain the mooli (daikon) salad and place on a long rectangular plate. With a
sharp sashimi knife, cut the salmon fillet into bite-sized pieces, place on top
of the mooli salad and sprinkle with coriander (cilantro) cress, if desired.
Serve with the ponzu dipping sauce.
Shiso-Marinated Giant Prawns
(Shrimp)
Shiso (or oba) leaves are Japanese leaves used in temaki rolls,
sashimi selections and cocktails. They have an aniseed flavour
to them, and are very delicate with a frilly mouth-feel, almost
like a large, thin mint leaf. These are commonly available at
Asian supermarkets or good-quality grocery stores that carry a
selection of micro cresses. Here the prawns (shrimp) are
served with a warm Sriracha chilli tomato salsa for additional
punch.
SERVES 4 | MAKES 12
4 spring onions (scallions)
100ml (scant 1/2 cup) olive oil
3 cloves of garlic
1 lemon
1 pack of shiso leaves (about 12)
6 large king prawns (shrimp)
3 large heirloom or sun-ripe tomatoes
2 tbsp mirin
1 tbsp soy sauce
2 tbsp Sriracha chilli sauce
1 tbsp toasted mixed sesame seeds
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
First make the marinade. Peel, clean and remove the top half of the spring
onions (scallions) and chop into fine rings, then add to a mixing bowl with
the olive oil. Peel two cloves of garlic and slice thinly. Cut the lemon into
eight pieces, squeeze and add both juice and the lemon to the mixing bowl.
Take eight shiso leaves, roll into a tight cylinder shape, cut finely and add to
the marinade.
Now prepare the prawns (shrimp). Place a prawn (shrimp) on the chopping
board and stretch out its body, belly side down. Starting from the head, cut
the prawn (shrimp) straight down along the middle into equal-sized halves.
Along the back of one of the halved prawns (shrimp) the intestinal tract will
be visible; gently remove it with the tip of a knife and discard. Repeat with
the remainder of the prawns (shrimp). Place the prawns (shrimp) in a large
zip-lock bag, pour in the marinade and massage into the flesh. Align the
prawns (shrimp) inside the bag and fold the bag over to get rid of as much
air as possible. Zip the bag and leave to marinate in the fridge for 1 hour.
While the prawns (shrimp) are marinating, make the salsa. Halve the
tomatoes and scoop out the seeds. Cut into quarters and then into tiny little
squares and add to a mixing bowl. Peel and finely chop the remaining clove
of garlic and add to the bowl with the mirin, soy, Sriracha and sesame
seeds. Taste and season with salt and pepper, then set aside.
Start the robata grill. Remove the prawns (shrimp) from the marinade and
place flesh side down on the grill for a few minutes, then turn and cook in
the shell for another few minutes. Pour in a little of the leftover marinade to
poach and keep the prawns (shrimp) moist. Turn the prawns (shrimp) for a
matter of seconds, then take off the grill to avoid overcooking.
Place a prawn (shrimp) on a chopping board, remove the flesh from the
shell and cut into four bite-sized pieces, then place back into the shell.
Repeat with the remainder and place on a serving dish. Spoon the salsa over
the prawn (shrimp) pieces and serve.
◁ Sea Bream Fillet with Summer
Pickles of Lemon and Courgette
(Zucchini)
Sea bream is a relatively inexpensive fish, but hugely
overlooked, which is a shame as it lends itself very well to
Asian-style dishes, either fried or grilled. The fish I use is wild-
caught in the north European seas, or farmed, mainly in
Greece, where it is known as black gilthead bream.
The flesh is not dissimilar to bass, but has a deeper flavour
and firmer texture, so is good with complex flavours. Here, it is
served with spring pickles of yellow courgette (zucchini) and
Sicilian lemon, and a jalapeño wakame salsa. The pickles will
benefit from at least day three days’ pickling, and will keep for
up to a month in a sterilized jar kept in a cool place. These
pickles are inspired by my own mother’s teaching, so have a
more Nordic leaning, using vinegar as the pickling medium as
opposed to the traditional Japanese technique of salt, dashi
and/or fish sauce.
SERVES 4
2 sea bream, scaled and gutted
1 knob of fresh ginger
100ml (scant 1/2 cup) olive oil
2 tbsp soy sauce
salt
FOR THE WAKAME SALSA
10g (1/3oz.) dried wakame seaweed
1 small green courgette (zucchini)
1/2 cucumber
2 fresh jalapeño chillies, deseeded and finely chopped
1 small clove of garlic, finely chopped
2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1 tbsp kimchi or Sriracha chilli sauce
FOR THE SUMMER PICKLES
1 tsp coriander seeds
1 tsp mustard seeds
300–400ml (11/4–13/4 cups) sushi vinegar
1 tsp peppercorns
1 large red chilli
100g (31/2oz./1/2 cup) caster (superfine) sugar
4 sprigs of lemon thyme
1 yellow courgette (zucchini)
1 Sicilian or unwaxed lemon
You will need: large sterilized jar for the pickles (shown here)
First make the pickles. Toast the coriander and mustard seeds in a saucepan
for a few minutes until the aromas are released. Add the vinegar,
peppercorns, chilli, sugar and lemon thyme and stir for a few minutes until
the sugar is dissolved. Remove from the heat and leave to cool.
Wash the yellow courgette (zucchini), cut into quarters lengthways and
remove the seeds. Cut each quarter into 1cm (1/2in.) pieces and place in the
jar. Peel the lemon with a peeler (retain the peel for another recipe) and
remove as much of the pith as possible without bruising the flesh. Cut the
lemon into very thin slices. Slide these along the sides of the pickling jar.
When the pickling liquid is cooled, pour into the jar, seal the lid and leave
for at least 3 days in a dry, cool place.
On the day of cooking, scale the sea bream, then slit open the fish and
remove the stomach sac and other innards. Rinse the fish under the cold tap
and check all scales are removed; these tend to be very large on this fish.
Dry the fish in kitchen (paper) towel andscore each with three slits about
5mm (1/5in.)deep, allowing the marinade to penetrate the flesh.
Rub the ginger clean under a cold tap and dry on kitchen (paper) towel.
Slice into thin slices, place in a shallow tray and pour in the oil and soy
sauce. Place the sea bream in to marinate. Place in the fridge for 15
minutes, then turn the fish and marinate for a further 15 minutes.
Start the robata grill. Meanwhile, make the wakame salsa. Place the
wakame in a large container of ice-cold water; I like to use a 1:10 ratio of
wakame to water to ensure it blooms as much as possible. Wash the
courgette (zucchini) and cut into tiny cubes. Repeat with the cucumber,
removing the seeds as well. Place the courgette (zucchini), cucumber,
chillies and garlic in a bowl with the olive oil and chilli sauce, and season
with salt. When the wakame is fully bloomed, drain, chop finely and add to
the salsa.
Grill the sea bream on an oiled wire rack over the robata for 3–4 minutes on
each side, turning four times. Use a fish slice or spatula to carefully lift off
the wire rack when turning, so as not to tear the skin. Place the fish on a
plate with the salsa alongside and serve with a helping of seasonal summer
pickles on the side and the Summer Salad of Okra, Tomatoes and Toasted
Quinoa.
◁ Lemon Sole with Sancho Pepper
and Squash Kimchi
In this recipe I am using lemon sole, as the delicate white
flesh cooks easily on the robata. Here, it’s served with Sancho,
a pepper harvested from the Japanese prickly ash; Sancho
has a distinctive lemony flavour similar to yuzu, perfect for
grilled fish.
SERVES 4 AS MAIN DISH OF 4–5 ROBATA DISHES
1 white scallop squash (or any soft-skin variety of squash)
4 spring onions (scallions)
50g (2oz.) flaky sea salt
31/2 tbsp shop-bought kimchi marinade
1 lemon sole, gutted
11/2 tbsp good-quality olive oil
vegetable oil
Sancho pepper
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Sake-Mirin Spray
The kimchi pickles take up to 4 hours to pickle and can be made one day in
advance. Wash the squash, cut it in half and deseed. Cut it into thin half-
moon shaped slices and place in a mixing bowl. Clean the spring onions
(scallions), removing the first outer layer, and trim either end, then cut into
four equal pieces and cut each piece in half again, then add to the mixing
bowl and spend a few minutes rubbing the sea salt into the vegetables.
Place a plate on top of the squash and weigh it down with something heavy.
Leave to cure for 3 hours, but return to it every 30 minutes to turn; after 3
hours the liquid should have run out of the squash and be in the base of the
bowl. Drain in a colander and taste the vegetables. They should be tender,
but not too salty. If they’re very salty, rinse in cold water if needed. Mix in
the kimchi marinade and place in an airtight container; these will last for up
to a week in the fridge.
Start the robata grill. Ideally, serve this dish later in the meal, as the coals
should not be too hot and are best after 1 hour, or the fish will cook too fast.
On the darker skin side, slit the fish 4–5 times, about 5mm (1/5in.) deep.
Rub the fish in the olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Place a wire
rack over the robata and brush one half of the rack with vegetable oil, then
place the lemon sole white side down. Grill for 4–5 minutes until it starts
taking on colour. Brush the other part of the wire rack with vegetable oil
and brush the skin of the lemon sole an additional time too, then using a
large spatula, flick over the fish, ready to grill the skin side, using the sake-
mirin spray to control the flames. Grill the skin side for 8–10 minutes, until
the flesh is cooked to the core; a skewer inserted into the centre of the fish
will be hot to the touch when the fish is cooked through. Gently run the
spatula in between the wire rack and the fish, lifting the fish off the robata
carefully so as not to tear the crispy skin.
Transfer to a large serving dish, sprinkle with Sancho pepper and serve with
kimchi pickles and additional pickles such as the Kappa Pickles and Pickled
Baby Turnips.
◁ Chilean Sea Bass with Choy Sum
and Onion Relish
Chilean sea bass, also known as a Patagonian toothfish, is a
white flaky fish in the cod family. It is a large, slow-growing,
deep-swimming fish that mostly inhabits the southern Pacific
and Antarctica. Not an inexpensive fish, but a real treat and
now MSC-certified. Chilean sea bass is found in the fish
counter at most good fishmongers.
SERVES 4 AS MAIN DISH OF 4–5 ROBATA DISHES
1 medium-ripe mango
1kg (2lb. 4oz.) red onion, finely chopped
2 tbsp kombu dashi
1 tbsp red wine vinegar
4 x 170g (6oz.) Chilean sea bass steaks, skin on
olive oil
large bunch of choy sum
Sake-Mirin Spray
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Preheat the oven to 120°C (250°F/Gas mark 1/2) and line a baking tray with
a silicone sheet. Peel the mango, then continue to peel the flesh, making
strips of mango. Place the strips a few centimetres apart on the baking tray,
then put the tray in the oven and leave for 2–3 hours, checking the mango
every 20 minutes.
Make the onion relish. Place the onion in a sauté pan with the kombu dashi,
red wine vinegar and 300ml (11/4 cups) of water, and leave to simmer over
a low heat for 30 minutes, until the onions are soft and almost disintegrated.
When the relish and mango garnish are ready, start the robata grill.
Pin-bone the Chilean sea bass steaks, rub in a little olive oil, season with
salt and pepper, then set aside. Trim the ends of the choy sum, remove and
discard any bruised leaves, then cut the choy sum in half, keeping both
leaves and stalks. Set up a steamer and steam for a few minutes, then turn
the steamer off and leave the choy sum inside to keep warm.
When the coals are ready, place a wire rack over the robata and place a
small saucepan of red onion relish on the heat. Oil the wire rack and grill
the sea bass for 8–12 minutes, carefully flipping over midway. Use the
sake-mirin spray to calm the flames and keep the fish moist. To ensure the
Chilean sea bass is cooked through before removing from the heat, insert a
fine metal skewer into the middle of the fish. If the tip of the skewer is hot,
the fish is cooked through.
When the fish is ready, place a little onion relish on four plates, some choy
sum on top, followed by the sea bass, and garnish with the mango chips.
Miso-cured Black Cod, Atlantic Cod
and Salmon
Miso black cod is a true triumph. Black cod is also known as
sablefish and very different to the cod we know. It is packed
with omega 3 oils, and not dissimilar to halibut in its fat
content, but much more mellow in its flavour. Due to its high
fat content it is not an easy fish to cook, and the miso
marinade really ties the flaky flesh together. I recommend a
marinating time of around 24 to 36 hours, which gives great
results. Black cod is available frozen in specialist stores; it is
delicious and a great culinary experience without being too
complicated to do at home. It is not commonly available, but
a good fishmonger should be able to source black cod if
ordered in advance. That said, I do think the same technique
works very well with other fatty fish, and I have included
Atlantic cod and salmon here, which are slightly less fatty and
firmer in the flesh, so the miso curing time can be reduced
further to 18–24 hours.
For the miso marinade, the sugar, sake and mirin are added
to enhance its potency. If a sweet white miso were used
instead there would be no need for the additional
ingredients, but it would also be very expensive, so adding the
other ingredients to the miso marinade is common.
SERVES 4 AS MAIN DISH OF 4–5 ROBATA DISHES
400g (14oz.) yellow miso
100g (31/2oz./1/2 cup) caster (superfine) sugar
31/2 tbsp mirin
31/2 tbsp sake
4 x 150g (5oz.) fillets of black cod, salmon or Atlantic cod
sunflower oil
Place the miso, sugar, mirin and sake in a saucepan and melt over a gentle
heat. Using a whisk, ensure that the miso does not burn on the base or sides
ofthe pan. When all the ingredients are fully incorporated, pour into a
shallow dish and leave to cool for 10 minutes.
Place the fish fillets in the miso paste, and turn and rub in the marinade to
ensure they are fully covered. Cover the tray with cling film (plastic wrap)
and leave to cure for 18–24 hours for Atlantic cod and salmon, and 24–36
hours for black cod. It is recommended to turn the fillets 2–3 times in the
marinade.
On the day of cooking, start the robata grill. Remove the fish from the
fridge and use your hands to remove most of the marinade, then with a
damp disposable cloth, wipe off the last of the marinade. It is important that
no residue of the marinade is left on the fish as it will cause the fish to
poach instead of grilling.
Brush the skin side with oil and place on a wire rack on the robata, skin side
down. Leave to grill for a few minutes until starting to crisp. Turn the fish,
brushing the skin with oil, and leave until just cooked through, about 8–10
minutes depending on the intensity of the robata. Use a metal skewer to
check if the fish is cooked through: a skewer inserted into the centre of the
fish will be hot to the touch when the fish is cooked through.
◁ Smoked and Robata’ed Salmon
Belly
Responsibly farmed or wild salmon is a precious commodity
and therefore best enjoyed with the mantra of nose to tail
eating. Buy whole salmon and use all parts – bones and head
for a light salmon stock base for miso, the descaled skins as
crispy shards in salads, and so on. It is easy to end up with a
surplus of salmon belly, so I am smoking this part of the
salmon, adding a mellow flavour of green tea and then
crisping up the skin on the robata grill.
SERVES 4 AS ONE OF 4–5 ROBATA DISHES
2 tbsp genmai tea leaves
2 tbsp demerara (raw brown) sugar
2 tbsp brown rice
4 x 150g (5oz.) pieces of salmon belly
300g (101/2oz./11/2 cups) Japanese rice
2 spring onions (scallions)
30g (1oz.) Japanese pickled ginger
2 tbsp mixed sesame seeds
11/2 tbsp Teriyaki Sauce
vegetable oil
Combine the genmai tea leaves, demerara (raw brown) sugar and brown
rice and place in the base of a wok. Place four loose chopsticks and a sushi
rolling mat inside the wok, well above the rice mixture, put the salmon
bellies on top and cover with tin foil. Smoke the salmon belly for 12–14
minutes under the foil lid, then gently transfer to a chopping board to cool a
little.
Wash the rice four times under cold water, drain, and leave to rest for 10
minutes. Place the rice in a saucepan with about 10 per cent more water
than rice. Bring the rice to the boil, then allow to simmer for 15 minutes
until all the water is absorbed, and leave to rest for 10 minutes in the pan.
Alternatively, use a rice cooker.
Start the robata grill. Prepare the garnish for the Japanese rice: cut the
spring onions (scallions) in fine rings, rinse in water and leave to drain for a
few minutes in a sieve. Finely chop the pickled ginger and combine with
the sesame seeds and spring onions (scallions) in a bowl.
Place a wire rack on the robata and oil with a little vegetable oil. Place the
salmon belly skin side down and grill for a few minutes until the skin has
crisped up. Divide the rice between four bowls, sprinkle over the seed and
ginger mixture, place the salmon belly on top and drizzle with teriyaki
sauce.
◁ Cured and Robata’ed Sea Trout
Sea trout is an excellent alternative to salmon. It has a
beautiful deep pink colour and fine slim fat lines for a firm
fish. In this recipe it is cured for only a few hours for a
gravadlax effect, and can be flavoured with any fresh herbs.
The grilling creates a caramelized seared edge.
SERVES 4
2 tbsp sake
1/2 side of wild sea trout (the wider side closest to the head), about 800–900g (1lb.
12oz.–2lb.)
1 tsp fennel seeds
1 tsp coriander seeds
140g (5oz./2/3 cup) caster (superfine) sugar
70g (21/2oz.) coarse sea salt
bunch of fresh herbs, such as mint or shiso leaves
vegetable oil
Sake-Mirin Spray
You will need: 8 wooden skewers, soaked for 30 minutes in cold water
Pour the sake into a shallow tray. With a pointy knife, pierce the flesh side
of the sea trout about eight times, then place the fish flesh side down in the
tray and leave to marinate for 20 minutes at room temperature.
Meanwhile, toast the fennel and coriander seeds in a dry pan until their
aroma is released, then add to a pestle and mortar and crack the seeds. Add
the sugar and salt and combine with the toasted spices.
Remove the sea trout from the sake marinade and place on a piece of
baking parchment, flesh side up. Press the sugar cure on to the flesh and top
with chopped fresh herbs. Ensure the flesh is evenly and fully covered, then
wrap the fillet tightly in the paper, ensuring all folds are neat and even.
Wrap in cling film (plastic wrap) and place in a shallow tray in the fridge
and weigh down with a heavy milk carton or similar for 3–5 hours.
On the day of cooking, start the robata grill. Unwrap the sea trout and
discard the wrapping and residue sugar mix. Ensure that all of the curing
mixture is removed, but avoid washing the fish. Skin the fillet and discard.
Brush the sea trout with a little oil and grill over the robata pit for a few
minutes until the skin is crisp and the fish is lightly cooked, about 4 minutes
on each side. Cook the sea trout later in a robata setting, when the coals are
not at the height of their heat. Due to the sugar and alcohol which have
penetrated the flesh during the short cure, you will need to work very fast so
as not to burn the fish, aiming for a grilled outside but the fish on the inside
just heated through. Control the flames with a little sake-mirin spray. Serve
with Japanese Slaw with Yuzu Vinaigrette and Crispy Balsamic Onigiri.
◁ Salmon Smoked on Yuzu Leaves
This recipe uses the technique of packing a whole salmon
with yuzu, fresh herbs and olive oil, wrapping it in a
newspaper (avoiding any coloured ink) and tying it tightly. The
trick is then to submerge the whole wrap in water until
soaked through, then put it over direct heat on a barbecue,
and as the newspaper dries and burns, the fish inside will
partially poach and partially smoke, giving a very light and
delicate result. However, since we are grilling on the robata
and the heat is more intense than a normal barbecue, I have
altered the recipe slightly to allow for more soaking time.
Yuzu is such a precious fruit, and the skin, rind and juice all
find their way into Japanese cuisine. Yuzu leaves may not be
easy to get hold of, but using a combination of lemongrass
and lime leaves also creates a stunning result.
SERVES 4 AS MAIN DISH OF 4–5 ROBATA DISHES
1/2 side of salmon (the wider end near the head), about 1kg (2lb. 4oz.)
40 yuzu leaves (alternatively, use 20 lime leaves and 3 stalks of bashed lemongrass)
3 tbsp yuzu juice
grated zest of 2 yuzu (or use 1 organic pink grapefruit)
good-quality olive oil
Sake-Mirin Spray
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Place the salmon skin side down, trimming off the tail end for other dishes.
Cut the salmon into two equal-length blocks. One will be slightly wider
than the other, but that is fine as long as you keep this one on the bottom
when putting the recipe together.
Rub the flesh side of each piece well in olive oil, and season with salt and
pepper. Take half the leaves and spread out into a rectangle on the
newspaper so the large side of the salmon just fits on top. Place the larger
piece of salmon on the leaves, flesh side up. Pour half the yuzu juice on to
the flesh, rubbing the juice into the flesh so it does not run off the fillet. Add
the yuzu zest, season again with salt and pepper, and pour over the
remainder of the yuzu juice, then place the other salmon fillet on top, flesh
side down so flesh sits on flesh. Wrap the newspaper tightly around the
salmon fillets, like a perfectly wrapped Christmas present. Rest the wrap on
its fold and then tie with cooking string. Now soak the whole pack in water
while starting the robata grill, about 20–30minutes.
Remove the salmon from its water and leave to drain on a draining board.
Place a wire rack over the coals and grill over a medium direct heat;
because the newspaper is damp it should not catch fire, however if the
paper dries and start burning, control it with the sake-mirin spray. The
salmon will essentially smoke inside the paper, and I recommend doing this
dish at the end of the robata session as the coals start calming down. Cook
for approximately 20–25 minutes; this is a little longer than the usual
robata-style grilling, as the heat needs to penetrate the wrap. Serve with
Grilled Onigiri with Furikake and Seaweed Salad with Smooth Wasabi
Dashi Dressing.
◁ Heavenly Salmon 5 Ways
Salmon is one of the most popular fish across the Western
world when making Japanese food; it may not be that
common in Japan, but outside its borders the salmon is king.
In this show-stopper recipe it is given the finest robata
treatment, with five different incarnations of the fish, using
salmon skin, salmon ikura, salmon negishio, salmon tskune
and salmon teriyaki.
SERVES 4 AS MAIN DISH OF 4–5 ROBATA DISHES
skin of 1/2 fillet of salmon
300g (101/2oz./11/2 cups) Japanese rice
4 small salmon steaks (for negishio)
4 salmon fillets (for teriyaki)
100g (31/2oz.) salmon offcuts
1 spring onion (scallion), finely chopped
1/4 tsp garlic powder
1 tsp potato flour
1/2 tsp sesame oil
1/2 cucumber
1 red chilli
200ml (3/4 cup) sushi vinegar
1 portion Negishio Dressing
4 shiso leaves
30g (1oz.) salmon eggs (ikura)
1/2 piece of nori
olive oil
FOR THE TERIYAKI SAUCE
90ml (6 tbsp) soy sauce
90ml (6 tbsp) mirin
90ml (6 tbsp) sake
50ml (31/2 tbsp) local honey
2 tbsp potato flour
Preheat the oven to 160°C/325°F/Gas Mark 3. Rinse the salmon skin in
water, place outer skin side up on a baking tray lined with a silicone baking
sheet or baking parchment, and cook in the oven for 40–50 minutes, until
crisp. Wash the rice four times in cold running water and leave to rest for 20
minutes. Cook the rice in a saucepan with about 10 per cent more water
than rice, for 17 minutes. Alternatively, cook the rice in a rice cooker. Set
aside.
For the teriyaki sauce, place the soy sauce, mirin, sake and honey in a small
saucepan and warm gently over a medium heat. Just before it reaches
boiling point, combine the potato flour with a little cold water and gradually
add to the pan to thicken the sauce. You may not need all the potato flour.
Set aside.
Prepare the salmon for the negishio and teriyaki (see here, and my website
for guidance: sillabjerrum.com). Now make the salmon tsukune. Use any
offcuts from preparing the negishio and teriyaki pieces of salmon. Finely
chop the salmon, add to a bowl with the spring onions (scallions), garlic
powder, potato flour and sesame oil. Leave to rest in the fridge for 10
minutes to firm up, then mould into four equal-sized balls and shape into
round discs. Skewer each with two skewers.
Start the robata grill. Slice the cucumber on the finest setting of a Japanese
mandoline. Add to a bowl with the chilli and sushi vinegar, and leave to
pickle. When the robata is ready, grill the pieces of salmon for the negishio,
teriyaki and tskune on an oiled wire rack. Leave for a few minutes to take
on colour, then turn to grill for a further few minutes on the other side. Dip
and rotate the salmon teriyaki in the teriyaki sauce and return to the grill for
a few seconds to caramelize. Do the same with the tskune, basting it in the
teriyaki sauce. Dress the salmon negishio in the negishio dressing.
Now it is time to assemble. Place a little rice in the base of four individual
shallow serving bowls. Add a portion of cucumber pickle, lean a shiso leaf
http://sillabjerrum.com/
against the cucumber pickle and spoon some salmon eggs alongside. Place
one piece of tsukune, teriyaki and negishio in each bowl. Drizzle any
remaining sauce over the negishio and teriyaki salmon, and garnish with
shards of salmon skin and nori.
◁ Tuna Tataki with Salsa Verde
A classic tataki dish using yellowfin tuna loin. Tuna is another
complicated matter, and I personally took the ethical decision
not to eat or serve bluefin tuna back in the late 1990s when it
became very apparent what an enormous pressure this
mighty fish had been under for at least four decades. Bluefin
tuna is the king of fish in Japanese food, in particular for sushi
and sashimi, famed for its smooth texture and the fatty part
named toro. However, wild stock is on the brink of collapse
and currently the outlook is grim. The best alternative is
yellowfin from the Eastern Pacific, where stock is healthy and
fishing is well managed and monitored.
To me, yellowfin tuna is equally tasty and actually easier to
work with as it comes in a firm, even loin not dissimilar to a
good piece of beef. I recommend eating tuna in moderation,
but really go to town when you do: source the finest quality
from the fish market or a reputable fishmonger.
SERVES 4–6 AS MAIN DISH OF 4–5 ROBATA DISHES
700–800g (1lb. 9oz.–1lb. 12oz.) tuna loin, middle cut
2g (1/2 tsp) dried wakame seaweed
1 tsp wasabi powder
1/2 bunch flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
1/2 clove of garlic, finely chopped
1 tsp Dijon mustard
2 tbsp mirin
40g (11/2oz./1/4 cup) drained capers, finely chopped
150ml (2/3 cup) extra-virgin olive oil, plus a little extra to coat the fish
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Prepare the tuna loin on a chopping board: cut away the sinew part of the
loin, which constitutes the belly flap on a yellowfin tuna (store this in the
fridge and scrape out the tuna with a spoon when needed, to use in another
recipe). Divide the loin left on the chopping board into rectangular logs
about 2.5cm (1in.) in diameter, getting 4–6 blocks out of the loin. Pour a
little olive oil into a shallow tray and season with salt and pepper. Roll the
loins in the oil, ensuring they are well coated, and set aside in the fridge,
covered.
Now make the salsa verde. Dilute the wakame in 500ml (2 cups) cold water
and leave to bloom for 10 minutes. Mix the wasabi powder with a little
water to make a paste. In a mixing bowl, combine the parsley, garlic,
wasabi paste, mustard, mirin, capers and olive oil. Drain and chop the
wakame and add to the bowl, then set aside.
Start the robata grill. When it is ready, grill the tuna on a wire rack for less
than a minute on each side, so it is evenly seared. With a very sharp cook’s
knife or sashimi knife, slice the tuna in 5mm (1/5in.) thick slices, starting
from the heel of the knife and pulling the knife towards yourself in one
even movement, to avoid sawing through the protein and tearing the flesh.
Arrange the tuna tataki slices along the length of the serving dish,
overlapping one another. Spoon a little salsa verde on top and serve with
Green Beans and Sugar Snap Peas with Mustard Miso.
◁ Giant Scallop Sake Poached in Shell
This is such a simple recipe and works fantastically well with
giant hand-dived king scallops, but if these are not available,
good-quality large, hand-dived scallops are the perfect
substitute.
SERVES 4 AS ONE OF 4–5 ROBATA DISHES
4 king scallops, live and in shell
1 tbsp salted butter
1 shallot, finely chopped
1 small clove of garlic, finely chopped
2 tbsp sake
2 tsp mirin
2 tsp light soy sauce
few sprigs of chives
Insert a shucking or filleting knife into the hinge of the scallop and twist the
knife a few times until the two shells separate slightly. Run the knife along
the flat shell to detach the scallop and remove this shell. Now gently cut
between the scallop meat and the shell to detach the scallop from the curvy
shell. Remove and discard the ‘frilly’ membrane and stomach. Gently clean
the scallop and orange coral under cold running water; be very sparing with
the water to avoid washing away the sweetness of the scallop, while still
ensuring these are cleaned. Set the scallops aside. Discard the flat shells and
clean the curved shells.
Start the robata grill. Place the clean shell on the robata when ready, thengently melt a little butter in each. Add a quarter of the shallot and garlic to
each. Fry for approximately 1 minute, then add the scallop and turn a few
times to take on colour. Add a little sake and mirin to each and simmer until
just cooked through. Finish with soy sauce and cook for a further 1 minute.
Place the scallops on a serving dish and garnish with chives.
◁ Seared Scallops on Quinoa Brown
Seeded Rice
Serving this dish in individual bowls works best and is a good
way to ensure all guests are ‘equally’ fed. The essence of
robata is of course to serve dishes tapas-style and everybody
tuck in to share, however sometimes it works really well
having at least one course served individually. In this recipe, I
have used a mixture of complex carbohydrates for the base,
but it can also be served with plain white Japanese rice.
SERVES 4 AS MAIN DISH OF 4–5 ROBATA DISHES
100g (31/2oz./1/2 cup) red quinoa
100g (31/2oz./1/2 cup) basmati brown rice
100g (31/2oz./2/3 cup) toasted buckwheat
20 medium hand-dived fresh scallops, in shell or shucked
300g (101/2oz.) steamed broccoli
20g (3/4oz.) chia seeds (white, black or both)
20g (3/4oz.) mixed sesame seeds
4 tbsp soy sauce
1 small knob of fresh ginger, peeled and grated
1 clove of garlic, peeled and grated
30g (1oz./11/2 tbsp) butter
100ml (scant 1/2 cup) Teriyaki Sauce
100g (31/2oz.) pea shoots or coriander (cilantro) micro cress
1 red chilli, cut into thin slices on the diagonal, seeds discarded
olive oil
Sake-Mirin Spray
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Mix the three grains together and rinse three times under cold running
water, then leave to rest for 10 minutes. Cook the grains in double the
amount of water (2:1), by first bringing to the boil and then leaving to
simmer over a low heat for 35–40 minutes. When all the water is absorbed
and the grains nice and fluffy, leave to rest for 20 minutes, covered.
If you bought the scallops in their shells, you need to shuck these. Insert a
shucking or filleting knife into the hinge and twist the knife a few times
until the shells separate slightly. Run the knife along the flat shell to detach
the scallop and remove this shell. Gently cut between the scallop meat and
the shell to detach the scallop from the curvy shell. Remove and discard the
‘frilly’ membrane and stomach. Clean the scallop and orange coral under
running water; be very sparse with the water to avoid washing away the
sweetness of the scallop, but ensure they are cleaned. Place the scallops and
corals on a piece of kitchen (paper) towel.
Start the robata grill. Wash the broccoli in cold water, drain, add to a mixing
bowl and dress in olive oil. Mix the grains with the chia and sesame seeds
and season with salt and pepper. Divide the grains between four bowls and
cover to keep warm. For the dressing, make a soy butter. Pour the soy sauce
into a small saucepan, add the ginger, garlic and butter and melt over a
gentle heat.
Place a wire rack over the robata, brush with oil and start grilling the
broccoli, rotating every few minutes until al dente and slightly charred.
Move the broccoli to the side of the robata to keep hot. Now grill the
scallops and corals, turning every few minutes and spraying intermittently
with the sake spray. The scallops only need a few minutes to sear on the
outside, literally until just warmed through and still translucent on the
inside. Toss the cooked scallops in the teriyaki sauce, then place the
scallops and broccoli on top of the grains, drizzle with the soy butter, top
with pea shoots or micro cress and a few slices of chilli, and serve.
◁ Lobster with Yuzu Drizzle
This dish is all about simplicity: grilled lobster with a delicious
yuzu drizzle, similar to a loose hollandaise sauce. Use local
lobster from a well-managed fishery to avoid food miles on
this mighty crustacean.
SERVES 4 AS ONE OF 4–5 ROBATA DISHES
2 lobsters, approximately 700g (1lb. 9oz.) each
1 tbsp olive oil
120g (41/4oz/1/2 cup) unsalted butter
2 egg yolks
3 tbsp yuzu juice
handful of small mint leaves, finely chopped
handful of pea shoots or pea shoot cress
2 tbsp mixed sesame seeds
zest of 1 unwaxed lemon, sliced julienne-style
salt and freshly ground black and white pepper
Start the robata grill. With a large cook’s knife in one hand, use the other
hand to place the lobsters on a chopping board, belly side down, and stretch
out. Cut the lobster into two equal halves from the top of the head to the
tail. Brush the flesh inside with olive oil and season with salt and black
pepper. Set aside while making the yuzu drizzle.
Melt the butter in a small saucepan. In a separate small saucepan, bring
some water to a simmer and place a heatproof bowl on top. Place the egg
yolks and yuzu in a food processor and process to a foamy consistency, then
gently add the melted butter and process to make a smooth emulsion. Pour
the sauce into the bowl over the pan of water and whisk until light and
fluffy, ensuring the eggs do not congeal. Add the mint leaves and season
with salt and white pepper to taste.
Place a wire rack on the robata, brush with oil and grill the lobsters until
cooked and tender. Transfer to a serving plate with the yuzu drizzle
alongside the lobster. Top with pea shoots and sprinkle with sesame seeds
and lemon zest.
◁ Soft-Shell Crab on Crab Rice
Most soft-shell crabs are eaten breaded and shallow-fried,
particularly in the USA, or in the Japanese tradition they’re
dipped in tempura batter or cornflour (cornstarch) and deep-
fried. However, these are absolutely fantastic on the robata
too, and here they’re served on a crab-flavoured rice. In the
UK, Devon crab is my preference; it is sweet and succulent
during the summer season. Ideally, use the best-quality crab
from the coastal areas nearest to where you live, or source it
from a good fishmonger or fish market.
SERVES 4–6 AS ONE OF 4–5 ROBATA DISHES
8 large soft-shell crabs
300g (101/2oz./11/2 cups) round-grain Japanese sushi rice
1/3 cucumber, halved lengthways, deseeded and chopped into small cubes
100ml (scant 1/2 cup) sushi vinegar
50g (2oz.) edamame beans
200g (7oz.) hand-picked crab meat
1/2 bunch of fresh dill, stalks removed, finely chopped
2 tbsp mixed sesame seeds
2 tsp yuzu juice or juice of 1/2 lemon
2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for brushing
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Sake-Mirin Spray
Ensure the soft-shell crab are defrosted; if not, keep them in their individual
wraps under a running tap until defrosted.
Wash the sushi rice 6–8 times until the water runs clear. Leave to rest for 30
minutes, then place in a saucepan and add water – about 10 per cent more
water than rice – bring to the boil and leave to simmer over a low heat for
17 minutes. Remove from the heat and leave to rest for 15 minutes.
Alternatively, prepare the rice in a rice cooker. When the rice is ready,
decant it into a mixing bowl to cool.
Remove the crabs from their plastic wraps ready for cleaning. They have a
soft, thin shell across their body: gently lift this from the side and rinse the
main body, removing any light gunk beneath its skin. Be careful not to
detach the shell. Repeat on the other side and with the remainder of the
crabs. Line a tray with kitchen (paper) towel and place the crabs on it,
spread out side by side in their full glory, then transfer to the fridge while
preparing the other ingredients.
Start the robata grill. Place the cucumber in a bowl and cover with sushi
vinegar. Cover the edamame beans in boiling water and a pinch of salt for 5
minutes, then drain.
Check through the hand-picked crab meat to remove any bones. In a bowl,
mix the crab meat with the drained cucumber pickles, edamame, dill,
sesame seeds, yuzu or lemon juice, olive oil, and salt and pepper to taste.
Fold into the lukewarm rice and set aside while grilling the soft-shell crabs.
Brush the soft-shell crabs with olive oil and season with a pinch of sea salt.
Place on a wire rack over the robata and grill for a few minutes until they
startto take on colour. Spray with the sake-mirin spray to keep them moist
and add flavour. The crabs are done when bright pink. Spoon the rice salad
into a large serving bowl and place the soft-shell crabs on top, ready to
serve.
other robata
Traditionally, robata dishes were centred around fish, based
on the daily catch of the Hokkaido fishermen and the local
seasonal vegetables available. As robata has evolved, both in
Japan and globally, there has been a rush to adapt great
pieces of meat and more interesting vegetables using the
robata treatment.
In this chapter, sharing dishes of pork, lamb, beef and
poultry are included, all suitable for communal eating. The
provenance of meat is important for both ethical and quality
reasons, so do shop with consideration; you get what you pay
for. I recommend free-range meat, or organic if viable, not
only for quality, but as a matter of principle, as our eating
habits impact the planet we all share.
Traditionally, larger pieces of meat are not often found in
robata restaurants, but are perfect for cooking at home.
Moderation is key. The beauty of robata is that it allows the
option of serving a glorious piece of meat for a group to share,
in combination with some fish, vegetable and carbohydrate-
based dishes. It also caters easily for carnivores, vegetarians
and pescatarians, all in the same meal.
Butterflied Poussin with Yuzu Honey
Glaze
Poussin is a great small bird for robata, benefiting from the
intense heat and short cooking time, leaving it tender with a
slight hint of gamey flavour.
SERVES 4 AS ONE OF 4–5 ROBATA DISHES
2 whole poussin
2 tbsp olive oil
11/2 tbsp yuzu juice
11/2 tbsp runny honey
Sake-Mirin Spray
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Start the robata grill. To prepare the poussin, remove the neck and parson’s
nose, cut down the centre of the back and open up the poussin (like a book).
Turn the bird flesh side up, then place your hands flat on the bird and press
it flat using your body weight. Rinse the birds under cold running water,
dab dry with kitchen (paper) towel, then rub the birds in olive oil and
season with salt and pepper. Mix the yuzu juice with the honey in a bowl
and set aside.
Place a wire rack over the robata pit, place the birds over the hotter part of
the robata to seal in the juices, then move to the cooler part, turning every 2
minutes and keeping them moist with the sake-mirin spray. Brush the skin
with the honey and yuzu glaze, continuing to turn the birds and using up the
glaze. These birds cook fast, so keep rotating. This process takes up to 20
minutes depending on the intensity of the coals. When the birds are cooked,
place on a chopping board, cut into four pieces each, and serve with Aonori
Flatbread.
Japanese Yam Potato
This is a torpedo-shaped starchy crop with deep pink skin and
creamy flesh, also known as mountain yam, and available
from Japanese grocery stores.
SERVES 4 AS A SIDE DISH
4 medium yam potatoes
30g (1oz.) chives
olive oil
Sake-Mirin Spray
sea salt
With a clean, hard brush, scrub the potatoes clean of dirt, but keep the skin
as intact as possible. Cut the tip off each potato, then cut the potatoes in half
along the length and then into three wedges each. Start a steamer and steam
the wedges for 5–7 minutes; pierce them with a knife to check they are al
dente, then remove from the steamer. Leave to cool for at least 10 minutes.
Start the robata grill. When the robata is ready, place a wire rack over the
coals and brush with oil. Place the potatoes on top, brush with olive oil and
leave to take on colour for a few minutes. Control the heat and flames with
the sake-mirin spray.
Rotate the potatoes regularly, brushing with oil and controlling the flames
with the spray. Once cooked, dress with a sprinkle of sea salt and freshly
snipped chives.
Miso Lamb Chops
This is a classic dish in modern robata joints in most
metropolitan cities. It works best with a baby rack of lamb cut
into chops, a good size for finger food. These are so good and
should be one of the hero dishes of a robata meal.
SERVES 4 | MAKES 12
300g (101/2oz.) white miso
4 tbsp mirin
4 tbsp sake
4 tbsp caster (superfine) sugar
12 lamb chops from a baby rack of lamb, (about 2 x 300g/101/2oz. racks)
FOR THE SRIRACHA MISO DIP
60g (21/4oz.) yellow miso
2 tbsp mirin
1 tbsp Sriracha chilli sauce
Place the miso, mirin, sake and sugar in a small saucepan. Heat through
over a medium heat, whisking well to melt the sugar and incorporate the
sake and mirin. Decant into a shallow tray and leave to cool while preparing
the lamb.
Cut the racks between each joint into chops of equal thickness. Ensure that
each cutlet’s bone is free of meat or sinew as these work as the ‘handle’ for
eating with. Place the cutlets in the miso marinade, turn a few times,
ensuring they are fully covered, and leave to marinate in the fridge for a
minimum of 4 hours or overnight.
For the dip, place all the ingredients in a bowl, mix well and set aside.
Start the robata grill and place a wire rack over the bincho coals. Now rinse
the miso marinade off the cutlets; it is very important that all the marinade
is removed as otherwise it will ‘encase’ the meat, which will poach instead
of grilling. Grill the cutlets for 2–3 minutes on each side, rotating a few
times to ensure the cutlets are cooked. Serve medium-rare or cooked
through, according to preference, with the Sriracha miso dip alongside.
Cubed Sirloin with Chilli Butter
Eating locally reared free-range beef is always the best option,
and a good-quality sirloin steak is great for sharing.
SERVES 4 AS ONE OF 4–5 ROBATA DISHES
50g (2oz./1/4 cup) unsalted butter
1 tsp shichimi chilli powder
1 tsp kimchi chilli sauce
350–400g (121/2–14oz.) free-range or organic sirloin steak
salt and freshly ground black pepper
For the chilli butter, mix the soft butter with the chilli powder and sauce,
then place on a piece of cling film (plastic wrap) and mould to a 1 x 1cm
(1/2 x 1/2in.) square. Place in the freezer for at least 1 hour.
Start the robata grill. Season the steak with salt and pepper, then grill on
each side for 2 minutes, turning twice until medium-rare. The steak should
be soft to the touch and bounce back. Remove from the heat and leave to
rest for 5 minutes, then slice into bite-sized pieces and add thin slices of the
ice-cold butter.
◁ Whole Miso-Marinated Baby
Chicken
Marinating in miso is truly delicious, giving an umami richness
to the chicken, ensuring moistness and a great caramelization
of the meat. This is a larger meat dish to be shared, but use a
small chicken to ensure it cooks through evenly during the
grilling. For optimal results, marinate the chicken for 24–48
hours, giving the miso marinade plenty of time to penetrate
the protein and tenderize the meat. Use either a high-quality
sweet miso paste (more expensive, but it needs no further
alteration) or a standard yellow miso paste, adding sake, mirin
and sugar to aid the fermenting qualities of the miso. To
butterfly the chicken, have a deba knife and flexible filleting
knife to hand.
SERVES 4 AS ONE OF 4–5 ROBATA DISHES
200g (7oz.) sweet miso or 150g (5oz.) yellow miso
2 tbsp sake
2 tbsp mirin
2 tbsp caster (superfine) sugar
1 small chicken
olive oil
Sake-Mirin Spray
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Place the miso, sake, mirin and sugar in a small saucepan over a low heat,
stirring constantly with a whisk until all the ingredients have dissolved to
form a smooth paste. Leave to cool in the saucepan.
Place the chicken on a chopping board and use a deba or cook’s knife to cut
away the neck and the parson’s nose. Now cut along either side of the
backbone of the chicken and remove. Open up the chicken, like a book, and
remove the soft breast bone inside the chicken using a filleting knife: run
the knife along either side of the bone and pull it out with your hands. Turn
the chicken again, with skin side facing upwards, and using your full body
weight, place your hands flat on the chicken andpress the bird flat. Pierce
the chicken with a sharp knife to allow the marinade to penetrate the
protein.
Rub the miso marinade into the chicken, ensuring all areas are covered.
Place in a shallow tray, cover with cling film (plastic wrap), and leave the
miso to work its magic for 24–48 hours in the fridge.
On the day of cooking, start the robata grill. Rinse off all the miso paste
from the chicken under cold running water, dab dry with kitchen (paper)
towel, rub in a little olive oil and season with sea salt and black pepper.
Place the chicken above the sizzling hot bincho coals, turning every 2–3
minutes and spraying intermittently with the sake-mirin spray on the skin
side for a crisp result. Continue until cooked through but still moist. Check
by slicing away a small piece between the main body and leg, ensuring the
meat is cooked to the bone.
Leave the chicken to rest for 10 minutes on a chopping board, then chop
into 12 bite-sized pieces and serve.
◁ Chicken Drumettes with Coriander
(Cilantro) Pesto Dipping Sauce
Use the leftover drumettes from the recipe here; the
drumette is the top part of a three-piece chicken wing, which
looks like a mini chicken drumstick. This recipe is not cooked
on the robata but in the oven.
SERVES 4 AS ONE OF 4–5 ROBATA DISHES
100ml (scant 1/2 cup) kimchi or Sriracha chilli sauce
1 tbsp aonori seaweed
pinch of sea salt
24 chicken drumettes
4 tbsp Coriander (Cilantro) Pesto (see below)
2 tbsp Japanese Mayonnaise
4 spring onions (scallions)
Place the kimchi or chilli sauce, aonori and salt in a bowl, add the chicken
drumettes and marinate for 20–30 minutes in the fridge.
Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F/Gas mark 4).
Mix the pesto and mayonnaise together to create a dipping sauce. Chop the
spring onions (scallions) into fine rings, rinse in cold water and leave to
drain.
Line a baking tray with baking parchment and place the chicken on the tray.
Cook in the oven for 45 minutes, then remove from the oven, sprinkle with
the spring onions (scallions) and serve with the dipping sauce.
Coriander (Cilantro) Pesto
I do not add Parmesan to this pesto, as I am looking for a
clean, herby flavour. Keep any surplus of the pesto in the
fridge for up to five days; it is delicious on soba noodles,
brown rice, in sushi or even on pasta, with an additional
helping of good-quality Parmesan cheese.
MAKES APPROX. 200ML (3/4 CUP)
50g (2oz./1/3 cup) whole almonds
1 small clove of garlic, peeled and roughly chopped
1 tbsp honey
1 tbsp kimchi sauce
31/2 tbsp olive oil
100ml (scant 1/2 cup) grapeseed oil
1 large bunch of coriander (cilantro), stalks removed
1 large bunch of basil, stalks removed
Toast the almonds in a frying pan (skillet), chop roughly and add to a food
processor with the garlic, honey and kimchi. Combine the two oils in a jug.
Whizz the ingredients in the processor for a few minutes, then stop and
ensure all are evenly chopped. Turn the machine back on and gradually add
the oils, followed by the herbs, until you have a smooth, even paste. Place
in a bowl or a small squeezy bottle and keep in the fridge for up to 5 days.
◁ Yuzu Chicken
Dairy products are not a part of traditional Japanese cuisine,
but being Danish I have grown up with a large amount of
dairy in my diet, including as a cooking ingredient, and so I
have reached for the yogurt pot. To ensure the yuzu flavour
penetrates the chicken fully, but to avoid its acidity overcuring
the meat, the yogurt tenderizes the meat as the live bacteria
work their magic on the protein.
SERVES 4 AS MAIN DISH OF 4–5 ROBATA DISHES
500ml (2 cups) full-fat natural yogurt
100ml (scant 1/2 cup) yuzu juice
2 tbsp runny honey
8 pieces of organic (or free-range) chicken (legs and thighs)
grated zest and juice of 1 organic pink grapefruit, plus extra wedges to serve
1 tbsp soy sauce
2 tbsp soft brown sugar
31/2 tbsp olive oil
2 tbsp mixed sesame seeds
Sake-Mirin Spray
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Combine the yogurt with the yuzu and honey in a large mixing bowl, and
season with salt and pepper. Rub the chicken pieces in the yogurt marinade,
place in a container and pour the reminder of the marinade on top. Leave to
marinate in the fridge for 24–36 hours.
Start the robata grill. Put the grapefruit juice into a bowl and combine with
the soy sauce and sugar.
Rinse the yogurt off the chicken and dab dry with kitchen (paper) towel,
then dress the chicken in a little olive oil. When the coals are ready, place a
wire rack over the robata pit, brush with oil and place the chicken on top.
Seal the chicken, controlling the heat by moving the chicken from hotter to
colder areas and vice versa. Use the sake-mirin spray to control the flames
and reduce the heat. When the chicken is cooked through and the skin is
nice and crispy, place on a serving dish. Drizzle with the grapefruit juice
mixture, sprinkle with the chopped zest and sesame seeds, and serve with a
few wedges of grapefruit on the side.
◁ Duck Breast with Dashi Sweet
Mash and Robata Baby Carrot
This dish was inspired by a very talented sushi and grill chef I
have worked with over the years, Tsvetan Gerganov. With his
Bulgarian heritage he has fine-tuned his understanding of the
sea, the land and their seasons, mastering both raw and
cooked cuisine, and serving a perfect on-trend combination
of sushi and robata in Western-style Japanese restaurants.
SERVES 4 AS ONE OF 4–5 ROBATA DISHES
2 medium sweet potatoes
100ml (scant 1/2 cup) dashi
10–12 baby carrots
2 medium duck breasts, about 120g (41/4oz.)
1 tsp sea salt
1 tsp aonori seaweed
2 tsp white balsamic vinegar
Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F/Gas mark 4). Wash and dry the sweet
potatoes, then bake in the oven in their skins for 3–4 hours, until soft and
starting to caramelize at the edges, oozing trails of sugars. When the
potatoes are ready, they will be hot to handle, so either use a cloth or wear
rubber gloves. Cut the potatoes open and place the cooked flesh in a food
processor. Start running the machine and gradually add the dashi until you
have a smooth paste, then set aside.
Start the robata grill. Remove the tops of the carrots, leaving about 2cm (3/4
in.) of the green part; with a clean scourer, rub the baby carrots clean and
rinse under cold running water.
Score the duck breasts on the skin side, criss-crossing four cuts on each.
Mix the sea salt with the aonori seaweed and rub in well to the scored skin.
Place a wire rack over the coals with a small cast-iron frying pan (skillet).
Place the duck skin side down in the pan and render the fat of the skin for 2
minutes or until the skin looks crisp. Then place the breast flesh side down
on the wire rack and grill for 3–4 minutes until the flesh starts taking on
colour. Turn the duck breast one more time for the skin side to crisp up on
the wire rack for a further 1–2 minutes.
Meanwhile, grill the baby carrots, rotating regularly and brushing with
white balsamic vinegar to build up a nice sweet glaze. Take the meat off the
heat and leave to rest for 2 minutes. Cut the duck breast into thin slices, and
serve alongside the sweet potato mash, garnished with carrots.
◁ Teriyaki Duck with Asparagus
Pickles
Duck is a newcomer to robata menus. It can be a challenge to
achieve a tender bite through grilling only, so I slow-cook the
duck in the oven first.
SERVES 4 AS ONE OF 4–5 ROBATA DISHES
4 spring onions (scallions), plus extra for garnish
4 duck legs
31/2 tbsp light olive oil
2 cloves of garlic, finely sliced
5cm (2in.) piece of fresh ginger, peeled and finely sliced
300ml (11/4 cups) sake
1 red chilli
100ml (scant 1/2cup) soy sauce
100ml (scant 1/2 cup) mirin
2 tbsp caster (superfine) sugar
4 star anise
2 tbsp potato flour
1 tbsp mixed sesame seeds
vegetable oil
Sake-Mirin Spray
FOR THE ASPARAGUS PICKLES
2 asparagus spears, trimmed and cut into 3cm (11/4in.) pieces on the diagonal
2 spring onions (scallions), trimmed and cut into 3cm (11/4in.) pieces on the
diagonal
1/2 fresh jalapeño chilli, deseeded and finely sliced1 tsp soy sauce
1 tsp liquid kombu dashi
1 tsp honey
Preheat the oven to 160°C (325°F/Gas mark 3). Trim and clean the spring
onions (scallions), then cut each into three pieces. Cut the duck legs into
two pieces, thigh and leg, then cut 2–3 slits into each piece.
Heat the olive oil in a roasting tin. Add the garlic, ginger and spring onions
(scallions), cook for a few minutes, then add the duck, skin side down.
Press the duck into the pan with a spatula while it takes on colour and the
skin crisps up, then turn over to brown the flesh side of the duck.
Pour in the sake and leave to cook for a few minutes for the alcohol to
evaporate. Cut the chilli straight down the middle and add to the tin, then
add the soy, mirin and star anise to the mix and leave to infuse over the heat
for a few minutes. Cover with foil and slow cook in the oven for 1 hour and
20 minutes.
For the pickles, combine the soy, liquid kombu dashi and honey in a bowl.
Add the asparagus, spring onions and jalapeño, ensuring all are well dressed
in the pickling liquid. Place the pickles in a zip-lock bag, roll the bag into a
cylinder and press out the air, then leave to pickle in the fridge for 1 hour.
Start the robata grill. Remove the duck pieces and set aside, then strain the
poaching liquid into a saucepan through a sieve. With a small sieve, skim
the surface of the liquid, then reheat and thicken with potato flour diluted in
a little cold water, until you have a smooth, silky sauce. Pour into a bowl
ready for basting the duck while grilling.
When the coals are ready, place a wire rack over the top, brush both rack
and duck with oil and start grilling. Turn and move them regularly to ensure
they cook through, and spray intermittently with the sake-mirin spray to
control the flames and keep the meat moist.
When the duck is ready, place in a mixing bowl, pour over the sauce and
toss well. Place on a serving dish, sprinkle with sesame seeds and chopped
spring onions. Serve with the pickles and Japanese Slaw with Yuzu
Vinaigrette.
◁ Baby Back Pork Ribs
I recommend buying good-quality free-range reared pork for
this dish from a good butcher. This recipe is all about
tenderizing the meat in advance so it literally falls off the
bone.
SERVES 4–6 AS ONE OF 4–5 ROBATA DISHES
2 cloves of garlic, sliced
100ml (scant 1/2 cup) soy sauce
2 dried chillies
200ml (3/4 cup) dashi
10 whole peppercorns
8 dried shiitake mushrooms
2 racks of baby back pork ribs
4 tbsp granulated sugar
1 tbsp potato flour
1/2 bunch of spring onions (scallions), chopped into fine rings
2 tbsp mixed sesame seeds
vegetable oil
Sake-Mirin Spray
Preheat the oven to 220°C (425°F/Gas mark 7). First prepare the poaching
liquid for the ribs. Place the garlic in a mixing bowl with half the soy sauce,
the dried chillies, dashi, peppercorns and shiitake mushrooms. Pour in about
1 litre (4 cups) of boiling water. Gently bring to the boil and leave to
simmer.
Place the ribs on a chopping board with the curved size facing up. There is
a fine white membrane running along the bones on top of the flesh
connecting them together. Pull this off and place the ribs in a shallow tray,
curved side facing down. Place in the oven for 10 minutes to seal the ribs.
Remove from the oven and reduce the heat to 180°C (350°F/Gas mark 4).
Pour over the poaching liquid, boil the kettle, and top up the tray until the
ribs are fully covered. Cover with a piece of foil and cook in the oven for 1
hour 40 minutes.
When the ribs are ready, remove from the poaching liquid and place on a
tray, then re-cover with foil. Place a sieve over a saucepan and drain the
liquid into the pan, discarding the contents of the sieve. Cook the liquid
over a medium heat until it has reduced to one-third, then add the sugar and
remaining soy and, when this is incorporated, add a little potato flour mixed
with water and stir until the liquid thickens to a silky smooth sauce. You
may not need all the potato flour mixture.
Start the robata grill. Remove the racks of ribs from the marinade and cut
them in half. Place a wire rack over the coals, brush the wire rack and the
ribs with a little oil and grill over a medium–high heat. Rotate the meat until
it is sealed all over, then baste with the teriyaki sauce.
Carry on basting, repeating to build up a nice glaze. Control the heat by
moving between high to medium; control the flames with the spray. When
the ribs are ready, move to the coolest part of the robata and leave to rest for
10 minutes. Cut the ribs and arrange on a large oval serving dish, sprinkled
with spring onions (scallions) and sesame seeds. Serve with Japanese Slaw
with Garlic Mayo and Hibiki.
Lamb Ribs with Shiso ▷
A carnivore’s feast, these will stimulate your inner
cave(wo)man as you embark on a serious session of messy
eating. The rib cage of a lamb is smaller than that of a pig,
and so the rack comes curved with differing sizes of rib. To
ensure even cooking across all shapes and sizes, these are
sealed, poached and marinated before being grilled on the
robata.
SERVES 4 AS ONE OF 4–5 ROBATA DISHES
2–3 lamb ribs
2 tbsp mirin
2 tbsp soy sauce
2 tbsp caster (superfine) sugar
2 tbsp potato flour
10 shiso leaves, chopped
handful of mint leaves, chopped
olive oil
Sake-Mirin Spray
salt and freshly ground black pepper
FOR THE POACHING LIQUID
10 x 10cm (4 x 4in.) piece of konbu
6 dried shiitake mushrooms
2 tbsp liquid kombu dashi
2 tbsp soy sauce
1.5 litres (6 cups) boiling water
FOR THE MARINADE
1 small onion, peeled and grated
3 cloves of garlic, peeled and finely chopped
2 x 2cm (3/4 x 3/4in.) piece of fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
2 cans of ginger ale/beer
3 tbsp soy sauce
3 tbsp olive oil
3 tbsp honey
Preheat the oven to 240°C (475°F/Gas mark 9). Place the lamb ribs in a
roasting tray and season with salt and pepper. Cover the ribs with foil and
cook in the oven for 10 minutes to seal the meat.
Meanwhile, make the marinade. Add the onion, garlic and ginger to a
mixing bowl with the ginger ale, soy sauce, olive oil and honey. Mix well.
Add all the ingredients for the poaching liquid to a separate mixing bowl,
holding back 500ml (2 cups) of the boiling water.
When the ribs are sealed, remove from the oven and pour over the poaching
liquid until fully submerged. You may have to top up with some of the extra
water. Cover with foil, reduce the heat to 160°C (325°F/Gas mark 3) and
cook for 40 minutes.
When the ribs have finished poaching, remove from the oven, retaining the
poaching liquid, and place them in a plastic container. Pour over the
marinade and leave in the fridge for 2 hours (longer is fine).
Strain the poaching liquid through a sieve into a saucepan and cook over a
medium heat until reduced by two-thirds. When the sauce is reduced, add
the mirin, soy sauce and sugar and heat through.
About 30 minutes before the ribs have finished marinating, start the robata
grill. When the coals are ready, place a wire rack over the robata grill, brush
the rack with oil, remove the ribs from the marinade and start grilling.
When they have taken on colour, turn the ribs; the coals will flare up as the
fat drips, so control the flames with the sake-mirin spray. After turning a
couple of times, start basting with the sauce, repeating to build up a nice
glaze. The ribs will cook very quickly, so keep rotating. When the ribs have
finished cooking, move to the colder area of the robata grill to rest for a few
minutes, then place on a serving dish, drizzle over any remaining sauce and
sprinkle with a handful of freshly chopped shiso and mint leaves.
◁ Charred Leeks with Spicy Dip
There is a Spanish spring onion called calcot, which is eaten in
Catalonia to celebrate the arrival of spring. Similar to a small
leek, they are grilled until charred and then wrapped in
newspaper to give a steam finish. Inspired by this great
celebration of the arrival of spring, here are robata baby leeks
with a romesco-inspired dipping sauce, substituting a few of
the traditional Spanish ingredientswith their Japanese
counterparts.
SERVES 4 | MAKES 8
8 medium-sized leeks
olive oil
FOR THE SAUCE
1 medium red pepper, halved and deseeded
1 large tomato
1 clove of garlic, peeled and finely chopped
50g (2oz./1/3 cup) whole almonds
40g (11/2oz./3/4 cup) panko breadcrumbs
small handful of coriander (cilantro)
1 tsp shichimi chilli powder
1 tsp paprika
1 tsp mirin
1 tsp rice vinegar
100ml (scant 1/2 cup) olive oil
salt, to taste
Start the robata grill and place a wire rack over the bincho coals. Grill the
peppers and tomato on the rack until charred. When slightly burned on the
edges (this gives a great smoky flavour), place in a zip-lock bag in the
freezer to cool down. This will make them easier to peel.
Clean the leeks: if they still have the root, wash these thoroughly until free
of any dirt. Any outer leaves looking tatty or torn should be removed. Cut a
small insertion about 4cm (11/2in.) from the top of the leeks and gently rinse
the insides to remove any soil or sand. Once thoroughly clean, steam the
baby leeks in a steamer for 8–10 minutes, until just al dente.
For the sauce, add the garlic to a food processor with the almonds and pulse
until you reach a smooth paste. Remove the tomato and red peppers from
the freezer, remove the skins, the white membrane from the peppers, and
deseed the tomato. Chop roughly and add to the machine, then pulse until
incorporated. Add the panko breadcrumbs, pulse again, then add the
remaining ingredients and process until you have a dipping sauce.
When the leeks are ready, plunge straight into ice-cold water to retain the
colour. Leave for a few minutes, then transfer to a colander to drip dry.
Dress the leeks in a little olive oil, then grill until very well done (charred).
Place on a serving dish and spoon over the great romesco sauce before
serving.
◁ Butterflied Red Miso Lamb
This is the pièce de résistance when throwing a dinner party
for a larger group of people, and works well as a centrepiece
served alongside smaller robata dishes. I recommend serving
this dish towards the end of a robata setting to ensure your
guests enjoy this at a good pace. The curing of the lamb in
sake and miso tenderizes the meat perfectly, and brings out
the umami notes of the lamb. It’s not a traditional
combination in Japan, but it tones down the fattiness of the
lamb and enhances the texture of the meat.
SERVES 8–12
300g (101/2oz.) red miso
31/2 tbsp sake
31/2 tbsp mirin
2 tbsp caster (superfine) sugar
1 medium-sized leg of lamb, 700–800g (1lb. 9oz.–1lb. 12oz.) deboned (see recipe)
2 cloves of garlic
1 rosemary sprig, leaves roughly chopped
olive oil
Place the miso in a small saucepan with the sake, mirin and sugar. Cook
over a low heat until the sugar is melted and the mirin and sake are
incorporated. Set aside and leave to cool.
Place the leg of lamb on a chopping board. Debone the lamb by cutting into
the bone with a filleting knife where the bone is almost exposed underneath
the flesh. With small precise slicing movements, remove the bone, ensuring
the maximum amount of flesh is left behind.
Add the garlic and rosemary to the miso mixture. Place the lamb in a
shallow tray, then pour the miso mixture over the lamb and rub the mixture
into the flesh. Cover with cling film (plastic wrap) and leave to marinate for
24–48 hours.
On the day of cooking, start the robata grill. Rinse off the miso marinade,
ensuring all is removed, and dab dry with kitchen (paper) towel. Rub in a
little olive oil and place in a clean shallow tray. Place a wire rack over the
robata pit and grill the lamb meat, turning regularly until cooked to
medium-rare. Press your fingertip into the meat – it should bounce back
well – or cut a small insertion into the meat. When done, and the surface of
the meat is nicely caramelized, leave to rest on a chopping board for 20
minutes to relax the meat. Slice finely and serve as the centrepiece of your
robata meal, alongside New Potatoes with Uni Butter and the Paper-Thin
Seasonal Salad.
◁ Beef Tataki
Eat these like little wraps with additional crunchy veggies and
sauces. I use baby gem leaves, but any similar salad or herb
leaves, like shiso, young spinach or young kale, would make a
great substitute.
SERVES 4 AS ONE OF 4–5 ROBATA DISHES
10cm (4in.) piece of cucumber, plus 1/2 cucumber, for pickling
10cm (4in.) piece of mooli (daikon)
400g (14oz.) rib eye steak
8 shiso leaves or baby gem leaves
2 spring onions (scallions), chopped into fine rings
sushi vinegar
olive oil
furikake, for sprinkling
Start the robata grill.
Using a Japanese mandoline with a medium blade, grate the cucumber into
julienne-style strips from the green skin and firm flesh, discarding the
seeds. Set the strips of cucumber aside. Peel the mooli (daikon) and grate on
the same setting, right into the core. Place the mooli (daikon) in iced water
and leave to crisp up. Change the grating blade on the mandoline to a fine
setting, place over a bowl and slice the cucumber half. Pour over enough
sushi vinegar to just cover the finely sliced cucumber and set aside.
Trim the beef into 8–10cm (3–4in.) blocks. Rub the beef in a little oil, place
a wire rack over the robata pit and grill the beef for just a few minutes on
each side. Set the meat aside for 10 minutes to rest.
Cut the beef on a 45-degree angle into slices about 5mm x 3cm (1/5 x
11/4in.). Place on a serving plate in the middle of the table with the
accompanying garnishes and shiso or baby gem leaves in small bowls
surrounding it. To eat, place a piece of beef inside a leaf, garnish with
cucumber, mooli (daikon), spring onions (scallions), a few slices of pickled
cucumber, and sprinkle with furikake. Serve with Portobello Mushrooms
stuffed with Shimeji and Shiitake.
◁ Porterhouse Steak with Uni Butter
The Porterhouse is a bigger version of the T-bone steak and is
carved from a larger portion of the tenderloin and typically
shared between two people. Like the T-bone steak, one side is
a tenderloin fillet and the other side steak (strip steak in
American steakhouses). It is an expensive piece of meat, but
ideal for sharing in a robata setting. Here it’s served with uni
butter, enhancing an already umami-packed piece of meat.
Eating beef is a treat in my eyes, and choosing a free-range
cut is an important ethical stance, so buy your beef from a
butcher with a passion for the trade. Sushi-grade sea urchin is
available from Japanese wholesalers.
SERVES 4 AS ONE OF 4–5 ROBATA DISHES
100g (31/2oz./1/2 cup) unsalted butter
50g (2oz.) sea urchin (uni)
1 tbsp soy sauce
1 tsp Dijon mustard
1 tsp yuzu juice
pinch of shichimi chilli
10 chive sprigs, finely chopped
4 thyme sprigs, leaves finely chopped
1 Porterhouse steak, about 600–700g (1lb. 5oz.–1lb. 9oz.)
olive oil
Sake-Mirin Spray
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Start the robata grill.
First, make the uni butter. Add the butter, sea urchin, soy sauce, mustard,
yuzu juice and chilli to a food processor, and run until all the ingredients are
incorporated. Add the herbs to the processor and pulse until they are evenly
distributed. Place the mixture on a piece of cling film (plastic wrap) and
shape into a cylindrical log. Twist both ends tight until you have a smooth,
even log. Place in the freezer to chill.
Prepare the Porterhouse steak by rubbing in a little oil, then season with salt
and pepper. When the bincho coals are a smouldering grey, place a wire
rack over the coals and lightly brush with oil, then place the steak on the
rack, controlling any flares from the flames with the sake-mirin spray. Seal
the steak on each side, then grill for 4–5 minutes on each side until
medium-rare and soft to the touch with a little bounce back. Remove from
the grill and leave to rest for 10 minutes, then cut off the bone and into
strips.
Remove the uni butter from the freezer and serve alongside the pieces of
steak, with Red Onion Pickles, Asparagus with Sea Salt and Kappa Pickles.
◁ Robata Garden in Quinoa Soil
This dish works with an endlesscombination of vegetables, so
use what is in season. Some vegetables will need par-boiling,
just to ensure that all are evenly cooked and on time when
coming off the robata grill.
SERVES 4
12 baby carrots
8 spring onions
8 baby parsnips
4 baby fennel
200ml (3/4 cup) vegetable oil
100g (31/2oz./1/2 cup) quinoa
1 pack soft silken tofu (drained weight about 160g/51/2oz.)
2 tbsp sesame paste or tahini
1 tsp yuzu juice or a squeeze of lemon juice
olive oil
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Start the robata grill. Place a pot containing 3 litres (12 cups) water on the
hob (stove top) over a high heat. Rinse all the vegetables in cold water,
ensuring to rub any dirt off carefully. When the water is boiling, salt the
water, reduce the heat to medium and cook the vegetables until al dente,
less than 5 minutes. Drain the vegetables and plunge straight into ice-cold
water to cool for 10 minutes. Drain the vegetables in a colander, then dab
dry with kitchen (paper) towel, lay them out on a tray, brush with olive oil
and season with salt and pepper, ready for grilling.
Heat the vegetable oil in a small heavy-based saucepan. Fry the quinoa for
2–3 minutes. Place a metal sieve over a metal bowl and drain the quinoa.
Line another shallow tray with kitchen (paper) towel and spread the quinoa
out to dry. Do keep the oil for future use, as it has hardly taken on any
flavour from the quinoa.
Break the tofu into 5–6 chunks and place in a food processor with the
sesame paste, yuzu, and salt and pepper. Process until you have a smooth
paste with the same consistency as full-fat Greek yogurt. Spoon the mixture
on to a serving plate and sprinkle with the toasted quinoa.
Place a small wire rack over the smouldering hot coals. Place all the
vegetables on top and rotate every 2 minutes until nicely browned,
occasionally brushing with additional olive oil to keep them moist. When
the vegetables are cooked through and gently charred in places, remove
from the robata and stick into the tofu dip ready for sharing.
◁ Robata Tofu Agadashi
Tofu agadashi is a classic Japanese appetizer of silken tofu,
deep-fried and served in a smooth dashi broth with bonito
shavings on top. Here it is reinvented with firm organic tofu.
For a truly exclusive version I highly recommend using fresh
wasabi, which can be ordered online. The plants are also
available and easy to grow in a pot, however you will be in for
the long haul as it takes at least two years for the plant to
mature.
SERVES 4
1/2 pack firm organic tofu (drained weight about 150g/5oz.)
2 tsp freshly grated wasabi, or good-quality wasabi powder
200ml (3/4 cup) dashi
2 tbsp mirin
2 tbsp light soy sauce
handful of shaved bonito flakes
1 tbsp finely grated fresh ginger
grapeseed oil
You will need: 8 wooden skewers soaked for 30 minutes in cold water
Start the robata grill.
Drain the tofu and wrap in kitchen (paper) towel to draw out the liquid (if
not using the other half of the block straight away, this will last up to a
week in the fridge kept in refreshed water).
If not using fresh wasabi, add 2 tablespoons of wasabi powder to a bowl,
add a little cold water and mix to a smooth, even paste. Set aside.
Cut the tofu into four equal-sized squares. Skewer with two skewers each.
Brush each with oil and grill on a wire rack over bincho coals for a few
minutes on each side until taking on colour.
Meanwhile, heat the dashi in a small saucepan next to the tofu on the
robata, adding mirin and soy sauce.
When the tofu is a nice golden colour with a few grill marks, add to
individual bowls, decorate with the bonito flakes, a dot of ginger, a small
dot of wasabi, and pour the dashi stock into each bowl. The dish is ready to
serve.
◁ Black Miso Tofu
The magic of miso, being very high in protein, is that it also
works well with fish, and even tofu. Allow the tofu to marinate
for 24–48 hours for best results.
SERVES 4
11/2 packs firm organic tofu (drained weight about 400–500g/14oz.– 1lb. 11/2oz.)
200g (7oz.) yellow miso
2 tbsp mirin
2 tbsp sake
2 tbsp caster (superfine) sugar
grapeseed oil
Remove the tofu from its packaging, wrap in kitchen (paper) towel and
leave to allow the liquid to drain out.
Add the miso, mirin, sake and sugar to a saucepan and heat gently over a
medium heat, stirring constantly to make sure the miso does not burn.
When everything is dissolved and combined, set aside to cool for 10
minutes.
Cut each block of tofu into four pieces. Smother each piece in miso paste,
ensuring the tofu is fully covered. Place in a shallow tray, cover and leave
in the fridge for 24–48 hours to cure.
On the day of cooking, start the robata grill. Gently scrape the miso paste
off the tofu and rinse off any remaining marinade under cold running water.
It is important that all miso paste is removed, otherwise the tofu would end
up steaming instead of grilling.
Dab the tofu dry with kitchen (paper) towel. Brush each piece with oil and
grill on the robata until cooked through with a nice caramelization. Serve
with Asparagus Pickles and Japanese Slaw with Yuzu Vinaigrette.
classic yakitori
Yakitori literally means ‘grilled bird’ and originated as more of
an urban phenomenon in Japan, before spreading like
wildfire around the globe. It is a great way of eating,
accessible to all, and the perfect street food.
Almost any part of a chicken can be diced and skewered,
then grilled over binchotan (or cheaper hardwood coal) on a
narrow yakitori grill, seasoned with either sea salt or a
generous helping of tare sauce. It is a pretty simple kind of
eating, but with additional care and attention I do not think
anything can beat the home-cooked version. It is also a good
starting point to perfect cooking on the robata grill, as the
technique is relatively easy to master.
At the traditional yakitori joint you may also find vegetarian
options, such as shiitake, baby turnips and asparagus, and
surprisingly grilled pork, which is outside the remit of ‘grilled
bird’ but is delicious all the same.
What unites all these dishes is that they are served on
wooden skewers, from specialist yakitori skewers to simple
round skewers. Do soak the skewers to avoid them burning
over the coals. In terms of length, it is all down to how heavy
their burden will be.
Chicken Tskune
These are delicious lollipop-style chicken skewers. The dish is
not brined, and I use garlic powder instead of fresh, to keep
the mixture as dry as possible.
SERVES 4 | MAKES 8
250g (9oz.) minced (ground) chicken
2 tbsp finely chopped spring onions (scallions)
1 tsp soy sauce
1/2 tsp garlic powder
1 tbsp potato flour
31/2 tbsp Tare Sauce
Sake-Mirin Spray
You will need: 16 wooden skewers, soaked for 30 minutes in cold water
In a large bowl, mix together the minced (ground) chicken, spring onions
(scallions), soy sauce, garlic powder and potato flour, and place in the
fridge for 30 minutes to firm up a little.
Divide the chicken mixture into eight portions and mould into 1cm (1/2 in.)
thick oval-shaped discs, and skewer each with two parallel skewers.
Start the robata grill. Place a wire rack over the over the glowing bincho
coals, place the chicken skewers on top, and after a few minutes, when the
tskune have started taking on colour, spray with the sake-mirin spray. Turn
the skewers, then repeat the process at 2-minute intervals until the chicken
is just cooked.
Now start brushing the tskune with tare sauce, turning the skewers 4–5
times until cooked through. Serve immediately.
Negima Yakitori
A very popular yakitori dish, with spring onion/scallion
(negima) and chicken.
SERVES 4 | MAKES 8
100g (31/2oz./1/2 cup) caster (superfine) sugar
50g (2oz./1/3 cup) seaweed salt
100ml (scant 1/2 cup) boiling water
400ml (11/2 cups) ice-cold water
300g (101/2oz.) boneless, skinless chicken thighs
1 bunch spring onions (scallions)
31/2 tbsp Tare Sauce
Sake-Mirin Spray
You will need: 8 wooden skewers, soaked for 30 minutes in cold water
First, make a brine. Place the sugar and salt in a mixing bowl, thenpour
over the boiling water and mix well. Top up the brine with the ice-cold
water. Trim any sinew or loose bits from the chicken. Cut the chicken into
1.5 x 1.5cm (1/2 x 1/2 in.) cubes, add to the brine and leave to cure in the
fridge for 2 hours.
Start the robata grill. Trim and discard the dark green ends of the spring
onions (scallions), then rinse in cold water and cut into 2cm (3/4in.) pieces.
Divide the chicken into eight portions. Thread the pieces on to the skewers,
alternating chicken and spring onions (scallions), starting and finishing with
a chicken piece.
Place the skewers directly over the bincho coals, resting them on either
edge of the robata pit. After 2 minutes’ grilling, rotate the skewers to cook
the other side, then rotate again after a further 2 minutes, spraying
intermittently with the sake-mirin spray. Brush the chicken with tare sauce.
Repeat, adding more tare sauce and turning the chicken until slightly
charred and crispy, but still juicy.
Chicken Wings with ‘Addictive
Cabbage’
Crispy chicken wings are another staple on the yakitori menu,
and here are served with the classic cabbage dish which most
often accompanies the yakitori meal. Known as ‘addictive’
cabbage – it surely is in all its simplicity!
SERVES 4 | MAKE 8
24 x 3-joint chicken wings
100g (31/2oz./1/2 cup) caster (superfine) sugar
50g (2oz./1/3 cup) seaweed salt
100ml (scant 1/2 cup) boiling water
400ml (11/2 cups) ice-cold water
1/2 white cabbage
1 tbsp sea salt
1 tbsp sesame oil
1 tbsp olive oil
1 tbsp chia seeds
31/2 tbsp Tare Sauce
Sake-Mirin Spray
You will need: 16 wooden skewers, soaked for 30 minutes in cold water
First prepare the wings. Using a cook’s knife or deba knife, divide each
wing into wing tip, middle wing piece and upper wing piece, also called the
drumette. Use the wing tips for the tare sauce or discard, and set aside the
drumettes for the Chicken Drumettes recipe.
For the brine, put the sugar and salt in a mixing bowl with the boiling water
and whisk well until dissolved. Top up the bowl with the ice-cold water.
Leave the chicken wings in the brine for 4–6 hours.
Prepare the ‘addictive cabbage’: cut the white cabbage into quarters and
remove the stalk. Cut each quarter into 3 wedges and then cut each wedge
into diamond-shaped pieces. Place the cabbage in a mixing bowl, add the
sea salt, give it a good mix and set aside for 20 minutes.
Start the robata grill. Rinse the cabbage, place in a serving bowl and dress
in sesame oil, olive oil and chia seeds.
Prepare the skewers, allowing three wings per portion, threaded on to two
parallel skewers. Place the chicken wings over the glowing bincho coals,
resting the skewers on either edge of the robata pit. After 2 minutes, spray
with the sake-mirin spray, then turn the skewers and repeat the process at 2-
minute intervals until the chicken is just cooked. Now start brushing the
wings with the tare sauce, turning the chicken wings four times until tender,
crisp and sticky. Serve immediately.
◁ Chicken Skin Yakitori
This is a labour of love and takes some patience, but the
results are fabulous. Ask your butcher to put the chicken skins
aside for you. There are various methods of rendering the fat
of the skins; in this recipe it is done with a gentle boil, but the
skins could also be skewered and precooked in a medium–hot
oven or in a pressure cooker. I prefer the gentle boil as I can
control what is happening, and at the same time be
reassured that all the fat is removed from the skins. Crispy
skin is traditionally served with a sprinkle of sea salt.
SERVES 4 | MAKES 8
32 chicken skins from chicken breasts (fillets)
Maldon sea salt
Sake-Mirin Spray
You will need: 8 wooden skewers, soaked for 30 minutes in cold water
Place the chicken skins in a large saucepan, cover with water and bring to
the boil. Leave the skins to simmer for 30 minutes, regularly removing the
foam and fat as it rises to the surface. Drain the skins, and when they have
cooled a little, spread them out on a flat surface to ensure they do not stick
together or break.
Trim each skin into a square-ish shape; they should all be approximately the
same size. Fold each skin into three, like folding a letter. Then skewer four
skins on each skewer, folding each folded strip in three again. Pack them
tightly, but with room for heat to circulate around the skins.
When the chicken skins are ready, start the robata grill. Place the skins over
the robata pit and grill over the heat, rotating regularly and spraying with
the sake-mirin spray to control any flares from the flames. Sprinkle with the
sea salt and serve.
Chicken Hearts
Unfortunately, these are not readily available, but give your
local butcher a few days’ warning and I am convinced they
will put them aside for you at a very favourable price. Frozen
hearts work well too, as long as they are from a bird with good
animal husbandry, as this will show in the flavour. In the true
spirit of original yakitori, I marinate these in the classic blend
of soy, mirin and sake. They are very good to serve early in the
meal.
SERVES 4 | MAKES 8
about 40 chicken hearts (300–350g/ 101/2–121/2oz.)
3 tbsp soy sauce
3 tbsp mirin
3 tbsp sake
1 tsp fine sea salt
1 tsp matcha powder
Sake-Mirin Spray
You will need: 8 wooden skewers, soaked for 30 minutes in cold water
If the chicken hearts are frozen, defrost in a colander over a bowl and cover
with a plate for 30 minutes. Rinse the chicken hearts before marinating; it is
important that any blood residue is removed. Leave any fat partially
encasing the hearts as this only improves the flavour.
Put the soy sauce, mirin and sake in a bowl, add the chicken hearts and
leave to marinate for 30 minutes in the fridge. In a separate bowl, combine
the sea salt and matcha for a matcha salt.
Start the robata grill. Thread 5–6 hearts on to each skewer and grill over the
robata pit, turning regularly and controlling the flames with the sake-mirin
spray. These really only need a few minutes to cook through, then place on
a serving plate, sprinkle with matcha salt and serve.
Teriyaki Chicken Breasts (Fillets)
Chicken breast (fillets) should be moist to be enjoyed the
most. This is best achieved by giving the chicken a gentle
bashing, followed by a good soak in classic Japanese
ingredients.
SERVES 4 | MAKES 8
4 tbsp soy sauce
2 dried shiitake mushrooms
1 clove of garlic, peeled and sliced thinly
1 small knob of fresh ginger, peeled and thinly sliced
4 tbsp mirin
4 tbsp sake
2 large free-range or organic chicken breasts (fillets), skin on
1 tbsp potato flour
Sake-Mirin Spray
You will need: 8 wooden skewers, soaked for 30 minutes in cold water
Pour the soy sauce into a small saucepan, heat over a gentle heat until just
before boiling point, then remove from the heat and add the shiitake
mushrooms.
Put the garlic and ginger in a small square plastic container and add the
shiitake mushrooms with the soy sauce, mirin and sake.
Place 1 chicken breast (fillet) in a zip-lock bag, skin side down, and bash
with a meat cleaver. Do not be too forceful; the main purpose is to tenderize
the fibres in the breast (fillet) and have an even thickness without tearing
the meat or breaking the skin. Repeat with the second chicken breast (fillet),
then add both to the marinade and leave to steep in the fridge for 2 hours.
Start the robata grill. When the chicken has finished marinating, drain in a
colander over a small saucepan, discard the shiitake, ginger and garlic, but
retain the liquid. Cut each chicken breast into four equal-sized strips and
skewer, then leave in the fridge while preparing the teriyaki sauce.
Gently heat the marinade until just before boiling point. Mix the potato
flour with a little cold water and gradually add to the marinade until you
have a silky-smooth teriyaki sauce. You may not need all the potato flour
mixture.
Now place the chicken skewers over the robata pit, turning as they take on
colour and basting the skin in teriyaki sauce. Use the sake-mirin sprayto
control the flames. Repeat a few times until the chicken is just cooked and
the skin is sticky and crispy.
◁ Pork Tskune with Golden Beetroot
(Beet) Pickles
Not traditionally Japanese, however Frikadellen (meatballs) is
the national dish of the Nordic countries and works
deliciously well coated in tare sauce. The pickles are best
made a week in advance to give them time to infuse, and can
last up to three months stored in a sterilized jar in a cool
place.
SERVES 4 | MAKES 12
1 small onion, peeled and finely grated
1 small clove of garlic, peeled and finely grated
2 tbsp finely chopped spring onions (scallions)
400g (14oz.) minced (ground) pork (20% fat content)
1 tbsp soy sauce
1 tbsp mirin
1 tbsp potato flour
31/2 tbsp Tare Sauce
FOR THE PICKLES
500g (1lb. 11/2oz.) golden beetroots (beets)
1 tsp coriander seeds
1 tsp Sichuan peppercorns
1 star anise
1 tsp dill seeds
500ml (2 cups) sushi vinegar
2 bay leaves
2 tbsp caster (superfine) sugar
You will need: 24 wooden skewers, soaked for 30 minutes in cold water; sterilized jar
(shown here) for the pickles
For the pickles, remove the tops of the beetroots (beets), leaving a few
centimetres of the stalks in place, then wash the beetroots (beets) in cold
water to rub off all dirt. Cook in plenty of salted water until all dente, drain,
then plunge into ice-cold water to cool down.
Make the pickling liquid: toast the coriander seeds, Sichuan peppercorns,
star anise and dill seeds in a pan for a few minutes to release their aromas.
Pour over the sushi vinegar and add the bay leaves and sugar. Leave to
simmer for 10 minutes, then turn off the heat and leave to cool down.
Peel the beetroots (beets), cut in half, then quarters, and then into a further
3–4 wedges subject to their size. Place them in the sterilized jar, packing
them tight, then pour over the pickling liquid. Poor the liquid right to the
top, close the jar tight and turn upside down to create a vacuum. Leave for a
good hour before storing away.
To prepare the pork tsukune, place the onion and garlic in a mixing bowl.
Add the spring onions (scallions), minced (ground) pork, soy sauce, mirin
and potato flour. Mix until all the ingredients are evenly incorporated, then
leave in the fridge for 30 minutes to firm up a little.
Start the robata grill. Divide the mixture into 12 equal-sized balls, then
shape each one into an oval and skewer with two skewers.
When the coals are ready, place a wire rack on top, brush with oil, then
place the pork skewers on top. Leave to grill for a few minutes, until they
start to take on colour, then turn. Before turning a third time, dip in the tare
sauce and return to the robata grill, repeating 3–4 times until the pork is
cooked through and the outside is caramelized. Serve with the golden
beetroot (beet) pickles and Asparagus with Sea Salt.
◁ Pork Belly Yuzu Miso
Pork belly is a great inexpensive robata option, with its
flavoursome strips of fat. I recommend using belly from free-
range rare breeds. To break the grease and enhance the
flavours, this is served with a simple yuzu miso topping to add
umami and acidity simultaneously.
SERVES 4 | MAKES 8
100g (31/2oz./1/2cup) caster (superfine) sugar
50g (2oz./1/3 cup) seaweed salt
100ml (scant 1/2 cup) boiling water
400ml (11/2 cups) ice-cold water
600g (1lb. 5oz.) strips of pork belly
Sake-Mirin Spray
FOR THE YUZU MISO DRESSING
1 tbsp mirin
1 tbsp caster (superfine) sugar
50g (2oz.) yellow miso
11/2 tbsp yuzu juice
You will need: 8 wooden skewers, soaked for 30 minutes in cold water
First, make a brine. Place the sugar and salt in a mixing bowl, then pour
over the boiling water and mix well. Top up the brine with the ice-cold
water.
Trim the pork belly, removing the rind and leaving as much of the fat
attached to the meat as possible. Cut into 1 .5 x 1.5cm (1/2 x 1/2 in.) wide
pieces, add to the brine and leave to soak for 2 hours in the fridge.
For the dressing, place the mirin, sugar and miso in a small saucepan over a
gentle heat and stir until the sugar is melted and the mirin incorporated.
Remove from the heat, stir in the yuzu juice, and set aside to cool down.
Start the robata grill. Drain the pork belly through a colander, discarding the
liquid. Divide the pork between the eight skewers. Grill over the bincho
coals, spraying with sake-mirin spray and rotating every 2 minutes. Repeat
until the pork is cooked through and crisp on the edges, about 8–10
minutes. Remove from the robata and, while still piping hot, add dollops of
the yuzu miso to the crispy pork, then place in a serving dish and serve with
Red Onion Pickles.
◁ Bacon-Wrapped Robata Lollies
This recipe works with lots of different fillings: the main
principles are that your chosen filling adds flavour and is
round! I use quail eggs, cherry tomatoes and scallops.
SERVES 4 | MAKES 12
6 quail eggs
6 rashers of good-quality smoked streaky (lean) bacon
4 hand-dived scallops
4 cherry or baby plum tomatoes, rinsed
Sake-Mirin Spray
You will need: 12 skewers, soaked for 30 minutes in cold water
Cook the quail eggs for 3 minutes in boiling water, then plunge straight into
cold water and leave to cool. Place the bacon slices on a large chopping
board and place a sheet of baking parchment on top. With a rolling pin, roll
the bacon so that it stretches out by about one-third. Cut the slices in half to
create 12 pieces in total.
Clean the scallops: remove them from the shell, carefully remove the coil
and the digestive sac, and wash under minimal running water; you want to
ensure you remove any dirt and sand, but not wash away the great
sweetness of the scallop.
Gently roll the cooled quail eggs across a flat surface to break the shell, and
peel carefully, ensuring they stay intact. You have two spare just in case one
breaks.
Start the robata grill. Roll all the prepared ingredients in the thin slices of
bacon and spear with a skewer. Place a rack over the bincho coals and cook
the bacon lollies, spraying them with the sake-mirin spray before rotating.
Repeat until crisping up on the edges and the ingredients in the centre are
just cooked.
other skewers
This chapter includes beef, fish and vegetarian dishes, often
referred to collectively as skewers or sticks. This is a great
category in which to move away from the traditional and
include some great new combinations; the guiding principles
are flavour and the use of seasonal produce.
For smaller, rounder ingredients, skewering makes it easier
to grill over the robata, and is mostly done over a small pit
instead of on the wire rack, to ensure the ingredients don’t
stick. Choosing the right length of skewer is important here,
so the skewers sit comfortably over the pit. Flavours can be
added through marinades, with the addition of a tare sauce
or an additional garnish or sauce.
The following recipes are intended to inspire you to think
about and create your own skewers, and most of the
garnishes and sauces can be used in various combinations.
For more delicate dishes, such as smaller, thinner vegetables
like asparagus or okra, it makes a far neater dish if these are
lined up on two skewers; it is also easier to control the grilling
in this way. Always soak wooden skewers in water before
using to prevent them burning.
Baby Turnips with Miso Salt
Baby turnips – mini moolis (daikon) – are simply delicious.
These can be pickled or steamed, but work surprisingly well
on a skewer over the robata.
SERVES 4 | MAKES 8
12 baby turnips
olive oil
Sake-Mirin Spray
FOR THE MISO SALT
100g (31/2oz.) yellow miso
30g (1oz.) fine sea salt
You will need: 8 wooden skewers, soaked for 30 minutes in cold water
For the miso salt, preheat the oven to 120°C (250°F/Gas mark 1/2). Place a
silicone sheet on a baking tray, and spread the miso paste across the sheet in
a thin layer. Transfer to the oven for 3 hours, then leave to dry overnight in
a hot corner of your kitchen covered with a tea (dish) towel.
The following day the miso paste should be like a dry pulp; if still moist,return to the oven at the same temperature as the day before for a few hours.
In the summer I often dry these for an additional hour outside, too. When
completely dry, pulverize in a food processor. Mix with the salt and store in
a jar for up to 3 months, using liberally as an alternative to salt.
Start the robata grill.
Clean the baby turnips and cut in half. Steam for 2 minutes in a steamer,
then plunge straight into ice-cold water to cool down. Skewer three turnip
halves on to each skewer and brush with olive oil.
Place a wire rack over the robata pit and grill the turnips for a few minutes
on each side, spraying intermittently with the sake-mirin spray. Place on a
serving dish and sprinkle with miso salt.
Asparagus Wrapped in Beef Tskune
Tskune-wrapped asparagus works well with a good-quality
ground (minced) beef and the addition of sesame paste for a
little more flavour.
SERVES 4 | MAKES 8
1 small onion
1 large clove of garlic
400g (14oz.) minced (ground) beef (fat content 5%)
1 tbsp sesame paste or tahini
2 tbsp soy sauce
8 medium-thick, long asparagus spears
4 tbsp Tare Sauce
freshly ground black pepper
FOR THE PICKLED BABY TURNIPS
16–20 baby turnips
1 tbsp liquid kombu dashi
1 tsp fish sauce, Thai or Japanese
You will need: 8 wooden skewers, soaked for 30 minutes in cold water
For the pickles, cut the baby turnips in half, steam for 2–3 minutes in a
steamer until al dente, then plunge into ice-cold water to cool down. Drain
well, transfer the turnips to a zip-lock bag and pour in the kombu dashi and
fish sauce. Gently massage the dashi mixture into the turnips, fold over the
bag to remove as much air as possible, then leave to pickle in the fridge for
about 1 hour.
Peel the onion, then grate half on the coarse side of a grater and the other
half on the fine side. Peel the garlic and grate on the fine side of a grater.
Place the minced (ground) beef in a food processor, add the onion and
garlic, sesame paste, soy sauce and a little pepper. Whizz until combined,
but do not overwork the mixture.
Align the tips of the asparagus and trim the ends so they are all the same
length. Cut each into three equal pieces. Divide the beef mixture into 24
balls, then press each into a flat disc. Place a piece of asparagus in the
middle of the patty and wrap the mixture around it. Repeat until you have
24 log-shaped patties, then thread three on to each skewer. Cover and place
in the fridge for a few hours to firm up.
Start the robata grill. Brush each beef-wrapped asparagus skewer with a
little oil, then grill over the robata pit, rotating every 2 minutes and brushing
with tare sauce before rotating. Repeat until the skewers are cooked
through, with a nice covering of the tare sauce. Serve with the pickled baby
turnips.
Rib Eye with Wasabi
Wasabi is another cornerstone of Japanese cuisine, mostly
found in powder form and often made from horseradish,
mustard seeds and added wasabi flavouring. This is a great
product, but nothing beats real wasabi root, freshly grated.
This is now grown successfully outside Japan and available
online.
SERVES 4 | MAKES 8
10cm (4in.) piece of mooli (daikon)
1 small knob of fresh ginger
fresh wasabi root or 1 tsp good-quality wasabi powder
2 x 240g (81/2oz.) rib eye steaks
good-quality olive oil
Sake-Mirin Spray
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
You will need: 8 wooden skewers, soaked for 30 minutes in cold water
Start the robata grill.
Peel the mooli (daikon) and grate on the finest side of a grater. Squeeze out
any excess liquid, then repeat this process with the ginger. Grate the fresh
wasabi, if using, by rotating it on a specialist wasabi grater. If using wasabi
powder, add a teaspoon of water to the powder and mix until it is a smooth
paste, then divide into four loose dots. The wasabi loses its kick very
quickly, so this could be done just as the beef comes off the robata for
maximum impact.
Trim the fat line of the rib eye steaks and cut into cubes of 2 x 2cm (3/4 x 3/4
in.), about 32–36 equal-sized pieces of meat. Divide the beef between the
skewers. Brush with oil and season with salt and pepper.
Place the skewers across the robata pit, resting them on the two sides.
Rotate the beef and intermittently spray with sake-mirin spray until this
caramelizes on the edges. Place the skewers on a plate and garnish with the
mooli (daikon), ginger and wasabi.
Rump Steak with Mooli (Daikon) and
Kombu Dashi
This is another very simple robata dish, with the added
umami of kombu dashi jelly and grated mooli (daikon) as a
garnish. I cook my meat medium-rare, but check with your
dinner companion(s) as to how they like theirs. It is difficult to
specify an exact grilling time for the meat as there are so
many variables to consider, such as the temperature of the
grill, the fat content of the meat, the quality of the meat, and
the temperature of the meat as it goes on to the grill to name
a few. The touch method works well here: when rare, the
steak will feel soft and spongy; when medium-rare it is soft to
the touch with some resistance; medium will have some give;
and well done is firm to the touch – all broadly speaking.
SERVES 4 AS ONE OF 4–5 ROBATA DISHES
2 tbsp soy sauce
2 tbsp caster (superfine) sugar
2 tbsp liquid kombu dashi
5 x 5cm (2 x 2in.) piece of kombu seaweed
4 dried shiitake mushrooms
1 piece of agar agar, about 7g (1/4oz.)
2 rump steaks, on the bone (approx. 400–500g/14oz.–1lb. 11/2oz.)
10cm (4in.) piece of mooli (daikon)
olive oil
Sake-Mirin Spray
salt and freshly ground black pepper
You will need: 8 wooden skewers, soaked for 30 minutes in cold water
First, make the kombu dashi jelly. Add the soy sauce, sugar, liquid kombu
dashi, kombu seaweed, shiitake mushrooms and 100ml (scant 1/2 cup) water
to a small saucepan, bring to the boil and simmer for 20 minutes to infuse.
Drain the liquid through a sieve into a clean pan, discarding the kombu
seaweed and shiitake mushrooms, but leave the sieve sitting over the liquid.
In a separate pan, melt the agar agar in 11/2 tablespoons of water over a
gentle heat. Avoid stirring the agar, but tilt the pan gently from side to side
to ensure it is all melted. Once melted, add a few tablespoons of the warm
kombu liquid, stir gently, pour into the sieve sitting over the remainder of
the liquid, then stir again. Pour into a small square container and leave to
set for 1 hour in the fridge.
Start the robata grill. Season the steak with a little olive oil, salt and pepper,
and set aside. Peel the mooli (daikon) and grate on the finest side of a
grater. Squeeze the mooli (daikon) with your hands to remove any excess
liquid, and place in a small serving bowl.
Cut the rump steaks into 2 x 2cm (3/4 x 3/4in.) cubes, about 40 cubes in
total. Thread 4–5 pieces of meat on to each skewer. Season the meat with a
sprinkle of olive oil, salt and pepper, then grill over the robata pit until
medium-rare, rotating and spraying with the sake-mirin spray as the meat
cooks.
Set the skewers aside on a board and leave to rest for 10 minutes.
Meanwhile, cut the kombu dashi jelly into small squares and place in a
bowl. Transfer the skewers to a plate, and serve with the mooli (daikon) and
kombu dashi jelly.
◁ King Prawns (Shrimp)
I’ve always preferred king prawns (shrimp) over tiger prawns
(jumbo shrimp), despite the latter being more common in
Japanese cuisine. I recommend buying the finest quality
prawns (shrimp) and cooking them simply.
SERVES 4 AS ONE OF 4–5 ROBATA DISHES
1kg (2lb. 4oz.) frozen king prawns (shrimp), preferably MSC-certified
Sake-Mirin Spray
Defrost the prawns (shrimp) in the fridge in their pack in a shallow tray
overnight.
Start the robata grill. Remove the prawns (shrimp) from the pack, rinse
under cold running water and leave to drain in a colander for a few minutes.
These are cooked in their shell, but you do need to remove the intestine to
ensure they are not gritty. Insert a small metal skewer into the top of the
prawns (shrimp), between the head and the body. Ensure youget a good
grip beneath the intestine tube, then pull it out. If the intestine breaks in the
process, go further down the top of the prawn (shrimp) and repeat the
process; it will be visible to the eye through the shell. Wash the prawns
(shrimp) one more time.
When the coals are ready, grill the prawns (shrimp) on the griddle. When
they start taking on colour, rotate and spray with the sake-mirin spray to
keep them nice and moist. When the prawns (shrimp) are cooked – they
should be bright red – place on a serving dish.
Live and Let Dive: Scallops with
Seaweed Butter
Guy Grieve, a good friend and truly ethical fisherman, has
been fishing off the Isle of Mull in Scotland for the last
decade. Guy is literally foraging the seabed for the finest-
quality scallops, carefully selecting the correct size and
putting back smaller scallops in good hiding places until they
have grown to the perfect size. Scallops are best in the winter
when the sea is colder.
SERVES 4 | MAKES 4
1/2 tsp wakame seaweed
100g (31/2oz./1/2 cup) good-quality unsalted butter
1/2 tsp aonori seaweed
1/2 clove of garlic, finely chopped
squeeze of 1/4 lemon
12 scallops, cleaned and out of the shell
pinch of sea salt
You will need: 4 wooden skewers, soaked for 30 minutes in cold water
Start the robata grill. Place the wakame seaweed in a pestle and mortar or
small food processor and crush until a fine powder. Gently melt the butter
in a small saucepan, adding the wakame powder, aonori, garlic and lemon
juice. Pour into a shallow tray, large enough to hold a skewer.
Thread three scallops on to each skewer, then place over the robata pit,
rotating just as they take on colour, about 1–2 minutes. Dip or roll in the
seaweed butter and return to the robata for another minute to seal in the
flavours. Place all the skewers on a serving dish, sprinkle with the sea salt
and drizzle with the remainder of the butter.
Salmon Negishio
This is a simple recipe, which originated from Kyoto as a
Donburi-style dish, but it also works well as a chunky piece of
salmon with the sauce on top.
SERVES 4 | MAKES 8
1/4 side of salmon fillet
olive oil
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
FOR THE NEGISHIO DRESSING
100ml (scant 1/2 cup) sesame oil
1 spring onion (scallion), chopped into fine rings
1 tsp white sesame seeds
You will need: 16 wooden skewers, soaked for 30 minutes in cold water
Start the robata grill. First, make the negishio dressing. Add the sesame oil
to a bowl, then mix in the spring onion (scallion), white sesame seeds and a
sprinkle of sea salt.
Cut the salmon into small ‘half side’ steaks (shown here). Skewer each
piece with two skewers, then season with salt and pepper.
Place a wire rack over the robata pit, brush with oil and grill the salmon on
each side until just cooked; this will only take a few minutes. Place on a
rectangular serving dish, garnish with the negishio sauce and serve
immediately.
◁ Faux Unagi – Herring Kabayaki Style
Eel (unagi) is a very popular fish, both for sushi and as a street
snack, usually grilled and basted in a lovely sticky kabayaki
sauce. Unfortunately, the European eel population is on the
brink of collapse due to overfishing of glass eels to supply the
eel farms in the Far East. Until the eel population stabilizes, I
like to play around with alternatives. In this recipe I use
herring, which are similar to eels, with a fatty, meaty texture,
albeit they are a sea fish whereas the eel spends its mature
life in freshwater river systems.
Herring has again become one of the most sustainable fish
available, with the majority now being MSC-certified. It is
mostly eaten cured and pickled, as has been the tradition in
the northern hemisphere for over a thousand years. This
method was originally born out of necessity, as a way of
preserving this highly nutritious fatty fish; it is now a speciality
food, particularly enjoyed around the festive season. One
tricky part about herring is an additional set of bones; these
normally soften through traditional pickling, so you would not
notice them, but it is near impossible to serve herring
sashimi-style. I suggest you ask your fishmonger to butterfly
fillet the herring so the larger bones are all removed. Do not
worry about the very small bones hardly visible to the eye –
these will soften through the grilling.
SERVES 4 | MAKES 8
100ml (scant 1/2 cup) soy sauce
31/2 tbsp mirin
31/2 tbsp sake
4 tbsp soft brown sugar
2 tsp potato flour
8 medium herring
You will need: 16 wooden skewers, soaked for 30 minutes in cold water
Make the kabayaki sauce by placing the soy, mirin, sake and sugar in a
saucepan over a gentle heat and stirring until the sugar is melted, all the
ingredients are incorporated and the alcohol has evaporated. Mix the potato
flour in a little cold water, adding a little at a time to the sauce, and continue
to cook until you have a thick, sticky sauce, similar in consistency to runny
honey. Set aside.
Start the robata grill. To prepare the herring, cut each butterflied fillet across
the width of the fillet into two blocks, so you have two equal-sized half
fillets per portion. Now skewer two of the half fillets with two skewers
each, and repeat until you have eight portions.
When the robata is ready, place the herring skewers across the robata pit
and fry for a minute or so on each side, just to seal and take on colour. Baste
the herring with the kabayaki sauce, rotating repeatedly and continuing to
baste until you start to build up a nice caramelization on the fish. When
done, stack high on a plate ready for sharing, and serve with Japanese Slaw
with Garlic Mayo and Hibiki.
◁ Sardines Japanese-Style
Sardines in Japan are eaten in a very similar manner to those
in the Mediterranean, however there is a twist, and here they
are served in their Japanese configuration: with finely grated
wasabi, ginger and mooli (daikon), the holy trinity. This dish is
packed with omega 3 oils, benefiting from the counter
balance of the traditional Japanese condiments. In this recipe
I use fresh wasabi, available online, however this can be
replaced with powdered wasabi if not accessible.
SERVES 4 AS ONE OF 4–5 ROBATA DISHES
2 cloves of garlic
2 tbsp yuzu juice (alternatively, use grapefruit juice)
1 tsp shichimi chilli powder
6 shiso leaves or 1/2 bunch of mint leaves
12 small sardines, cleaned and gutted
10cm (4in.) piece of fresh ginger
10cm (4in.) piece of mooli (daikon)
1 fresh wasabi root (or 2 tbsp powder)
100ml (scant 1/2 cup) light soy sauce
olive oil
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
You will need: 12 fine metal skewers
Peel and crush the garlic and add to a mixing bowl with the yuzu juice,
shichimi chilli powder, 2 tablespoons of olive oil and a little sea salt and
freshly ground black pepper. Roll the shiso or mint leaves into a cylinder,
cut into fine strips and add to the marinade. Mix well. Place the sardines in
a shallow tray and spoon over the marinade, rub gently into the fish and
turn them over so they are fully covered. Leave to marinate for 30 minutes.
Start the robata grill. Meanwhile, prepare the garnish. Peel the ginger with a
spoon by scraping off the brown skin, then grate on the fine side of the
grater into a pulp, squeezing out the juice (the juice is not used, but do drink
it as a quick energizing shot). Divide the ginger pulp into four small balls.
Repeat this process with the mooli (daikon). To grate the wasabi, use a
specialist grater. Remove the outer layer at the end of the wasabi with a
very sharp knife, cutting away from yourself and creating a pointy edge to
start grating from. Thereafter, using gentle round movements, grate the
wasabi into a soft paste, getting as much out of one rhizome as possible.
Ensure to remove all the wasabi from the grater using a pastry or specialist
wasabi brush. If using wasabi powder, mix with a little water into a smooth
paste. Divide into four portions and arrange four dipping trays with a dot of
ginger, mooli (daikon) and wasabi in each.
Skewer thesardines through their length with a metal skewer, just to give
them some additional support. Place a wire rack over the robata pit, brush
with a little oil and grill the sardines for 2–3 minutes on each side until just
cooked through.
Place the sardines on a serving tray. Pour the light soy sauce into a dipping
tray and the dish is ready to eat. Encourage diners to mix the ginger, mooli
(daikon) and wasabi with the soy sauce, pick pieces of the sardines and dip
these in the mixture – perfect little mouthfuls.
◁ Baby Squid Stuffed with Mountain
Rice
This recipe is very delicate and quite fiddly, so do allow plenty
of time for stuffing the baby squid. I promise all the hard work
will pay off. This recipe includes Japanese Mountain Rice; you
will not need a full portion, so I suggest either halving the
recipe, or plan to serve the leftover rice as a side dish (which
would be easier). I allow for a few extra squid in this recipe just
in case a couple turn out slightly wobbly or split.
SERVES 4 | MAKES 8
10 fresh cleaned large baby squid
1/2 portion Japanese Mountain Rice
olive oil
Sake-Mirin Spray
You will need: 8–10 wooden skewers, soaked for 30 minutes in cold water
To prepare the squid, hold on to the body of the squid with one hand, and
with the other hand pull away the head, including intestines and tentacles.
Cut away the small head (and eyes) and discard. In the middle of the
tentacle sits a small beak-like mouth – pull this away and discard. Inside the
squid you will find a quill which looks like plastic – again, remove this and
discard. Now wash the squid tubes and tentacles and dab dry with kitchen
(paper) towel.
Place a frying pan (skillet) on the hob (stove top), add a generous dash of
olive oil and heat to smoking point. Fry the tentacles, repeatedly tossing
them until crisp and curly. Place on a chopping board, chop finely and add
to the mountain rice, mixing well.
To stuff the squid tube, make a short 1cm (1/2in.) slit at the opening of the
squid along its fold. Holding a tube in one hand, fold down the opening of
the squid to make it slightly larger, but without tearing the fish further. With
your other hand, gather a small handful of the rice mixture and gradually
stuff the tubes until just the top opening is unfilled, then fold this over and
secure with a skewer. Repeat until all the squid are stuffed.
Start the robata grill. Place a wire rack on the robata, brush the stuffed squid
with oil and place on the heat. Rotate every few minutes and spray with the
sake-mirin spray in between to add flavour. Place on a serving dish and
garnish with Kappa Pickles; serve with cutlery on this occasion, as they are
best enjoyed in slices.
◁ Octopus and Dashi Pickles
Octopus is possibly my favourite fish; to me it will always be a
testimony to a chef’s skills as the outcome reflects their
attitude to ingredients. Here, the octopus is served with fresh
pickles to complement this wonderful creature. It is not the
easiest of fish to work with. Octopus is a mollusc, but does not
benefit from a hard shell like other invertebrates such as
scallops and clams. There are many ways of tenderizing
octopus, through brine, vinegar-based cures, marinades and
slow cooking. The Japanese way is slightly different and
includes a gentle massage and a marinade. Fresh octopus is
not always easy to get hold of, but frozen octopus is mostly of
very good quality and works really well too. I recommend
buying this from a good fishmonger.
SERVES 4 | MAKES 8
3–4 octopus arms (about 500g/ 1lb. 11/2oz.)
2 tsp salt
2 tbsp sake
2 tbsp mirin
olive oil
FOR THE DASHI PICKLES
1 small mooli (daikon)
1/2 cucumber
10 round radishes
2 tbsp liquid kombu dashi
1 tsp fish sauce
You will need: 8 wooden skewers, soaked for 30 minutes in cold water
If using frozen octopus, ensure this is fully defrosted, preferably in the
fridge overnight in a colander over a bowl.
Rinse the octopus and place in a large plastic or metal mixing bowl,
sprinkle over the salt and massage the fish for 20 minutes, working the salt
into all parts of the fish. After 20 minutes, rinse off the salt and add the sake
and mirin to the bowl with the octopus. Mix well and place in a zip-lock
bag, squeeze out all the air, zip up the bag and fold over, then leave to cure
in the fridge for about 1 hour.
Peel the mooli (daikon) and split in half lengthways. Cut two-thirds into
half discs about 5mm (1/5in.) thick. Cut the remainder into very fine slices
on the finest setting of a Japanese mandoline. Split the cucumber
lengthways, and then again into quarters. Remove the seeds and discard,
then cut the cucumber into 1cm (1/2in.) pieces. Wash the radishes, keeping
the green tops, and cut each one in half.
Dilute the liquid kombu dashi in 3 tablespoons of cold water, then add the
fish sauce. Add all the vegetables to a freezer bag and pour in the pickling
liquid, shake well and roll up the bag tightly, getting rid of any air, then
seal. Leave to pickle for at least 1 hour, or keep in the fridge for up to 3
days.
Start the robata grill. Cut the octopus into 2cm (3/4 in.) pieces, thread on to
eight skewers, mixing the pieces so each skewer is even-sized, but ensuring
the pieces are not skewered too tightly. When the robata is ready, brush
each skewer with oil and place across the robata pit to grill. Grill on each
side for 2–3 minutes until they start taking on colour. Brush the octopus
with oil between each turn, and cook until crispy at the edges. Transfer to a
serving dish and serve with the pickles in a small bowl.
Baby Cuttlefish
Cuttlefish is another shellfish in the mollusc category, in the
same family as squid and octopus. Cuttlefish has the potential
to grow to an enormous size, but is mostly found at the
fishmonger or market at 500–700g (1lb. 11/2oz.– 1lb. 9oz.) in
weight, and 15–25cm (6–10in.) in length. It has an oval,
cushion-shaped body with eight arms and two tentacles
protruding from underneath its head. It is apparently a very
intelligent animal, with the largest brain-to-body ratio of all
the squid. In the UK we have fantastic cuttlefish, however a lot
is exported. At the start of the season I sometimes come
across baby cuttlefish at London’s Billingsgate Fish Market;
these are so tender and work well grilled by themselves or in
salads.
SERVES 4 | MAKES 8
1 tbsp sea salt
24–30 baby cuttlefish (about 500g/ 1lb. 11/2oz.), cleaned
olive oil
You will need: 8 wooden skewers, soaked for 30 minutes in cold water
Place the salt in a large bowl of water, clean the cuttlefish by gently
rubbing; if the small ink sac is attached, remove this with the innards. If the
cuttlefish are already cleaned, do still wash them in salted water. Drain and
dab dry with kitchen (paper) towel.
Start the robata grill. Prepare the cuttlefish by threading 3–4 cuttlefish on to
each skewer. When the robata pit is ready, brush the cuttlefish with oil and
grill over the coals, rotating every few minutes and brushing with more oil
until slightly charred at the edges, then serve.
◁ Duck Breasts with Coffee Sauce
This recipe was first introduced to me by a colleague, Masa
Tanaka, and to my great surprise the coffee sauce cut through
the duck breast very well. Originally made with sweet
condensed milk, I have given it my own little Nordic twist
using Skyr with local honey.
SERVES 4 AS ONE OF 4–5 ROBATA DISHES
60g (21/4oz.) fresh shiitake mushrooms
2 duck breasts, about 120g (41/4oz.)
1 shot of espresso
2 tbsp Skyr
2 tbsp soured cream
1 tbsp honey, preferably local
sea salt
Sake-Mirin Spray
You will need: 8 wooden skewers, soaked for 30 minutes in cold water
Start the robata grill.
Brush the mushrooms free of any dirt and cut into slices about 5mm (1/5in.)
thick. Score the duck breasts on the fatty side in a diamond pattern, with
score marks just 5mm (1/5in.) apart. Rub in some sea salt and cut each
breast into cubes. Thread them on to skewers, alternating between duck and
mushroom, ensuring not to pack them too tightly.
For the coffee sauce, mixthe shot of espresso (or alternatively, dilute a
good-quality instant coffee in 11/2 tablespoons of boiling water) with the
Skyr, soured cream and honey in a bowl to create a thick, shiny sauce.
When the coals are ready, grill the duck skewers directly over the robata pit,
moving them from intense flame to medium flame as necessary. Rotate as
the meat sears, spraying intermittently with the sake-mirin spray to add
moisture and control the flames.
When the duck is ready and the skin crisp, place on a serving platter and
add a little of the coffee sauce to each skewer.
◁ Tofu Lollies with 3 Toppings
These tofu sticks work best with a good-quality firm organic
tofu. This gives both the taste of fresh tofu and the perfect
little platform for a sauce to complement the delicacy of the
tofu. In this recipe there are three flavour variations: a fruity
seasonal miso compote, a fresh coriander (cilantro) shiso
pesto, and a fiery chilli jam. For the fruity seasonal miso
compote I have used rhubarb, but it also works well with
stone fruit such as plums, and soft fruits like blackberries or
raspberries.
Homemade chilli jam is a labour of love; it is ideal for pasta
dishes and stir-fries, and the depth and aroma of the chillies
will spread throughout the kitchen. I recommend making this
a few days in advance. Chilli jam is available from some Asian
grocers, but do watch out for MSG, as unfortunately this is
often added.
SERVES 4 | MAKES 12
11/2 packs firm organic tofu (drained weight about 400–500g/ 14oz.–1lb. 11/2oz.)
4 pieces of rhubarb
1/2 vanilla pod (bean)
1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
100g (31/2oz./1/2 cup) caster (superfine) sugar
50g (2oz.) white miso
4 tsp Coriander Pesto
4 tsp Chilli Jam
grapeseed oil
Sake-Mirin Spray
You will need: 24 wooden skewers, soaked for 30 minutes in cold water
Remove the tofu from its packaging, wrap in kitchen (paper) towel and
leave to allow the liquid to drain out.
For the rhubarb compote, peel the rhubarb by loosening the stringy ends
and pulling off the coarse outer layer. Cut the rhubarb into 3cm (11/4in.)
batons, place in a small saucepan and just cover with water. Split the vanilla
pod (bean) down the middle and add this to the rhubarb along with the
cinnamon and sugar. Cover and leave to simmer over a medium heat on the
hob (stove top), stirring the mixture at 5-minute intervals for about 20
minutes. Once softened, add the white miso and leave to rest in the
saucepan.
Start the robata grill. Cut the tofu block in half and half again, then cut each
piece into three equal-sized rectangular shapes. Skewer each with two
skewers and brush gently with grapeseed oil. Place all the skewers on a
griddle directly over the bincho coals, turning at 1–2-minute intervals and
spraying regularly with the sake-mirin spray to retain moisture and add
flavour. Repeat the process until the tofu is a light golden colour with a few
charred marks.
Place the tofu on a serving plate and top with a teaspoon of the rhubarb
compote, coriander pesto or chilli jam.
◁ Asparagus Namban
A favourite Japanese dish of mine is chicken namban, a weird
combination of West meets East – a tempura chicken in a
sweet and sour soy marinade, with an egg salad served on
top, a dish which apparently arrived in Japan with Portuguese
traders. It occurred to me that this Japanese version of an egg
salad would be great on top of asparagus; it is so addictive,
and works better than a warm béchamel as the cold egg
mixture and the piping hot asparagus complement one
another. Get ready for some messy eating!
SERVES 4 | MAKES 8
15 good-quality asparagus spears, in season
1 tbsp good-quality mayonnaise
1 tbsp natural yogurt
1 tsp rice vinegar
1 tsp French mustard
1 tbsp white miso
2 medium hard-boiled eggs
1/2 onion, finely chopped
1 stick of celery, cut into tiny cubes
2 shiso leaves
olive oil
salt and freshly ground black pepper
You will need: 16 wooden skewers, soaked for 30 minutes in cold water
Start the robata grill. Bring a large saucepan of salted water to the boil and
blanch the asparagus for 2 minutes, then plunge into ice-cold water. Drain
and leave to dry on kitchen (paper) towel.
In a mixing bowl, combine the mayonnaise, yogurt, rice vinegar, French
mustard and white miso until all incorporated. Peel the hard-boiled eggs
and use a fork to mash the eggs into small pieces, then add to the bowl with
the onion and celery. Set aside in the fridge to cool and firm a little.
Roll up the shiso leaves and chop into shreds. Align five asparagus spears
with the tips together, and starting from the top cut them into 5cm (2in.)
pieces. Repeat with the remaining asparagus. Make little blocks of five
pieces of asparagus, skewer with two skewers to secure, and repeat to make
eight skewers. Brush with oil and place over a small rack on the robata grill.
Grill for about 2 minutes on each side, turning 4–5 times until they are
cooked through and gently charred on the edges. Place one set on top of
another, then top with the egg mixture, sprinkle with shiso leaves and serve.
VARIATION:
Sometimes asparagus is so good that it just calls for a
simple sprinkling of good-quality sea salt. Follow the
instructions above, but omit the namban egg salad and
simply sprinkle the asparagus with flaky sea salt when ready
to serve.
nibbles
Most Japanese meals are accompanied by a selection of small
side dishes, often consisting of vegetables, tofu or lighter
bites, gently seasoned with soy, mirin and kombu dashi – little
plates of freshly made pickles, or tofu dressed in an umami-
based sauce, served chilled or hot depending on the season.
They are eaten as appetizers or alongside the main meal.
Nibbles are also great served with drinks while waiting for
main dishes to come off the robata grill.
Miso soup is one of the cornerstones of a Japanese meal.
Miso really is the elixir of life, packed with beneficial bacteria
from the fermenting process, so it’s not only a cooking
ingredient but the base of a very healthy and satisfying dish. I
have included a miso soup recipe here – slightly salty, savoury,
and based on fermented soy bean paste, it is delicious,
promoting longevity and good health.
Another popular appetizer are edamame beans, fresh soy
beans served in the shell, and with the highest protein count
of any vegetable. Commonly steamed and served with a
sprinkle of sea salt, they work well grilled on the robata too,
with a soy- or miso-based dipping sauce.
Panko-Crusted Yuzu Tofu
This dish of shallow-fried tofu bites is utterly delicious served
in a simple yuzu dipping sauce.
SERVES 4
1 pack firm tofu (drained weight about 340g/12oz.)
2 tbsp yuzu juice
1 tbsp honey (preferably local)
1 tbsp mirin
1 unwaxed lemon
1 large free-range egg
50g (2oz./1/3 cup) plain (all-purpose) flour
pinch of salt
100g (31/2oz./2 cups) panko breadcrumbs
300ml (11/4 cups) grapeseed (or sunflower) oil, for frying
shiso cress
Drain the tofu and wrap in kitchen (paper) towel (without any patterns or
marks) to draw out the liquid. Repeat the process with a fresh piece of
kitchen (paper) towel and leave to rest while preparing the dipping sauce.
Mix 1 tablespoon of yuzu with the honey and mirin in a bowl. Remove the
peel from half the lemon with a peeler, ensuring you only take the peel and
none of the white flesh. Chop the lemon peel into fine strips and set aside.
Grate the zest of the other half of the lemon on a microplane grater and set
aside. Cut the lemon in half and add all the juice to the yuzu dipping sauce.
Whisk the egg in a shallow dish and add the remaining tablespoon of yuzu.
Place the flour in another shallow dish and season with the salt. Add the
panko breadcrumbs to a third shallow dish and mix in the finely grated
lemon zest.
Cut the tofu block into 12 rectangular pieces. Now work in three batches
(you will need to rinse your hands between batches as it gets messy), first
pressing the tofu into the flour, then dipping in the egg and finally pressing
into the panko, ensuring all sides are well coated.Set aside on a large plate
and repeat the process with the rest of the tofu.
Heat the oil in a shallow pan or small wok. When the oil reaches 180°C
(350°F), fry the tofu in two batches. After 1 minute, turn the tofu pieces and
fry for 1 more minute for an even golden colour. Add to a rectangular
serving dish, garnish with lemon peel strips and shiso cress, and gently pour
the dipping sauce into the base of the dish. Serve hot.
Lemongrass-Poached Mussels
Wrapping small shellfish such as mussels, clams and cockles
in foil parcels and steaming on the robata grill works wonders.
SERVES 4
500g (1lb. 11/2oz.) small Blue Rope Mussels
1 stalk of lemongrass
5 shiso leaves
31/2 tbsp mirin
31/2 tbsp sake
1 small clove of garlic, finely chopped
Start the robata grill. Place the mussels in a bowl of cold water, rub clean on
the outside, and discard any open shells which do not close when tapped.
Rinse once more and leave to drip in a colander. Bash the end of the
lemongrass with the handle of your knife to bruise it. Roll up the shiso
leaves and finely chop into shreds, then set aside. Combine the mirin and
sake together in a bowl.
Take a large piece of foil, place the mussels in the middle and fold up the
edges a little. Pour in the liquid, sprinkle with the garlic, and place the
lemongrass on top. Close the parcel, allowing plenty of space inside for the
steam to work its magic.
Place the parcel on a wire rack over the bincho coals and leave to steam for
8–10 minutes; take a peek by opening the parcel in one corner to see if the
mussels have started to open. When all of the mussels are cooked, gently
pour into a shallow serving bowl, removing any unopened shells. Sprinkle
with the shiso leaves and serve, encouraging your guests to scoop up the
poaching juices with the shells. This dish works well with the Aonori
Flatbread to soak up the juices.
Miso Soup
To many Japanese, a meal is not complete without miso soup.
It has a fantastic savoury, smooth flavour and great health
benefits, including natural probiotics developed through the
fermentation of the soy bean into miso. Miso is also naturally
high in protein and low in fat. Sometimes hon dashi, made
from cured and dried bonito fish, is added, but actually
kombu, shiitake and a hint of onion work equally well for a
vegan boost of umami. Use yellow miso in this recipe; I
recommend trying various brands until you find the flavour
that seems right for you. Traditionally, miso is served with
wakame, tofu and spring onion (scallion). This soup is to be
drunk straight from the miso bowl, and chopsticks used to
pick up the wonderful garnish. It is not customary to serve the
soup with a spoon and it is actually a bit of a faux pas to do so
when it comes to Japanese etiquette.
SERVES 4
1 small onion
4 dried shiitake mushrooms
10 x 10cm (4 x 4in.) piece of kombu
1.5 litres (6 cups) boiling water
100g (31/2oz.) yellow miso
5g (1/6oz.) wakame seaweed
1/2 x 340g (12oz.) pack silken tofu
2 spring onions (scallions)
Peel the onion and cut in half, then add to a saucepan with the shiitake
mushrooms, kombu and water. Return to the boil and leave to simmer over
a low heat for 20 minutes. Add the miso and leave to simmer for a further
10 minutes, until the miso has dissolved into the soup.
Remove the kombu, shiitake and onion and discard. Add the wakame
seaweed and leave to simmer for a further 5 minutes until it has bloomed.
Meanwhile, cube the tofu and place in four miso bowls. Peel, rinse and trim
the spring onions (scallions), then cut into fine slices.
Ladle the miso soup over the tofu, ensuring there is an equal share of
wakame in each. Garnish with the spring onions (scallions) and serve.
Lotus Crisp with Fresh Crab
Taramasalata
If you can, I recommend hand-picking your own crab meat for
the best flavour. Alternatively, buy the finest sustainable ready
picked crab from a coastal fishery local to you.
SERVES 4
1 lotus root
500ml (2 cups) grapeseed (or sunflower) oil, for frying
300g (101/2oz.) brown crab meat
2 egg yolks
1 clove of garlic, finely chopped
juice of 1/2 lemon
100ml (scant 1/2 cup) olive oil
200g (7oz.) white crab claw meat
sea salt
freshly grated nutmeg
cayenne pepper, to sprinkle
Peel the lotus root. On the finest setting on a Japanese mandoline, slice the
lotus into paper-thin discs and leave to rest in cold water for 20 minutes or
so.
Drain the lotus crisps, spread flat on a tea (dish) towel and press dry. Heat
the grapeseed oil in a small wok or shallow pan and fry the lotus root until
just golden. Remove from the hot oil, place on a lined baking tray and
season with sea salt.
Push the brown crab meat through a sieve, pressing a wooden spoon against
the sides to remove all liquid. Set a heatproof bowl over a pan of simmering
water and gently heat. Add the egg yolks and whisk until you have a
smooth emulsion. Add the garlic and lemon juice and stir in. Now drizzle in
the olive oil in a gentle stream, stirring constantly to ensure the egg mixture
doesn’t cook, and carry on until all the olive oil is absorbed. Add the brown
crab meat and stir for a few minutes until heated through. Remove from the
heat so as not to overcook, and pour into a shallow dish.
Place the white crab meat on top of the brown crab mixture. Season with
grated nutmeg and a sprinkle of cayenne pepper, and serve alongside the
lotus crisps.
Shishito (Padron) Peppers
Shishito peppers are very popular at your typical robata joint
across Japan. They are similar to Spanish padron peppers,
widely available across Europe.
SERVES 4
500g (1lb. 11/2oz.) shishito (padron) peppers
2 tbsp olive oil
sea salt
Start the robata grill. Wash the peppers, drain in a colander and place on
kitchen (paper) towel, folding it over to dab the peppers dry. Put a grid over
the hot bincho coals and grill the peppers until just charred and slightly
collapsing.
Place in a mixing bowl, add the olive oil and mix until all the peppers are
coated. Pour into a small shallow dish, sprinkle with sea salt, and serve.
Yuzu Miso-Marinated Salmon Bites
For this recipe, we are using good-quality fresh salmon,
however there is no need to use the prime cuts as the tail part
or brown meat is perfectly suitable for this recipe as long as it
is a good-quality responsibly farmed salmon. The miso works
wonders on the raw salmon as the fermented soy bean cures
the salmon, while the yuzu adds a sharpness to the taste, but
without the acidity of the yuzu ‘cooking’ the salmon as
sometimes happens when a tartare or ceviche is left to
marinate a little too long (we are talking minutes here).
SERVES 4 | MAKES 8
2 tbsp sweet miso
1 tsp mirin
1 tsp yuzu juice
100g (31/2oz.) fresh salmon (use offcuts if available)
10g (1/3oz.) mixed sesame seeds
1/4 bunch of chives
8 shiso leaves
alfalfa sprouts, to garnish
coriander (cilantro) micro cress, to garnish
In a small mixing bowl, combine the miso, mirin and yuzu into a smooth
paste. Chop the salmon by hand into pieces no larger than 5 x 5mm (1/5 x
1/5 in.), then add to the dressing. Add the sesame seeds and chives and stir
all the ingredients until fully incorporated. Leave to marinate for 10
minutes.
Place the shiso leaves on a serving dish, spoon the salmon mixture equally
between the eight leaves. Garnish with alfalfa sprouts and coriander
(cilantro) micro cress, and the bites are ready to serve.
Chilled Tofu Agadashi
This is a classic dish, most often served warm in the winter
months as a small appetizer or as a component of the
traditional Japanese meal. For the hot version, the dipping
sauce is served warm and the tofu coated in cornflour
(cornstarch) and shallow-fried. There is a robata version shown
here.
This dish works well served in individual bowls as an
opening course to the headline acts coming off the robata.
The recipe includes dashi, the Japanese stock so essential to
much of Japanese cooking. It is simple to make providing you
have access to katsuobushi and kombu (shown here), both
available from Japanese grocery storesor online. For a vegan
version, the go-to product would be liquid kombu dashi;
check the packaging and if it contains corn syrup, omit the
mirin to adjust the sweetness.
SERVES 4
1 pack soft silken tofu (drained weight 160g/51/2oz.)
11/2 tbsp mirin
11/2 tbsp light soy sauce
small piece of fresh ginger
1 heaped tsp wasabi powder
2 spring onions (scallions), chopped into fine rings
FOR THE DASHI
100ml (scant 1/2 cup) filtered or mineral water
5 x 5cm (2 x 2in.) piece of dried kombu
2 small handfuls bonito flakes (about 10g/1/3oz.)
Drain the tofu and wrap in kitchen (paper) towel (without any patterns or
marks) to draw out the liquid. Place on a plate and leave in the fridge to
firm and chill for 30 minutes.
Make the dashi: pour the water into a small saucepan and bring to a simmer
(not boiling). Wipe clean the kombu with a damp cloth and add to the water.
Add two-thirds of the bonito flakes to the simmering water for 2 minutes,
then remove the saucepan from the heat and leave to infuse for 20 minutes.
After 20 minutes, run the liquid through a sieve, discarding the bonito
flakes and kombu and retaining the liquid. Add the mirin and soy sauce,
mix well and place in the fridge to cool down.
Peel the ginger and grate on the finest blade of a traditional grater. Add a
teaspoon of cold water to the wasabi powder to make a firm paste, and
divide into four portions, then shape into small round balls.
Remove the tofu from the fridge and cut into four equal-sized squares, place
in small shallow bowls, garnish with wasabi, grated ginger, spring onions
(scallions) and the remaining bonito flakes. Just before serving, pour the
chilled dashi into the base of each bowl and serve with a spoon.
Grilled Baby Gem with Miso and
Honey
Local honey is a cure for all ills, boosting our immune systems.
I reach for it at the first sign of a cold; without the bees we
would literally be doomed.
SERVES 4
4 baby gem lettuces
1 tbsp dark red miso
100ml (scant 1/2 cup) olive oil
1 tbsp soy sauce
juice of 1/2 lemon
FOR THE DRESSING
1 small clove of garlic
pinch of sea salt
2 tbsp white miso
1 tbsp local honey
1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
You will need: 16 wooden skewers, soaked in cold water for 30 minutes
Remove and discard the outer layer of the lettuces and cut each one in half.
Wash gently under running water and leave to dry on kitchen (paper) towel
for 20 minutes, cut edge facing down.
Dissolve the red miso in the olive oil, whisking gently with a small whisk,
and add the soy sauce and lemon juice. Dress the baby gem in the miso oil,
ensuring the oil penetrates in between the layers of leaves without peeling
them apart, as you want the baby gem to stay tightly packed for the grilling.
Start the robata grill. Place the garlic and sea salt in a pestle and mortar and
pulp until the garlic is smashed and you have an even paste. Add the white
miso and work it into the garlic, followed by the honey. Gradually drizzle in
the extra-virgin olive oil, and carry on grinding until you have a smooth
dressing.
Skewer each piece of lettuce with two skewers, one either side, to hold it
together. Place cut side down on the robata and char a little before rotating.
Repeat a few times, ensuring the lettuce doesn’t burn; they only need a few
minutes. Place on a serving plate, cut edge upwards and drizzle with the
dressing.
Steamed/Grilled Edamame with Sea
Salt
Steamed and salted edamame, the most famous of all
Japanese appetizers, can also be given the robata treatment
for a smoky flavour.
SERVES 4
200g (7oz.) edamame beans, in their pods
11/2 tbsp soy sauce
11/2 tbsp mirin
11/2 tbsp olive oil
sea salt
lime wedges
You will need: a frying basket to place over the bincho coals
Start the robata grill. Ensure the edamame are fully defrosted (leave them
out of the freezer for 1 hour, or overnight in the fridge). In a mixing bowl,
combine the soy sauce, mirin and olive oil, then add the edamame and toss
well until fully covered.
Add the edamame to the frying basket and place it across the robata pit,
tossing occasionally until slightly charred on the edges and piping hot.
Decant into a serving bowl and sprinkle with sea salt. Add wedges of lime
and serve.
salads+sides
The Japanese bowl: a beautiful handcrafted container with its
own character. I like to choose the perfect size to show off the
beauty of its contents to the recipient. Bowl food is ingrained
in Japanese culture, from traditional noodle dishes to the
newer incarnations of the poke bowl and buddha bowl – the
ideal vessel for individual eating.
Salads in their modern configuration as a bowl food are not
traditionally eaten in Japan, but have become popular in
Asian-themed restaurants globally as a brilliant way of using
seasonal produce and including some of the great Japanese
ingredients available. With the growing interest in complex
carbohydrates and ancient grains, using brown rice, quinoa
and seeds has been a natural development, as most of these
are widely available in traditional Japanese cuisine – bar the
excellent quinoa, which is a newcomer to most of us and is in
fact a seed, not a grain, hence its high protein count.
This chapter features a selection of salad bowls, which can
be eaten alone or as a side with a selection of robata dishes. I
would include at least two of these dishes in a robata setting
to balance the meal.
◁ Buckwheat, Papaya and Tofu Salad
Buckwheat is used for soba noodles in Japan, which contain
either 100% buckwheat or a combination of buckwheat and
wheat flours. They are served chilled on ice with a soy dipping
sauce with wasabi, spring onion (scallion) and ginger. Due to
its durability, buckwheat was grown in mountainous areas
where other crops would struggle, but these days Japan
imports a lot of its buckwheat.
SERVES 4 AS A SIDE DISH
1 pack organic firm tofu (drained weight about 325g/111/2oz.)
300g (101/2oz./2 cups) roasted buckwheat
1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
1 ripe papaya
50g (2oz.) edamame beans (podded and frozen)
1 tbsp black sesame seeds
1 tbsp black chia seeds
1 tbsp poppy seeds
2 eggs
plain (all-purpose) flour, for dusting
300ml (11/4 cups) sunflower oil, for frying
1/2 portion Red Onion Pickles
salt and freshly ground black pepper
FOR THE PAPAYA DRESSING
dried papaya seeds (from the papaya above, see recipe)
1 clove of garlic
1 tsp wasabi powder
2 tsp yuzu juice
31/2 tbsp olive oil
Remove the tofu from its packaging, wrap in kitchen (paper) towel and
leave to draw out the liquid.
Rinse the buckwheat in cold water, drain, and place in a saucepan, covered
with water so that the water line is 1cm (1/2in.) above the buckwheat. Bring
to the boil, leave to simmer for 17 minutes, then remove from the heat and
leave to rest for 17 minutes. Season the buckwheat with the olive oil, salt
and pepper, and leave to cool completely.
Preheat the oven to 120°C (250°F/Gas mark 1/2). Cut the papaya in half,
scoop out the seeds, place on a baking tray and cook in the oven for 20
minutes to dry. Scoop out the papaya flesh and chop roughly. Leave the
edamame to defrost on a plate.
Now prepare the tofu for its chia seed crust. In a pestle and mortar, crush
the black sesame seeds coarsely, decant into a bowl and mix with the chia
and poppy seeds, then season with freshly ground pepper and salt. Crack
the eggs into a bowl and whisk. Add the flour to a third bowl. Cut the tofu
into 2 x 2cm (3/4 x 3/4 in.) squares. In batches, dust the tofu first in the flour,
then dip in the egg, and finally press into the seed mixture until fully
coated. Repeat until all the tofu is done.
To make the dressing, crush the papaya seeds in a pestle and mortar. Add
the garlic and a pinch of salt, crush and incorporate into a paste. Add the
wasabi and yuzu, mix well, and when smooth, gradually add the oil to make
a dressing.
Heat the oil in a wok, fry the tofu in two batches for 2 minutes each, and
leave to drain on kitchen (paper) towel.
In a salad bowl, place the buckwheat and the red onion pickles. Add the
papaya flesh,edamame and half the dressing. Scatter the tofu on top and
drizzle with the remaining dressing.
◁ Japanese Green Bean Salad with
Crispy Tofu
Soy is one of the cornerstones of the Japanese diet. I often
had a salad on the menu celebrating the various versions of
soy in one dish – a protein on protein festival. This dish is
highly nutritious, the perfect vegan feast, and really packs a
punch.
SERVES 4 AS A SIDE DISH
1 pack organic firm tofu (drained weight about 325g/111/2oz.)
100g (31/2oz.) French green beans
100g (31/2oz.) edamame beans (podded and frozen)
100g (31/2oz./3/4 cup) unblanched almonds
2 tbsp soy sauce
2 tbsp honey
100g (31/2oz.) mixed baby leaves
100g (31/2oz.) mangetout (snow peas)
2 tbsp cornflour (cornstarch)
150ml (2/3 cup) sunflower oil, for frying
1/2 white salad onion, finely sliced
salt and freshly ground black pepper
FOR THE YUZU-MIRIN DRESSING
2 cloves of garlic, crushed
2 tbsp mild American mustard
1 tbsp caster (superfine) sugar
11/2 tbsp soy sauce
2 tbsp sushi vinegar
31/2 tbsp yuzu juice
3 tbsp mirin
200ml (3/4 cup) extra-virgin olive oil
Remove the tofu from its packaging, wrap in kitchen (paper) towel and
leave to draw out the liquid.
Trim the green beans and cut in half. Bring 1 litre (4 cups) of water to the
boil in a medium saucepan with a steamer on top. Steam the beans and
edamame for 2 minutes, then plunge into iced water to retain the colour and
cool them down.
Roast the almonds in a dry frying pan, and when they have taken on colour,
add the soy sauce and honey. Stir for a few minutes to ensure all the
almonds are coated. Place on baking parchment to cool down.
Wash the baby leaves and dry them in a salad spinner. Slice the mangetout
(snow peas) into three pieces on the diagonal.
For the dressing, place the garlic in a food processor with the mustard and
sugar, and give everything a whizz until all is incorporated. Add the soy
sauce, sushi vinegar, yuzu and mirin, turn the machine back on, and after a
few minutes gradually add the olive oil until the dressing is smooth and
even.
Cut the tofu into 2 x 2cm (3/4 x 3/4 in.) squares. Season the cornflour
(cornstarch) with salt and pepper and dust the tofu in the seasoned flour.
Heat the oil in a wok and fry the tofu for 3 minutes until crisp all over, then
drain on a piece of kitchen (paper) towel.
Place the soy-coated almonds on a chopping board and chop roughly.
Assemble all the ingredients in a salad bowl with 3–4 tablespoons of the
dressing, and toss until all is mixed well. The remaining dressing will keep
for up to 2 weeks in the fridge, but shake well before use.
◁ Herb-Cured Tofu on Soba Noodles
This recipe uses a Chinese black vinegar in the dressing,
adding sweetness and aroma to the dish.
SERVES 4 AS A SIDE DISH
1 pack firm tofu (drained weight about 340g/12oz.)
8 shiso leaves or 16 mint leaves
1/2 large bunch of coriander (cilantro) leaves, finely chopped
1/2 large bunch flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
10 sprigs of chives, snipped into rings
4 tbsp olive oil
1 x 250g (9oz.) pack soba noodles
2 tbsp black vinegar
1 tbsp liquid kombu dashi
100g (31/2oz) rocket (arugula) leaves
100g (31/2oz.) Red Onion Pickles
200g (7oz.) cherry tomatoes, halved
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Remove the tofu from its packaging, wrap in kitchen (paper) towel and
leave to draw out the liquid. Roll up the shiso or mint leaves and cut into
strips.
Mix all the herbs together in a bowl with 2 tablespoons of olive oil and
season with salt and pepper. Cut the tofu into 1 x 1 cm (1/2 x 1/2in.) cubes
and add to the bowl, turning gently in the marinade to ensure it is fully
covered.
Cook the noodles according to the packet instructions, for 7–8 minutes,
until al dente. Drain and rinse under cold running water for a few minutes;
this gives the noodles a nice shine.
Make the salad dressing by combining the black vinegar, kombu dashi and
the remaining olive oil in a bowl or jug and mixing well.
In a large salad bowl, add the soba noodles, rocket (arugula), red onion
pickles, cherry tomatoes and half the dressing and mix well. Scatter the tofu
pieces on top and drizzle the remainder of the dressing over all the
ingredients.
Seaweed Salad with Smooth Wasabi
Dashi Dressing
Seaweed has been eaten in Far East Asia for centuries, and is
part of the daily diet. Full of nutrients and very sustainable, it
is perfect for salads.
SERVES 4 AS A SIDE DISH
20g (3/4oz.) kaiso seaweed mix
20cm (8in.) piece of mooli (daikon)
2 tbsp wasabi powder
2 tbsp honey (preferably local)
2 tbsp liquid kombu dashi
80–100ml (1/3–scant 1/2 cup) grapeseed oil
Place the seaweed in a large bowl, top up with 2 litres (8 cups) of cold
water and add some ice. Peel the mooli (daikon), cut in half and grate on the
fine setting of a Japanese mandoline. Add to another mixing bowl and cover
with ice-cold water.
Now make the dressing: mix the wasabi with a little water to create a
smooth paste, and add to a food processor with the honey and liquid kombu
dashi. Whizz to form a smooth paste, then gradually add the grapeseed oil
until you have a good emulsion.
Drain the mooli (daikon), rinse a couple of times, then drain again. Drain
the seaweed. Place the mooli (daikon) in a large serving bowl, top with the
seaweed, then drizzle over the dressing and serve.
Green Beans and Sugar Snap Peas in
Mustard Miso
A great little side dish with plenty of crunch.
SERVES 4 AS A SIDE DISH
300g (101/2oz.) green beans
100g (31/2oz.) edamame beans (podded and frozen)
200g (7oz.) sugar snap peas
1 cos lettuce
FOR THE DRESSING
2 tbsp miso paste
1 tbsp wholegrain mustard
1 tsp Dijon mustard
1 tsp red wine vinegar
1/2 small red onion
1 clove of garlic
1 tsp pumpkin seed oil
grapeseed oil
First prepare the dressing. In a bowl or jug, combine the miso paste with the
mustards and the red wine vinegar. Grate the red onion and crush the garlic,
then add to the mixture with the pumpkin seed oil. Mix well and gradually
add enough grapeseed oil to make a thick, smooth emulsion. Set aside.
Trim the green beans at either end, then cut in half. Steam all three beans
together in a steamer, then plunge into ice-cold water to cool down and
retain their colour.
Wash the cos lettuce leaves, tear into large pieces and set aside in a
colander.
Drain the beans, then add to a serving bowl with the lettuce leaves. Toss
through the dressing and serve.
Heritage Tomato, Wakame and Dashi
Salad
This recipe really is a triple umami feast, including the fifth
taste element in three different food sources: tomatoes,
seaweed and dashi. The tomatoes in this recipe are mixed
heritage tomatoes, but could be any perfectly ripe tomato; if
growing your own, this recipe would be even more perfect.
The dressing uses liquid kombu dashi, but would also work
with a homemade dashi (shown here), although the dish
would no longer be vegetarian.
SERVES 4 AS A SIDE DISH
10g (1/3oz.) dried wakame seaweed
1 tbsp wasabi powder
1 tbsp honey (preferably local)
1 tbsp light soy sauce
31/2 tbsp liquid kombu dashi
11/2 tbsp olive oil
300g (101/2oz.) sun-ripe heritage tomatoes
flaky sea salt
Add the wakame seaweed to a bowl and pour over 500ml (2 cups) of cold
water. Leave to unfold for at least 10 minutes.
Meanwhile, make the dressing. In a bowl, mix the wasabi powder with 1
tablespoon of water to create a paste. Add the honey, soy sauce and kombu
to a mixing bowl and whisk well. When all the ingredients are incorporated,
gradually add the oil a little at a time, whisking constantly until combined
as a luscious dressing.
Drain the wakame seaweed in a colander. Rinse the tomatoes, cut into
quarters and place on a serving dish. Arrange the wakame seaweed in little
pockets among the tomato wedges, drizzle with the dashi dressing and
season with sea salt.
Early Summer Salad of Asparagus,
Carrot and Mangetout (Snow Peas)
This salad awaits the arrival of local asparagus, but when it
comes into season it should almost be eaten daily. So here is a
Japanese version which works verywell as an
accompaniment to robata dishes. All the vegetables are
steamed separately for a few minutes, and it is very important
to have a bowl of iced water to hand for instant cooling and to
retain colour.
SERVES 4 AS A SIDE DISH
100g (31/2oz.) mizuna or rocket (arugula) leaves
1 bunch of asparagus
1 bunch of young carrots
100g (31/2oz.) mangetout (snow peas)
50g (2oz.) edamame beans (podded and frozen)
100ml (scant 1/2 cup) sesame paste or tahini
1 tbsp honey (preferably local)
2 tbsp light soy sauce
squeeze of lemon juice
10g (1/3 oz.) mixed sesame seeds
Rinse the mizuna thoroughly, then spin in a salad spinner to dry and set
aside. Trim the woody end of the asparagus; if the spears are young and
have just come into season, the majority of the stalk will be fresh and
crunchy, so do not overdo this process. Wash in cold water and cut each
spear into three pieces on the diagonal. Remove the tops from the carrots,
but leave about 2cm (3/4in.) of green stalks – these are edible and look
pretty too. With a clean kitchen pad/scourer, gently scrub the carrots to
remove any dirt, wash in cold water, then cut into quarters lengthways, and
then again into 2–3 pieces each, to approximately the same length as the
asparagus. Wash the mangetout (snow peas), stack in piles of three, then cut
each pile into three pieces on the diagonal.
Heat a little water in a saucepan with a steamer on top. Have a large bowl of
ice-cold water ready nearby. Steam the vegetables separately, plunging each
one into ice-cold water straight after cooking to retain the colour and
crunch. Steam the asparagus for 3 minutes, the carrots for 3–6 minutes – do
check these with a pointy knife; they should be firm to the touch and al
dente – and the mangetout (snow peas) for 2 minutes. Steam the edamame
beans for 2 minutes – they are ready when bright green – then plunge into
the ice-cold water. Leave all the vegetables to cool in the iced water while
making the dressing.
In a mixing bowl, add the sesame paste, honey, soy sauce and lemon juice,
and mix well until all the ingredients are incorporated. Drain the steamed
vegetables. Place the mizuna leaves in the base of a salad bowl, arrange the
steamed veg rustic-style on top, sprinkle with sesame seeds, and finally
drizzle with the sesame dressing and serve.
Summer Salad of Okra, Tomatoes
and Toasted Quinoa
For this recipe I would use the best-quality ripe local
tomatoes available. I am using heritage tomatoes combined
with extra tiger tomatoes, as their tartness works perfectly
with the grilled okra.
SERVES 4 AS ONE OF 4–5 ROBATA DISHES
400g (14oz.) medium okra
1 tbsp good-quality olive oil
juice of 1/2 lemon
100ml (scant 1/2 cup) sunflower oil
100g (31/2oz/2/3 cup) quinoa
80g (3oz./1/2 cup) whole almonds, skin on
200g (7oz.) mixed baby leaves, washed
4–5 heritage tomatoes, cut into quarters or eighths of roughly similar size
4 green tiger tomatoes, cut into quarters or eighths of roughly similar size
4 shiso leaves or a handful of mint leaves, roughly chopped
handful of dill, stalks removed, roughly chopped
Sake-Mirin Spray
salt and freshly ground black pepper
FOR THE DRESSING
1 x 3cm (11/4in.) piece of fresh ginger, peeled and grated
1 small clove of garlic, peeled and grated
1 tsp wasabi powder
2 tbsp honey
juice of 1/2 lemon
1 tbsp sushi vinegar
3 tbsp good-quality olive oil
Start the robata grill. Wash the okra and drain in a colander, then cut one
tiny slit in the side of each okra to allow the steam to escape when grilling.
Dress the okra in the olive oil and lemon juice, then season with salt and
pepper.
Heat the sunflower oil in a small, heavy-based saucepan and fry the quinoa
until golden and toasted, about 15 minutes. Place a sieve over a bowl, line
with a piece of kitchen (paper) towel and drain the quinoa, leaving it to drip
while preparing the rest of the salad.
To make the dressing, place the ginger and garlic in a food processor. Mix
the wasabi with an equal amount water to form a smooth paste and add to
the processor with the honey, lemon juice and sushi vinegar. Gradually add
the olive oil until you reach a smooth emulsion, then set aside.
Place a wire rack over the smouldering coals, place the okra on the rack and
grill until slightly charred, rotating a few times while spraying with the
sake-mirin spray to keep them moist. Meanwhile, toast the almonds in a
small frying pan (skillet) on the robata grill.
Now assemble the salad in a large serving dish. Place the salad leaves at the
base, top with the tomatoes and okra, then dress with the dressing and
sprinkle with quinoa, fresh herbs and toasted almonds.
Paper-Thin Seasonal Salad
This salad works well with a lot of seasonal vegetables. For
best results, I recommend using a Japanese mandoline on its
finest setting. Caution is required here, as a standard rite of
passage for any aspiring chef or home cook is to slice half a
fingertip off on this very sharp instrument. The mandoline
comes with a guard and I highly recommend using this to
ensure the vegetables are firmly secured against the blade.
For the spring version, suggestions for vegetables would be
young carrots, cucumbers and radishes; for summer, yellow
and green courgettes (zucchini); for autumn (fall), candied, red
or golden beetroots (beets); and for winter, fennel, celeriac
and turnips. The permanent fixture should be mooli (daikon),
which is commonly eaten by the Japanese raw or poached.
Here is the summer version, but the principle is the same for
every season.
SERVES 4 AS A SIDE DISH
1 young carrot
1 Lebanese cucumber
6 French breakfast radishes
6 standard red radishes (or purple, if available)
10cm (4in.) long piece of mooli (daikon)
1/2 small red onion, finely chopped
1 large clove of garlic, finely chopped
2 tbsp soy sauce
2 tbsp mirin
2 tbsp honey
4 shiso leaves
chives, to garnish
shiso cress, to garnish
Half-fill a large bowl or container with iced water. Peel the carrot, slice
along the length and add to the iced water. Slice the cucumber along the
length, turning it to avoid the seeds in the core; discard the core and add the
cucumber slices to the water. Remove the leaves from the radishes, but keep
a little of the stalk. Slice each radish along the length; it will be difficult to
attach the mandoline guard for the smaller vegetables, so do this slowly.
Add the radishes to the iced water. Finally, peel the mooli (daikon) and cut
into four pieces along the length, then grate each piece into long strips and
add to the iced water. Cover the bowl or container and leave in the fridge
for 30 minutes.
For the dressing, add the red onion and garlic to a mixing bowl. Pour in the
soy sauce, mirin and honey, and mix well.
Drain all the vegetables in a colander and spread out on clean kitchen
(paper) towels. Gently dab the vegetables dry, then add to a mixing bowl
and pour over the dressing. Using your hands, gently turn all the vegetables
in the dressing to ensure all the surfaces get a nice coating. Place in a
serving dish.
Roll up the shiso leaves and cut into long strips. Cut the chives into 5cm
(2in.) lengths. Trim about half a punnet of shiso cress, then liberally scatter
all the fresh herbs over the salad and it is ready to serve.
Japanese Slaw with Yuzu Vinaigrette
An ideal side dish for many of the robata recipes in this book.
SERVES 4 AS A SIDE DISH
10g (1/3oz.) hibiki seaweed
1 small clove of garlic
1/2 portion Japanese Mayonnaise
1/2 medium white cabbage
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Soak the hibiki seaweed in iced water for 30 minutes. Peel the garlic, add to
a pestle and mortar, then add a pinch of salt and mash into a fine paste. Add
to the mayonnaise, season with pepper and set aside.
Cut the cabbage in half and then into quarters. Remove the outer leaves and
hard core and slice on the finest setting on a Japanese mandoline (or into
ultra-thin slices with a very sharp, wide bladed knife). Add the cabbage to a
mixing bowl and pour over the mayonnaise. Drain and add the hibiki
seaweed, mixwell and serve.
◁ Japanese Slaw with Garlic Mayo
and Hibiki
The perfect slaw, with crunch and a variety of colours and
textures.
SERVES 4 AS A SIDE DISH
1/4 medium white cabbage
10 radishes, preferably French
2 medium carrots
1/2 red onion
1/2 bunch of chives
FOR THE VINAIGRETTE
1 tsp sushi vinegar
1 tsp wasabi powder
1 tsp honey
1/2 tsp Sriracha chilli sauce
4 tbsp yuzu juice
41/2 tbsp grapeseed oil
2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
First prepare the vegetables. Peel away the outer layer of the white cabbage
and remove the stalk. Clean the radishes, removing the long string at the tip
and green top, but leave about a centimetre (1/2in.). Peel the carrots, remove
the ends and cut in half. Grate the cabbage and radishes on the finest setting
of a Japanese mandoline. For the carrots, add a medium-sized blade, then
soak the julienned carrot in ice-cold water for 10 minutes to crisp up, then
drain. Chop the chives into fine rings and mix all the vegetables and herbs
together in a serving bowl.
For the yuzu vinaigrette, combine all the ingredients, except the oils, to
form a smooth paste. Then mix the olive and grapeseed oils together and
gradually add to the mixture to form a smooth emulsion. Pour over the
vegetables, mix well and serve (pictured opposite).
Chilled Iceberg with Red Onion Soy
This is a spin on an American barbecue salad that I had in
New York with blue cheese dressing. The whole family was
fighting over the iceberg salad – something normally
considered the devil’s food among us, and in the same
category as baby sweetcorn and Golden Delicious apples. In
its Japanification, this salad is trimmed into rectangular
squares and frozen for up to two hours prior to serving – it’s
not called iceberg salad for nothing!
SERVES 4 AS A SIDE DISH
1/2 large or 1 medium iceberg lettuce
1 small red onion
2 large cloves of garlic
31/2 tbsp soy sauce
31/2 tbsp mirin
small handful of bonito flakes, to serve
micro cress, to serve
First trim the iceberg lettuce: to get maximum yield, cut the iceberg on all
four sides into a square-ish shape, then cut into four rectangular blocks.
Place the lettuce in iced water in the fridge for 30 minutes.
Make the salad dressing. Using the finest blade of a traditional grater, grate
the onion and garlic. Add to a mixing bowl and pour over the soy sauce and
mirin, mix well and set aside to infuse.
When ready to serve, remove the iceberg from the freezer and place it on a
long rectangular plate. Gently pour over the dressing so it penetrates
between the lettuce leaves. Sprinkle with bonito flakes and micro cress and
serve.
Okonomiyaki Masquerading as
Prawn (Shrimp) Toast
This recipe is a great marriage of a Chinese classic with a
Japanese street food favourite. But why fiddle with a classic
and not use toasted bread, you might ask. Put simply, toast is
the devil’s food – its invention and popularity is a total mystery
to me! Prawn (shrimp) toast with this savoury twist – using
okonomiyaki pancakes packed with umami, egg and cabbage
as a substitute base for the prawn (shrimp) mixture – is
fantastic. Most Japanese stores carry okonomiyaki flour, which
mainly contains Japanese dried yam, powdered bonito flakes
and wheat flour, and comes in different flavour variations.
Watch out for MSG in the ingredients list, though. The
traditional okonomiyaki is served with Kewpie mayonnaise,
aonori and bonito flakes, and with a zigzag pattern of a sauce
similar to Worcestershire sauce.
SERVES 4 | MAKES 8
FOR THE PANCAKES
2 eggs
90g (31/4oz./1 cup) okonomiyaki flour
1/4 white cabbage, finely shredded
1 bunch of spring onions (scallions), cut into fine rings
grapeseed oil, for frying
FOR THE TOPPING
1 clove of garlic, finely chopped
1 thumb-size knob of fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
150g (5oz.) raw, de-veined prawns (shrimp)
1 egg
1 tsp soy sauce
1 tsp sesame oil
1 tbsp potato flour
40g (11/2oz./1/3 cup) white sesame seeds
3 tbsp sweet chilli sauce, for dipping
First make the okonomiyaki batter. Whisk the eggs until smooth, then add
125ml (1/2 cup) of cold water and the flour, and carry on whisking to create
a smooth batter. Add the cabbage and spring onions (scallions) and stir until
all ingredients are incorporated.
Heat a little grapeseed oil in a non-stick frying pan (skillet) and ladle in the
pancake batter. Make four pancakes and leave to cool on a wire rack.
Now make the prawn (shrimp) topping. Place the garlic and ginger in a
food processor with the prawns (shrimp), egg, soy sauce, sesame oil and
potato flour. Run the machine until a smooth paste forms, decant the paste
into a bowl and leave to firm up in the fridge for 30 minutes.
Cut each pancake into four and smear each piece on one side with the
prawn (shrimp) mixture. Pour the sesame seeds on to a plate and press the
prawn (shrimp) side of each piece into the seeds, ensuring the seeds stick to
the mixture.
Pour grapeseed oil into a shallow pan to about 2cm (3/4 in.) deep. Fry the
okonomiyaki ‘toast’ pieces in batches of four, prawn (shrimp) side down,
until light golden. Leave to drain on a piece of kitchen (paper) towel for a
few minutes, then serve with the sweet chilli dipping sauce.
Japanese cured mackerel – a Silla
classic
I learned how to cure mackerel on my first ‘cheffing’ trip to
Tokyo back in 1996. As part of sharing and spreading the
gospel of what an amazing fish mackerel is, I often teach
students how to prepare this in my Japanese cooking classes.
Most are bowled over by how smooth and delicate mackerel
is after this light cure. I must emphasize that only market-
fresh mackerel has the provenance that this curing technique
demands.
In the next two recipes (shown here and here) we are using
cured mackerel sashimi-style. It is a common myth that
mackerel is eaten raw by the Japanese. Because this is a wild
and oily fish, the traditional preparation is to first salt and
then cure it to ensure any micro parasites are eliminated.
Make sure the mackerel is super fresh, preferably whole, with
guts removed. A basic rule is that fresh fish should not smell
fishy, a contradiction in terms, but very accurate as a fishy
smell is in fact the early stages of spoilage. The gills should be
red and spongy, and the eyes should be fresh-looking, like
round glass eyes. Ask your fishmonger to fillet the mackerel,
or if you’d like to do this yourself there is a step-by-step
tutorial on my website: sillabjerrum.com/mackereltutorial.
Mackerel is particularly good in the northern hemisphere
during September and October, after fattening up over the
summer ready for the winter, so is buttery and packed with
http://sillabjerrum.com/mackereltutorial
good omega 3 oil. Avoid mackerel in February and March
when it is the spawning season.
2 tbsp Genmai green tea (for the Genmai-Cured Mackerel Sashimi), or 1 x 5cm (2in.)
piece of kombu seaweed (for the Kombu-Cured Mackerel)
200ml (3/4 cup) sushi vinegar
1 tbsp soy sauce
1 large fresh mackerel (or 2 medium), filleted
flaky sea salt
To prepare the mackerel:
For the Genmai-Cured Mackerel Sashimi, add the green tea to a cup and
pour over no more than 100ml (scant 1/2 cup) water at 85°C (185°F), leave
to brew for 4 minutes, then strain. For the Kombu-Cured Mackerel, wipe
the kombu clean with a damp cloth, being careful to not remove too much
of the natural sea salt.
In a jug, combine the sushi vinegar, green tea or kombu, and soy sauce and
set aside. Place the mackerel fillets in a shallow tray, flesh side up. Sprinkle
generously with sea salt, ensuring they are completely covered. Place in the
fridge and leave to cure for 20 minutes; this process will eliminate any
micro nasties and will also draw out water to firm up the flesh.
Remove from the fridge, rinse the fish under a gentle running cold water,
ensuring all the salt is removed. Place skin side up on a piece of kitchen
(paper) towel. Clean out the shallow tray and pour in the vinegar mixture,
place the mackerel in the tray skin side up, and leave to cure for 20 minutes
at room temperatureor in the fridge for 30 minutes.
Remove the mackerel from the curing liquid and pin-bone each fillet; it is
easier to do this at this stage as the salting and curing will have softened the
bones. Place the fillets on a piece of kitchen (paper) towel, skin side up. It
helps to leave the fillets to rest for 3 hours before removing the outer skin;
this is not strictly necessary, but you will retain more of the beautiful silver
pattern if the mackerel has rested.
Place the fillets on a chopping board and, starting from the widest part of
the fillet, gently loosen the skin. When enough skin is loosened across the
fillet, peel it back from the whole fillet in one fast movement (like
removing a plaster from a child’s knee). Cut the mackerel in slices on the
diagonal, about 2cm (3/4 in.) wide.
◁ Genmai-Cured Mackerel Sashimi
Genmai tea is a version of Japanese green tea, containing
popped brown rice giving it a rich and roasted flavour, which
goes well with mackerel.
SERVES 4 AS A SIDE DISH
2 cured mackerel fillets (shown here)
5g (1/6oz.) dried wakame seaweed
1 bulb of fennel
1 tbsp lemon juice
300g (101/2oz.) rocket (arugula) leaves
1/2 cucumber, halved lengthways, then sliced thinly on the diagonal
4 spring onions (scallions), chopped into fine rings
100g (31/2oz./2 cups) sprouts, such as alfalfa or sprouting chickpea
FOR THE DASHI DRESSING
100ml (scant 1/2 cup) liquid kombu dashi
80g (3oz.) ready mixed wasabi paste (or substitute some with a little freshly grated
wasabi)
80ml (1/3 cup) honey, preferably local
41/2 tbsp sesame oil
Prepare the mackerel fillets as described shown here; use any resting times
to prepare the other parts of the salad.
For the dressing, place all the ingredients in a food processor, whizz to an
even, smooth paste, and decant into a suitable bottle.
Place the wakame seaweed in 500ml (2 cups) ice-cold water. Cut the fennel
bulb in half and remove any bruised leaves, then use a Japanese mandoline
to carefully create ultra-thin slices. Place the slices in ice-cold water with
the lemon juice so as not to discolour.
Drain the wakame and fennel and add to a salad bowl with the rocket
(arugula), cucumber and spring onions (scallions). Dress well with a couple
of tablespoons of the dressing, then flake the mackerel on top. Drizzle over
another couple of tablespoons of dressing, scatter with the sprouts and the
salad is ready to eat. The remaining dressing will keep for up to 2 weeks in
the fridge; shake well before use.
◁ Kombu-Cured Mackerel with Mooli
(Daikon) and Courgette (Zucchini)
Mooli (daikon) is by far the most popular vegetable in
Japanese cuisine; it is a giant white radish and is eaten raw,
poached or as a pickle.
SERVES 4 AS A SIDE DISH
2 cured mackerel fillets (shown here)
10cm (4in.) piece of mooli (daikon)
1 yellow courgette (zucchini)
1 green courgette (zucchini)
pea shoots
shiso cress
FOR THE DRESSING
2 tbsp honey
1 tsp wasabi
1 tsp sushi vinegar
31/2 tbsp yuzu juice
100ml (scant 1/2 cup) extra-virgin olive oil
Prepare the mackerel fillets as described shown here.
Peel the mooli (daikon) and grate into discs on the finest setting of a
Japanese mandoline. Rinse the green and yellow courgettes (zucchini), then
grate in the same manner as the mooli (daikon). Take a large mixing bowl,
add ice and cold water and leave the mooli (daikon) and courgette
(zucchini) to crisp up in the fridge for 20 minutes.
Prepare the dressing. Mix the honey, wasabi and sushi vinegar in a jug until
incorporated, then add the yuzu and whisk well. Gradually add the olive oil,
whisking into a smooth dressing.
Drain the courgette (zucchini) and mooli (daikon), then transfer to a kitchen
(paper) towel and dab dry. Return to the mixing bowl and pour in half the
dressing, mixing well until all the vegetables are covered.
Cut the mackerel fillets into diamond-shaped pieces. Arrange the vegetable
discs on a round serving dish. Place the mackerel on top, drizzle the
remainder of the dressing on the mackerel and garnish with pea shoots and
shiso cress.
◁ Rice Wrapped in Banana Leaves
These wrapped rice parcels are made with banana leaves,
which are available from Chinese wholesalers. This recipe uses
chilli jam, but it could also be made with a teriyaki or tare
sauce.
SERVES 4 | MAKES 8
80ml (1/3 cup) Chilli Jam
1 portion Japanese Mountain Rice
1 pack fresh banana leaves
You will need: 8 small wooden skewers, soaked for 30 minutes in cold water
Make the chilli jam at least a day in advance, following the recipe shown
here.
Make a portion of Japanese mountain rice, following the recipe shown here.
1 Cut the banana leaves into large 30 x 30cm (12 x 12in.) squares. If the
robata grill is already on, grill the banana leaves for 20 seconds on each
side. Or do this in a large non-stick frying pan (skillet) on the hob (stove
top) for about 1 minute on each side, until softened and shiny.
2 Place the banana leaves shiny side down. Spread a teaspoon of chilli jam
in the middle of each leaf, in a 10 x 10cm (4 x 4in.) square.
3 Then add 100g (31/2oz.) of Japanese mountain rice to each one, moulded
into the same square shape.
4 Wrap each parcel, folding over the top and bottom, then fold in each side
and secure with a small skewer.
Place in a steamer for 10 minutes, until piping hot, and serve immediately.
Japanese Mountain Rice
I first tried this rice in a Japanese restaurant in Tokyo, with
smoked salmon belly on top. We asked the lovely waiter what
it was called and the answer was ‘Mountain Rice’ – this name
has stuck ever since, but it is basically a flavoured Japanese
rice.
SERVES 4 AS A SIDE DISH
250g (9oz./11/4 cups) uncooked Japanese round grain rice
100g (31/2oz.) shimeji mushrooms
100g (31/2oz.) enoki mushrooms
4 small spring onions (scallions)
11/2 tbsp good-quality olive oil
1 clove of garlic, peeled and finely chopped
10g (1/3oz.) mixed sesame seeds
2 shiso leaves or a handful of fresh mint leaves
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Wash the rice 4–5 times under cold running water, drain in a colander and
leave to rest for 30 minutes. Place the rice in a saucepan and add water –
about 15 per cent more water than the volume of rice. Bring to the boil and
leave to simmer for 17 minutes, then remove from the heat and leave to rest
for 17 minutes. Alternatively, use a rice cooker.
Trim the ends of the shimeji and enoki mushrooms and cut the buds and
stems into 5mm (1/5in.) lengths. Keep the heads of the mushrooms intact.
Trim and peel the first layer of the spring onions (scallions), then chop into
fine rings.
Heat the olive oil in a frying pan (skillet) and gently fry the mushrooms
until soft. Add the garlic and spring onions (scallions) and fry for a further 2
minutes. Add the sesame seeds, and season to taste.
Mix the mushroom mixture into the rice, then roll up the shiso or mint
leaves into a cylinder and cut finely. Decant the rice into a large serving
bowl and serve with a selection of robata dishes.
New Potatoes with Uni Butter
Potatoes are not uncommon in Japan, but are mostly
included in dishes like katsu curry. As potatoes are such an
essential part of most variations of Western cuisine, I am
including one of my favourite umami-packed spuds. This
recipe works well with small earthy potatoes like Charlotte or
Anya, freshly dug, scraped clean with a small herb knife and
served with the skin on. Sea urchin, also called uni, is a spiky
shellfish typically fished from Japanese or Canadian waters.
The shell is carefully cut open with a pair of pointed scissors
and the little tongue-sized fillets are removed from the inside.
These can be purchased frozen as uni is not widely available,
but you should find it in Japanese specialist stores or online.
The butter recipe here makes a double portion, so freeze half
to use on barbecued meat or pasta. For an alternative to sea
urchin, try 50g (2oz.) of red miso paste.
SERVES 4–6 AS A SIDE DISH
500g (1lb. 11/2oz.) small new potatoes of your choice
100g (31/2oz./1/2 cup) unsaltedbutter
2 tbsp wasabi powder
30g (1oz.) sea urchin (uni)
1 tbsp finely chopped chives
1 tbsp light soy sauce
1 tsp yuzu juice (or lemon juice)
freshly ground white pepper
shiso leaves or mint, to garnish
Soak the potatoes in water for 5 minutes, then refresh the water and, using a
small herb knife, scrape away any dirt and loose skin, leaving a fine layer of
skin remaining on the potato. Rinse the potatoes a couple of times under
cold running water, then bring to the boil in a large pan of salty water and
leave to simmer until al dente.
While the potatoes are cooking, prepare the sea urchin butter. Place the
butter, wasabi, sea urchin, chives, soy sauce and yuzu juice in a food
processor and blend until incorporated. Season to taste with white pepper.
Divide into two portions, freeze one, and place the other in the fridge until
the potatoes are ready.
Drain the potatoes and give them a gentle shake in a colander to get rid of
any excess water, then place in a mixing bowl. Add the sea urchin butter,
mix well and pour into a serving bowl. Roll up the shiso leaves or mint,
slice into thin strips and scatter over the potatoes, then serve.
◁ Grilled Onigiri with Furikake
This is a great way to use up leftover rice. To work best, it has
to be white round grain rice, as used in Japanese cooking, so
that it sticks together. In this recipe, the onigiri is moulded
like lollipops and stuck on to the skewers.
SERVES 4 | MAKES 8
200g (7oz.) uncooked or 350g (121/2oz.) cooked rice
1 tbsp yuzu juice
1 tbsp mirin
pinch of salt
pinch of white pepper
dash of rice vinegar
31/2 tbsp groundnut (peanut) oil
furikake, to garnish
You will need: 8 wooden skewers, soaked for 30 minutes in cold water
Wash the rice four times, drain and leave to rest for 20 minutes. Place the
rice in a saucepan or rice cooker and add water – about 15 per cent more
water than the volume of rice. If cooking rice on the hob (stove top), bring
the water to the boil and let the rice simmer for 17 minutes, then leave to
rest for 12 minutes.
Divide the rice into two equal-sized batches. Take one batch and divide into
a further four portions. In a pestle and mortar, mash the rice one portion at a
time, then transfer all the rice to a mixing bowl, add the yuzu and mirin and
season with the salt and pepper.
Have ready a bowl of cold water with the rice vinegar. Wet your hands and
dive in to the mix, incorporating the ingredients evenly with your fingers.
Mould the rice into eight equal-sized rectangular squares, ensuring it is
packed tight; keep your hands damp by occasionally dipping in the vinegar
water. Skewer each onigiri and leave to dry out a little on a chopping board.
Start the robata grill. When ready, brush the onigiri with oil, grill for a few
minutes on each side, rotate, and add more oil until the surface is nice and
crisp. Place the onigiri on a serving plate and sprinkle with furikake.
VARIATION:
For Crispy Onigiri with Balsamic, brush the onigiri with
balsamic vinegar in place of the groundnut (peanut) oil.
Portobello Mushrooms Stuffed with
Shimeji and Shiitake
Shiitake and Parmesan cheese both have a very high content
of natural umami. These savoury mushrooms are almost
‘meaty’ in their flavour, and are great as either a side dish or a
vegetarian option.
SERVES 4 AS ONE OF 4–5 ROBATA DISHES
4 large, very fresh Portobello mushrooms
2 fresh shiitake mushrooms
1/2 punnet shimeji mushrooms
1 tbsp yuzu juice
1 tbsp mirin
1 small clove of garlic, finely chopped
1 ball of mozzarella cheese, torn into small pieces
3 tbsp freshly grated Parmesan cheese
Sake-Mirin Spray
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Brush the Portobello and shiitake mushrooms clean with a brush and
remove and discard the stalks. Cut the shimeji mushroom buds, discarding
the stalks and base. Chop the shiitake mushrooms.
Place all the ingredients, except the Portobello mushrooms and sake-mirin
spray, in a mixing bowl, season with a little salt and pepper and stir to
combine.
Place the Portobello mushrooms on a plate with the top facing down.
Divide the stuffing mixture into four portions and stuff the mushrooms
firmly. Set aside.
Start the robata grill. When the coals are ready, cover them with a wire rack
and place the mushrooms over a less hot area of the grill, to allow the
mushrooms to cook slowly. Control the flames and keep the mushrooms
moist with the sake-mirin spray. Cook for 15–20 minutes, until the
mushrooms are cooked through and the filling is runny, then transfer to a
serving dish.
Nasu Deganku
This is a classic Japanese dish of miso-glazed aubergine
(eggplant). It is usually made using half an aubergine
(eggplant) as the serving vessel and cooked in the oven, but
here it has been deconstructed to create a robata version. It is
an utterly addictive dish and served in many Japanese
eateries across the globe. Newer versions of this dish cut the
aubergine (eggplant) into strips or chunks, some serve it with
skin and some without. The skin can be bitter, so in this recipe
I have done half and half, as the skin does help keep the
shape of the pieces but should not overpower the dish.
SERVES 4 AS ONE OF 4–5 ROBATA DISHES
2 large aubergines (eggplants)
1/2 tbsp sea salt
100g (31/2oz.) miso paste
11/2 tbsp mirin
4 tbsp caster (superfine) sugar
3 spring onions (scallions), cut into fine rings
2 tbsp sesame oil
1 tbsp mixed sesame seeds
Trim the top of the aubergines (eggplants), then peel them vertically to
create a stripy pattern. Cut them into eight equal-sized pieces along the
length and season with sea salt. Set aside for 20 minutes.
Place the miso, mirin and sugar in a small saucepan, heat over a medium
heat and whisk to create a smooth glaze. Set aside. Soak the spring onion
(scallion) rings in cold water for 5 minutes, then drain and set aside.
Start the robata grill. When the aubergine (eggplant) slices have finished
salting, rinse in cold running water and leave to dry for 5 minutes in a
colander. Then dress the slices in the sesame oil. Place a wire rack over the
robata grill and start grilling the slices. They will take up to 10 minutes to
soften, but will need constant turning. When the aubergine (eggplant) is
grilled and soft, place on a rectangular serving plate and dress with the miso
glaze, sprinkle with sesame seeds and spring onions (scallions), and serve.
Goma Spinach
Eat your greens! Steamed spinach sprinkled with sesame
seeds and served with a smooth sesame dressing is a classic
appetizer or small side dish in Japanese cuisine. It is also one
of my favourites: it’s tasty and a good source of fibre and iron,
extremely high in vitamins K and A, and full of antioxidants.
The soy sauce can be replaced with tamari for a gluten-free
version.
SERVES 4
2 tbsp liquid kombu dashi
2kg (4lb. 8oz.) baby leaf spinach
100g (31/2oz.) sesame paste or tahini
4 tbsp soy sauce
2 tbsp honey
1 tbsp mixed sesame seeds
Bring approximately 3 litres (12 cups) of water to the boil in a large
saucepan, adding the liquid kombu dashi. Meanwhile, wash the baby
spinach leaves twice and give them a good spin in a salad spinner.
Add the baby spinach to the pan, ensuring it is fully submerged, and cook
for 2 minutes, until just blanched. Drain in a colander and plunge into a
bowl of iced water, then leave to rest for 10 minutes, until cooled fully,
giving the spinach an occasional stir.
Drain the spinach in a colander and press against the sides to remove as
much water as possible. Divide into four portions, give a final squeeze to
remove any excess water, and mould into a ball shape. Place in the middle
of a large sheet of cling film (plastic wrap), lift all four corners of the cling
film (plastic wrap) and twist to make a tight ball. Leave to rest in the fridge
for 30 minutes (this can be done a day in advance).
For the dressing, add the sesame paste, soy sauce, honey and 2 tablespoons
of water to a food processor and blend for a few minutes until smooth. Pour
into the base of four serving bowls.
To serve, steam the spinachin a steamer for 3–4 minutes, until heated
through, then place one ball of spinach in each bowl and sprinkle with the
sesame seeds.
Okra Robata
Okra fares very well on the robata grill; pierce it a few times
and marinate for a short time to add a wonderful flavour.
SERVES 4 | MAKES 8
500g (1lb. 11/2oz.) medium to large okra
3 tbsp soy sauce
3 tbsp mirin
3 tbsp sake
1 tbsp potato flour
1 tbsp black sesame seeds
vegetable oil
Sake-Mirin Spray
You will need: 16 wooden skewers, soaked for 30 minutes in cold water
Wash the okra in cold water and leave to drain in a colander. Combine the
soy sauce, mirin and sake together in a bowl. Pierce each okra with a pointy
knife; it just needs to be a small straight cut along the okra, no more than
5mm ( 1/5in.), to let out steam. Add to the bowl and leave the okra to
marinate for 20 minutes.
Start the robata grill. Place a colander over a saucepan and drain the okra,
reserving the marinade. Heat the leftover marinade to just below boiling
point. Dilute the potato flour with a little cold water, adding a little at a time
to the marinade, mixing to incorporate. You may not need it all; you want a
silky-smooth consistency no thicker than the texture of double (heavy)
cream. Set aside.
Thread the okra on to the skewers, around five per portion held on two
skewers.
When the robata grill is ready, place a wire rack over the coals. Brush the
rack with a little vegetable oil and grill the okra skewers until slightly
charred, rotating a few times and spraying intermittently with the sake-
mirin spray. These grill very fast, so cook them just before serving, while
the other dishes are resting.
Stack on a serving platter, drizzle over the sauce and sprinkle with the
seeds.
◁ Aonori Flatbread
Originally inspired by the Indian flatbread paratha, I have
added a twist to these using buckwheat flour and aonori.
Aonori is a green powdered seaweed typically used in
okonomiyaki, tempura batter or on sumo fries. It adds a
certain umami and crispiness when incorporated into a dish.
MAKES 16
150g (5oz.) buckwheat flour
150g (5oz.) 00 flour, plus extra for dusting
75g (21/2oz./2/3cup) cornmeal
75ml (5 tbsp) soured cream
75ml (5 tbsp) boiling water
80g (3oz./1/3 cup) unsalted butter, melted
20g (3/4oz.) aonori seaweed in a shaker
sunflower oil, for frying
To make the dough, combine all three flours in a mixing bowl, create a well
in the middle and add the soured cream and boiling water. Mix in the
liquids with a fork until all are incorporated, then knead for about 10
minutes, until the dough is smooth. Let the dough rest, covered with cling
(plastic wrap), for at least 1 hour.
Divide the dough into 16 equal-sized portions and shape into round balls.
Dust a work surface with flour and roll one ball at a time into a disc shape
(slightly larger than a CD). Brush with melted butter and sprinkle with
aonori, roll into a tight cylinder, then coil into a snail shape. Dust the work
surface again and roll out again to a disc shape, about 5mm ( 1/5in.) thick,
then stack in a pile with baking parchment in between the layers. Repeat the
process until all 16 are done.
Heat a little sunflower oil in a small frying pan (skillet) and fry the
flatbreads until golden on each side. Place on baking parchment and repeat
the process until all breads are cooked. These can be done in a frying pan
(skillet) over coals if you are using bincho, as these stay hot for so long that
it’s worth getting maximum usage.
Keep warm in the oven at 120°C (250°F/Gas mark 1/2) until just before
serving. These breads freeze well before frying, so if 16 seems too many for
your party, hold some back for future barbecues.
Chilli Jam
This chilli jam has been in my repertoire for decades. It is slow
cooked in the oven instead of on the hob (stove top), as I find
it easier to control and less likely to burn. This recipe makes
plenty, so you can give some to your nearest and dearest as
the perfect little gift. This chilli jam has many uses beyond this
book, and is a proper store cupboard gem, free of
preservatives and MSG, unlike most shop-bought brands.
400g (14oz.) red chillies
100g (31/2oz.) bird’s eye (Thai) chillies
2 large white Spanish onions, peeled and chopped into rough chunks
20 cloves of garlic
300ml (11/4 cups) sunflower oil
30g (1oz./1/4 cup) flaky sea salt
1/2 pack tamarind pulp (about 150g/5oz.)
500g (1lb. 11/2oz./21/2 cups) light demerara (raw brown) sugar
31/2 tbsp Kikkoman soy sauce
You will need: several preserving jars. To sterilize, wash in soapy water, rinse with boiling
water and leave to dry upside down on a clean tea (dish) towel. Then place the cleaned
and rinsed jars in the oven at 120°C (250°F/Gas mark 1/2) for 30 minutes. If not sterilizing
in the oven, add a shot of white alcohol (vodka, gin or rum) to the cleaned jar, close and
give the jar a good swirl.
Preheat the oven to 170°C (325°F/Gas mark 3).
Remove and discard the stalks from the red chillies and cut in half. Nip the
tops off the bird’s eye (Thai) chillies. Working in batches, place a mixture
of the two chillies, the onion and garlic in a food processer, add a generous
helping of the sunflower oil, and run the machine until you have a chunky
paste. Pour into an ovenproof metal tray and repeat until all the ingredients
have been used. Top up the tray with the remainder of the oil and sprinkle
over the sea salt, then stir the mixture and cover tightly with a sheet of foil.
Place in the oven and cook for 1 hour, returning after 30 minutes to give the
mixture a good stir, ensuring it does not stick to the sides.
Reduce the oven temperature to 120°C (250°F/Gas mark 1/2) and cook for a
further 5 hours, until dark red and soft. Just before the 5 hours are up, place
the tamarind pulp in a bowl, pour over boiling water and leave to soften for
about 20 minutes.
Remove the chilli mixture from the oven and pour into a heavy-based
saucepan. Place the pan over a low heat and stir in the sugar and soy sauce.
Strain the tamarind through a sieve, pressing the pulp against the sides of
the metal mesh, then add the liquid to the chilli mixture and stir well. Cook
the jam for 30–40 minutes, stirring every 5 minutes to ensure the mixture
does not burn, then leave to cool, covered, on the hob (stove top). Once
cool, decant the jam into the sterilized jars, then store in a cold place for up
to 6 months.
Kappa Pickles
One of the most widely used pickles in Japan, these are often
served as a small appetizer. In Japan, small cucumbers are
used for this dish; the best option in the UK is to use Lebanese
cucumbers. I use sushi vinegar for the pickles as this is sweet
already and gives a smoother result than adding sugar to rice
vinegar. These keep well in the fridge in a sterilized jar for up
to two weeks.
6 small cucumbers
2 tbsp sea salt
small piece of fresh horseradish
2 dried chillies
5 Sichuan peppercorns
2 tbsp white sesame seeds
400–450ml (13/4–scant 2 cups) sushi vinegar
You will need: a clean, dry, sterilized jar (see opposite)
Cut the cucumbers into 2cm (3/4 in.) thick discs, place in a mixing bowl and
dress in salt. Leave to cure for 15 minutes, then rinse well in cold water and
leave to dry in a colander.
Place the cucumber in the pickling jar. Prepare two pieces of horseradish,
preferably the length of the jar, cut into 5 x 5mm (1/5 x 1/5in.) batons and
place inside the jar. Add the chillies, peppercorns and sesame seeds. Close
the jar and shake well to ensure the flavourings are distributed through the
jar.
Open the jar and pour over the vinegar. Place the jar upside down for 10
minutes, then top up further with vinegar to ensure the cucumbers are fully
submerged.
Remove a small portion of pickles from the jar at a time and serve as an
appetizer or to complement robata dishes.
Red Onion Pickles
These turn fluorescent red in their vinegar and are a great
accompaniment to fatty meats, providing a tart counter-
balance. I use sushi vinegar, as the sweet and sourness is pre-
blended for best results.2 medium red onions
200–300ml (3/4–11/4 cups) sushi vinegar
small 2 x 2cm (3/4 x 3/4in.) piece of kombu
Cut the red onions in half, then slice finely along the grain. Place in a
mixing bowl and pour over the sushi vinegar so the onion is just covered.
Wipe clean the kombu with a damp cloth and add to the liquid. Leave to
pickle for 1 hour, and serve with robata or in salads.
Japanese Mayonnaise
This is a yuzu mayonnaise and has been with me for twenty
years. Make sure the eggs are fresh and free-range accredited
eggs.
100ml (scant 1/2 cup) olive oil
200ml (3/4 cup) grapeseed oil
1 whole egg, plus 2 free-range egg yolks
1 tbsp caster (superfine) sugar
1 tbsp sushi vinegar
1 tbsp yuzu juice
Combine the two oils in a jug. Place the egg, egg yolks, sugar, sushi vinegar
and yuzu in the bowl of a stand mixer and run until light and airy. Gradually
pour the oils into the machine until you have a light yellow, shiny, smooth
mayonnaise. Decant into a squeezy bottle or small container and keep for
up to 7 days in the fridge.
desserts+drinks
Traditionally, desserts are not really eaten in Japan, with the
exception of mochi, a pounded rice dough with a delicious
red bean or matcha filling. Matcha, the concentrated green
tea powder used in the traditional Japanese tea ceremony, is
an antioxidant super-charger, great in desserts, drinks,
cocktails and juices. Matcha works particularly well with dark
chocolate for a slightly bitter and impactful flavour profile.
Sencha green tea accompanies most meals in Japan, jam-
packed with antioxidants and good caffeine. Green tea is best
brewed at 85°C (185°F) from good-quality leaves. Make sure
you choose a brand with a good fresh flavour, high
antioxidant content and no added sugars.
Sake is a wonderful drink and finally gaining real
momentum outside of Japan. I am particularly fond of
Junmai Daiginjo-shu, the queen of sake, made with at least
50 per cent polished rice, water and koji, producing a purer,
smoother taste.
The cocktails in this book all have a grown-up feel and use
key Japanese ingredients, combining sake with quality spirits.
I prefer to use agave syrup, as it is gentler on the alcohol and
not overly sweet.
◁ Drunken Pineapple
This is an old-school classic, served to the Courts across
Europe through the centuries. In this recipe it is given an
Asian twist. Here served by itself, for a more substantial
dessert, serve with the Miso Ice Cream.
SERVES 4
1 ripe pineapple
125ml (1/2 cup) Sochu plum wine
250ml (1 cup) Caribbean rum
4 tbsp honey
2 tbsp mirin
2 star anise
4 shiso leaves
Sake-Mirin Spray
Trim the pineapple, removing all outer skin, then cut into quarters, remove
the core and place in a shallow container. Mix all the other ingredients in a
bowl, ensuring the honey is dissolved in the liquid. Pour over the pineapple
and leave to marinate in a cool place for up to 2 hours; if the pineapple is
not fully submerged in liquid, make sure you rotate it a few times during the
marinating.
About 20 minutes before the pineapple is ready, start the robata grill. If
using the robata for other dishes beforehand, make sure you scrub the wire
rack with a wire brush so as not to get any meat or fish flavours on to the
pineapple.
Remove the pineapple from its marinade and place it on the wire rack. Grill
for a few minutes on each of the three sides, then rotate. When all pieces are
sealed, start basting the pineapple in the leftover marinade. This dish will
take up to 20 minutes to cook to soft, repeatedly re-basting with the
marinade to build up a golden caramelization. You will need to work fast to
ensure the fruit does not burn – use sake-mirin spray to control any flare
ups. Serve immediately on a shiso leaf with a little of the leftover marinade.
◁ Grilled Stone Fruit with Miso Ice
Cream
The miso ice cream in this dish is sweet and savoury. The
recipe makes a little over 1 litre (4 cups), so either halve the
quantities for this dessert, or keep the ice cream for future
dinners, but eat within a month of freezing.
SERVES 4
6 large free-range egg yolks
150g (5oz./3/4 cup) caster (superfine) sugar
300ml (11/4 cups) single (light) cream
600ml (21/2 cups) double (heavy) cream
300g (101/2oz.) sweet miso
4 medium ripe peaches or 6 medium ripe plums
100ml (scant 1/2 cup) Japanese plum wine
olive oil
Sake-Mirin Spray
First make the custard for the ice cream. Place the egg yolks in a stand
mixer with the sugar, and whisk until light and fluffy. Meanwhile, place the
two creams in a heavy-based saucepan and heat to just before boiling point,
then remove from the heat to cool for a few minutes.
Pour a little of the cream into the egg yolk mixture and mix until
incorporated. Now pour all of the egg mixture into the remaining cream in
the pan, place over a medium heat and whisk well. Heat through until it
reaches 74°C (165°F). I prefer the reassurance of a thermometer to ensure
the custard does not curdle, but if you do not have one you can also use a
wooden spoon: dip the spoon into the custard, and draw a line through the
custard with the spoon; when the line remains in place, the custard has
reached the correct temperature. Remove from the heat and pour into a
mixing bowl to stop the cooking.
In another bowl, place the sweet miso and add about 200ml (3/4 cup) of the
custard, whisk until smooth, then return to the bowl with the remaining
custard.
If using an ice cream maker, cool the mixture in the fridge for 1 hour. Then
place in the ice cream maker in two batches, decanting them into a freezer-
proof container when they are the consistency of soft ice. If freezing
straight away, place in a suitable container and return every 20 minutes, 4–5
times, to whisk the mixture. Leave in the freezer for 2–3 hours before
serving.
Cut the fruit in half and remove the stones. With the tip of a knife, score the
fruit so the plum wine can penetrate. Pour the plum wine into a dish, place
the fruit flesh side down in the dish and leave to soak up the alcohol for
about 30 minutes.
Start the robata grill. Place a wire rack over the coals and brush with oil.
Place the fruit on the grill, flesh side down, and grill until the fruit is soft
and the flesh slightly charred. Use the sake-mirin spray to aid grilling. Place
the fruit in small serving bowls with a scoop of the miso ice cream
alongside.
◁ Toasted Bincho Dust Marshmallows
I have never really understood shop-bought marshmallows; I
find them stale and boring. But I have had a lot of fun playing
around with homemade versions, and with my children I have
been through a full repertoire of recipes and flavours. For the
binchotan theme I am adding the contents of activated
charcoal capsules, available from healthfood stores. Other
great Japanese-inspired flavours include candied yuzu and
matcha with vanilla.
MAKES 18 | PLENTY FOR 10 PEOPLE
7 sheets of gelatine
275g (93/4oz/11/3 cups) caster (superfine) sugar
140g (14oz.) golden (light corn) syrup
10 activated charcoal capsules
50g (13/4oz) icing (powdered) sugar
50g (13/4oz) cornflour (cornstarch)
vegetable oil spray
You will need: 20 x 30cm (8 x 12in.) baking tray and 21 long, round wooden skewers
soaked in water for 30 minutes
Start this recipe a day in advance. Soak the gelatine in plenty of water and
oil the baking tray with the vegetable oil spray.
Melt the sugar and golden (light corn) syrup in a heavy-based saucepan
with 80ml (1/3 cup) water; place a jam thermometer inside the pan and keep
a watchful eye on it until the sugar mixture reaches 122°C (250°F).
Meanwhile, squeeze out the soaked gelatine sheets and place them in a
bowl set over a pan of simmering water, stirring gently until melted.
Place the melted gelatine into the bowl of a stand mixer and start whisking
while waiting for the sugar to reach the stipulated temperature. When the
sugar is ready, decant it into a metal jug and gently add to the bowl of the
stand mixer in a thin drizzle down the side. Ensure the mixer is on full
speed and leave to churn until themixture thickens into a sticky, smooth
mass. While the machine is running, cut open the charcoal capsules and
carefully pour the contents into a small bowl. Add the charcoal dust to the
sugar mixture and keep the machine running until everything is
incorporated. Pour into the baking tray, smooth over with a warm palette
knife and leave to stand for 24 hours.
On the day of cooking, combine the icing (powdered) sugar with the
cornflour (cornstarch) in a bowl. Place a piece of baking parchment on a
large chopping board, then turn out the marshmallow. Cut it twice
horizontally to create three equal blocks, then cut six times vertically to
create 18 pieces in total. Clean and dry the baking tray, then add the icing
(powdered) sugar mixture. Roll 4–5 pieces of marshmallows in the mixture
at a time until fully coated, then thread on to the wooden skewers and place
on a tray. Repeat until all the marshmallows are done. Cover with a clean
tea (dish) towel and set aside.
When ready for dessert, invite your guests to toast their own marshmallows
over the bincho coals until soft and warm. Eat immediately.
VARIATION:
For a yuzu version, add 11/2 tbsp yuzu juice to the sugar
mixture in place of the charcoal capsules. Before pouring the
mixture into the tray to set, chop 50g (2oz.) candied yuzu
(available online or in specialist stores) and spread in the base
of the tray. For a matcha version, sift 1 tbsp matcha powder
into the sugar mixture in place of the charcoal capsules.
◁ Yuzu Almond Cake with Sesame
Brittle
I have a total obsession with yuzu. My good friend Vicente
Todolí grows these on his citrus farm in Valencia (shown here).
Vicente also has the most stunning kaki tree, the Japanese
version of persimmon fruit, so here it is perfectly matched
with yuzu as a tribute to a truly foodie friend.
SERVES 8
FOR THE CAKE
300g (101/2oz./11/2 cups) caster (superfine) sugar
300g (101/2oz./11/3 cups) unsalted softened butter, plus extra for greasing
300g (101/2oz./21/2 cups) ground almonds
4 large free-range eggs
110g (4oz./1 cup) polenta (cornmeal)
grated zest of 2 yuzu or Sicilian lemons
1 tsp baking powder
pinch of sea salt
80ml (1/3 cup) unsalted yuzu juice
FOR THE SESAME BRITTLE
100g (31/2oz./1/2 cup) caster (superfine) sugar
20g (3/4oz.) toasted white sesame seeds
FOR THE PLUM WINE SABAYON
4 large egg yolks
50g (13/4oz./1/4 cup) caster sugar
80ml (1/3 cup) Japanese plum wine
pinch of salt
120ml (1/2 cup) double (heavy) cream
2 kaki fruit
Preheat the oven to 190°C (375°F/Gas mark 5), and line and grease a 30cm
(12in.) round cake tin (pan). In a stand mixer, beat the sugar and butter until
light and fluffy. Stir in the ground almonds, followed by one egg at a time.
Combine the polenta (cornmeal) with the yuzu or lemon zest, baking
powder and sea salt in a bowl. Fold into the butter mixture, pour in the yuzu
juice and fold again until everything is evenly incorporated. Transfer to the
cake tin (pan) and bake for 35 minutes. Then cover the cake with a piece of
tin foil and cook for a further 10–15 minutes, until baked through. Use a
skewer to check the centre of the cake; the cake is ready when there is no
mixture sticking to the skewer.
For the sesame brittle, melt the sugar in a small saucepan to create a
caramel. As the sugar melts, tip the saucepan from side to side, avoiding
using a spoon. When all the sugar has turned to a caramel, pour onto a
silicone sheet and leave to set.
To make the plum sabayon, place the egg yolks, sugar, plum wine and salt
into a bowl set over a pan of simmering water, whisking until thickened,
about 8–10 minutes. Take off the heat and stir occasionally to cool. In a
separate bowl, whip the cream into thick peaks. When the egg mixture is
lukewarm, mix in the cream and leave in the fridge to chill for at least 45
minutes, or up to 2 hours.
Take the cake out of the oven to cool in the tin (pan) for 10 minutes before
transferring from the tin (pan) to a wire rack to cool for 20 minutes before
removing the baking parchment. Leave the oven on for the sesame brittle.
Place the caramel in a food processer and process until it is the consistency
of sand granules. Place the silicone sheet on a baking sheet, then spread the
caramel dust evenly on it and place the baking sheet in the oven for about
20 minutes, until the caramel dust has melted again. Remove from the oven
and carefully lift the silicone sheet, holding it so that the mixture runs to the
edges of the sheet and is spread as thinly as possible. Then place flat on a
work surface and sprinkle with the sesame seeds and leave to set. When
cool, shatter into large shards.
Place two ultra-thin slices of kaki fruit on each plate, then add a spoonful of
plum wine sabayon. Add a slice of yuzu cake and decorate with shards of
sesame brittle.
◁ Matcha Chocolate Truffles
As mentioned in the introduction to this chapter, traditional
Japanese desserts are non-existent, with the exception of
mochi, which to many is an acquired taste. However, like the
French, I do favour something sweet after a satisfying meal,
and am quite happy with something small and grown-up in
its taste profile, so these matcha truffles fit the bill. Ideally, try
and track down superior-quality, ethically sourced matcha
powder for use in this recipe.
MAKES 20 | PLENTY FOR 10 PEOPLE
120ml (1/2 cup) double (heavy) cream
3 tbsp maple syrup
1 tbsp soft brown sugar
11/2 tbsp matcha powder
170g (6oz.) best-quality 85% dark chocolate, broken into chunks
Line a baking tray with baking parchment. In a small heavy-based
saucepan, heat the double (heavy) cream until simmering, then add the
maple syrup and brown sugar. Add 1 tablespoon of matcha powder, sifting
it straight into the mixture and stirring until fully incorporated, then remove
from the heat.
Place the chocolate in a bowl set over a pan of simmering water and heat
until melted, then gently stir in the cream mixture with a wooden spoon.
Decant into the baking tray and place in the fridge for 45 minutes.
Take the chocolate mixture out of the fridge. Sift the remaining matcha
powder over a large plate. With a teaspoon, scrape across the chocolate,
moulding it into little nuggets – these can be quite rough around the edges –
and roll in the matcha powder. Serve with a cup of freshly brewed sencha
green tea.
Kombu Sour
A Pisco Sour is one of my favourite cocktails of all time: light,
refreshing, and the egg white means I can happily have an
extra one – it is high in protein, is it not?
1 free-range egg white
30ml (2 tbsp) Bols Genever
30ml (2 tbsp) Dassai Junmai Daiginjo Sake
juice of 1/2 lime
11/2 tbsp kombu liquid (see below)
FOR THE KOMBU LIQUID
45g dried kombu/kelp
31/2 tbsp sesame oil
2 tbsp soy sauce
2 tbsp caster (superfine) sugar
To make the kombu liquid, soak the kombu overnight in plenty of water,
then drain and blend with the sesame oil, soy sauce and sugar. Decant into a
sterilized bottle and keep for up to 1 month.
To mix the cocktail, place the egg white in a cocktail shaker, add the Bols
Genever, sake, lime juice and kombu liquid, then shake well until the egg
whites thicken. Add four ice cubes to the mixture, then strain the mixture
into a thick-based rounded glass.
Bincho on the Rocks
This cocktail uses activated charcoal as an ingredient.
Ironically, activated charcoal is prescribed for detoxification
purposes, as a liver cleanse, but please be aware that its
addition to this cocktail does not counteract the impact of
the alcohol! These are delicious and beautiful nonetheless,
and great for a binchotan theme.
6 activated charcoal capsules
20ml (11/2 tbsp) good-quality vodka
30ml (2 tbsp) Dassai Junmai Daiginjo Sake
2 tbsp agave syrup
2 tsp yuzu juice
Cut open the charcoal capsules and place in a cocktail shaker. Place one
large ice cube in a thick-based glass.
Add the remainder of the ingredients to the cocktail shaker, shake, then
strain over the ice and serve.
Canton Hibiscus Tea Royale
To create the sugar syrup for my twist on Kir Royale, I have
useda green tea infused with berry and hibiscus – light and
delicious. The same syrup also works perfectly as a cordial or
as a non-alcoholic choice.
6 berry and hibiscus tea bags
2 green tea bags
100ml (scant 1/2 cup) agave syrup
1 x 75cl bottle chilled prosecco
Make the syrup first. In a saucepan, gently boil the tea bags in 200ml (3/4
cup) of water for 15 minutes, until the liquid is well infused. Discard the tea
bags and add the agave syrup, cook for a few more minutes, then leave to
cool. Decant into a small squeezy bottle.
To serve, squeeze about 1 tablespoon of syrup into the base of a champagne
glass, pour over ice-cold prosecco, then stir and serve immediately.
Lotus Blossom Martini with Lotus
Root Caramel
I love martinis, but often find them overly sweet; here the
sweetness is on the side with a caramel lotus crisp.
1 tsp light demerara (raw brown) sugar
3 lotus nuts (canned)
3 shiso leaves (or small handful of mint leaves if not available)
20ml (11/2 tbsp) good-quality vodka
20ml (11/2 tbsp) Dassai Junmai Daiginjo Sake
FOR THE LOTUS ROOT CARAMEL
1 fresh lotus root, peeled
31/2 tbsp mirin
200g (7oz./1 cup) caster (superfine) sugar
10g (1/3oz.) toasted white sesame seeds
Prepare the lotus root: peel the lotus root and slice on a Japanese mandoline
into 3mm discs. Soak the discs in water for 30 minutes, then discard the
water and place the discs in a saucepan with 150ml (2/3 cup) fresh water.
Add the mirin and simmer for 15 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 120°C (250°F/Gas mark 1/2). Drain the lotus root, place
on a silicone-lined baking sheet, and dry in the oven for 1 hour. Once dry,
melt the sugar in a saucepan to create a caramel, coat the lotus root discs in
the caramel and place on a wire rack to dry. Sprinkle with the sesame seeds
and store in an airtight container for up to 2 weeks.
Muddle the sugar, lotus nuts and shiso together in a bowl to release the
aromas, then pour over the vodka and sake, mix on ice and strain into a
martini or tall glass, garnished with a lotus caramel.
Index
A
agadashi: chilled tofu agadashi 161
robata tofu agadashi 100
almonds: yuzu almond cake 214
asparagus: asparagus pickles 84
asparagus namban 148
asparagus with sea salt 148
asparagus wrapped in beef tskune 125
early summer salad of asparagus, carrot and mangetout (snow peas) 175
aubergines (eggplant): nasu deganku 194
B
bacon-wrapped robata lollies 118
banana leaves, rice wrapped in 188
beef: asparagus wrapped in beef tskune 125
beef tataki 94
cubed sirloin with chilli butter 75
Porterhouse steak with uni butter 96
rib eye with wasabi 126
rump steak with mooli (daikon) and kombu dashi 127
beetroot (beet) pickles, golden 114
bincho on the rocks 220
binchotan 10, 11
brittle, sesame 214
buckwheat, papaya and tofu salad 166
butters: chilli butter 75
miso butter 30
seaweed butter 131
uni butter 96, 191
C
cabbage, ‘addictive’ 109
cake, yuzu almond 214
Canton hibiscus tea royale 221
carrots: early summer salad of asparagus, carrot and mangetout (snow peas)
175
robata baby carrot 83
chicken: chicken drumettes with coriander (cilantro) pesto 78
chicken skin yakitori 110
chicken tskune 108
chicken wings with ‘addictive cabbage’ 109
negima yakitori 108
teriyaki chicken breasts 113
whole miso-marinated baby chicken 76
yuzu chicken 80
chicken hearts 112
Chilean sea bass with choy sum and onion relish 40
chillies: chilli butter 75
chilli jam 202
chocolate truffles, matcha 217
choy sum, Chilean sea bass with 40
cod: miso-cured black cod, Atlantic cod and salmon 44
coffee sauce, duck breasts 144
cooking times 23
coriander (cilantro) pesto dipping sauce 78
courgettes (zucchini), kombu-cured mackerel with mooli (daikon) and 186
crab: fresh crab taramasalata 157
soft-shell crab on Devon crab rice 68
crisps, lotus 157
cuttlefish 143
D
dashi: dashi pickles 142
dashi sweet mash 83
heritage tomato, wakame and dashi salad 174
kombu dashi 127
smooth wasabi dashi dressing 172
drinks 218
drunken pineapple 206
duck: duck breast with dashi sweet mash and robata baby carrot 83
duck breasts with coffee sauce 144
teriyaki duck with asparagus pickles 84
E
edamame with sea salt, steamed/grilled 162
F
faux unagi – herring kabayaki style 134
fish 26
see also cod; salmon, etc
flatbread, aonori 200
fruit: grilled stone fruit with miso ice cream 208
furikake 20
grilled onigiri with furikake 192
G
garlic mayo 178
genmai-cured mackerel sashimi 184
goma spinach 195
green beans: green beans and sugar snap peas in mustard miso 172
Japanese green bean salad 168
H
herb-cured tofu on soba noodles 170
herring kabayaki style 134
hibiki, Japanese slaw with garlic mayo and 178
hibiscus tea: Canton hibiscus tea royale 221
I
ice cream, miso 208
ingredients 16
J
jam, chilli 202
Japanese cured mackerel 182
Japanese green bean salad 168
Japanese mayonnaise 203
Japanese mountain rice 190
Japanese slaws 178
Japanese yam potato 74
K
kappa pickles 203
kimchi 21
squash kimchi 38
kombu 20
kombu-cured mackerel 186
kombu dashi 21, 127
kombu sour 220
L
lamb: butterflied red miso lamb 92
lamb ribs with shiso 90
miso lamb chops 75
leeks: charred leeks with spicy dip 91
lemon sole with Sancho pepper and squash kimchi 38
lettuce: chilled iceberg with red onion soy 180
grilled baby gem with miso and honey 162
lobster with yuzu drizzle 66
lotus root: lotus root caramel 221
lotus crisps 157
M
mackerel: genmai-cured mackerel sashimi 184
Japanese cured mackerel a Silla classic 182
kombu-cured mackerel 186
teriyaki mackerel 31
mangetout (snow peas), early summer salad of asparagus, carrot and 175
marshmallows, toasted bincho dust 212
martini, lotus blossom 221
matcha chocolate truffles 217
mayonnaise: garlic mayo 178
Japanese mayonnaise 203
miso 16, 21
black miso tofu 102
butterflied red miso lamb 92
miso and honey dip 162
miso butter 30
miso-cured black cod, Atlantic cod and salmon 44
miso ice cream 208
miso lamb chops 75
miso salt 124
miso soup 156
mustard miso 172
pork belly yuzu miso 116
whole miso-marinated baby chicken 76
yuzu miso-marinated salmon bites 160
mooli (daikon): kombu-cured mackerel with mooli (daikon) 186
rump steak with mooli (daikon) and kombu dashi 127
mushrooms: Japanese mountain rice 190
Portobello mushrooms stuffed with shimeji and shiitake 193
mussels: large blue rope mussels with miso butter 30
lemongrass-poached mussels 155
N
namban, asparagus 148
nasu deganku 194
negima yakitori 108
negishio, salmon 131
noodles, herb-cured tofu on soba 170
O
octopus and dashi pickles 142
okonomiyaki masquerading as prawn (shrimp) toast 181
okra: okra robata 197
summer salad of okra, tomatoes and toasted quinoa 176
onigiri: grilled onigiri with furikake 192
onions: chilled iceberg with red onion soy 180
onion relish 40
red onion pickles 203
P
papaya: buckwheat, papaya and tofu salad 166
pesto, coriander (cilantro) 78
pickles: asparagus pickles 84
dashi pickles 142
golden beetroot (beet) pickles 114
kappa pickles 203
red onion pickles 203
summer pickles 36
pineapple, drunken 206
pork: baby back pork ribs 86
pork belly yuzu miso 116
pork tskune with golden beetroot (beet) pickles 114
potatoes: new potatoes with uni butter 191
poussin: butterflied poussin with yuzu honey glaze 74
prawns (shrimp): king prawns (shrimp) 130
okonomiyaki masquerading as prawn (shrimp) toast 181
shiso-marinated giant prawns (shrimp) 33
prosecco: Canton hibiscus tea royale 221
Q
quinoa: robata garden in quinoa soil 99
seared scallops on quinoa brown seeded rice 64
summer salad of okra, tomatoes and toasted quinoa 176
R
relish, onion 40
rice: baby squid stuffed with mountain rice 138
grilled onigiri with furikake 192
Japanese mountain rice 190
rice wrapped in banana leaves 188
seared scallops on quinoa brown seeded rice 64
soft-shell crab on Devon crab rice 68
robata: history of 8
how to cook 10
how to enjoy 24
S
sake 21, 23
giant scallop sake poached in shell 62
lotus blossom martini 221
salads: buckwheat, papaya and tofu salad 166
early summer salad 175
heritage tomato, wakame and dashi salad 174
Japanesegreen bean salad 168
Japanese slaws 178
paper-thin seasonal salad 177
seaweed salad 172
summer salad 176
salmon: heavenly salmon 5 ways 56
miso-cured black cod, Atlantic cod and salmon 44
salmon negishio 131
salmon smoked on yuzu leaves 54
salmon tataki in nori crust 32
smoked and robata’ed salmon belly 46
sourcing 22
yuzu miso-marinated salmon bites 160
salsa verde 58
sardines Japanese-style 136
sashimi, genmai-cured mackerel 184
sauces and marinades 23
scallops: giant scallop sake poached in shell 62
scallops with seaweed butter 131
seared scallops on quinoa brown seeded rice 64
sea bass: Chilean sea bass with choy sum and onion relish 40
sea bream fillet with seasonal pickles 36
sea trout, cured and robata’ed 48
seaweed 20
aonori flatbread 200
seaweed butter 131
seaweed salad 172
seeds: seared scallops on quinoa brown seeded rice 64
sesame brittle 214
shishito (padron) peppers 157
shiso: lamb ribs with shiso 90
shiso-marinated giant prawns (shrimp) 33
skewers 104
soup, miso 156
soy sauce 21
red onion soy 180
spinach, goma 195
squash kimchi 38
squid: baby squid stuffed with mountain rice 138
sugar snap peas: green beans and sugar snap peas in mustard miso 172
summer salad of okra, tomatoes and toasted quinoa 176
sweet potatoes: dashi sweet mash 83
T
taramasalata, fresh crab 157
tare sauce 23
tataki: beef tataki 94
salmon tataki 32
tuna tataki 58
teriyaki: teriyaki chicken breasts 113
teriyaki duck with asparagus and pickles 84
teriyaki mackerel 31
tofu: black miso tofu 102
buckwheat, papaya and tofu salad 166
chilled tofu agadashi 161
herb-cured tofu on soba noodles 170
Japanese green bean salad with crispy tofu 168
panko-crusted yuzu tofu 154
robata tofu agadashi 100
tofu lollies with 3 toppings 146
tomatoes: heritage tomato, wakame and dashi salad 174
summer salad of okra, tomatoes and toasted quinoa 176
tools 14
truffles, matcha chocolate 217
tskune: asparagus wrapped in beef tskune 125
chicken tskune 108
pork tskune 114
tuna tataki with salsa verde 58
turnips: baby turnips with miso salt 124
V
vodka: bincho on the rocks 220
lotus blossom martini 221
W
wakame 20
heritage tomato, wakame and dashi salad 174
wasabi 17, 20
rib eye with wasabi 126
smooth wasabi dashi dressing 172
Y
yakitori 104
yam potatoes, Japanese 74
yuzu 16, 21
butterflied poussin with yuzu honey glaze 74
lobster with yuzu drizzle 66
panko-crusted yuzu tofu 154
pork belly yuzu miso 116
salmon smoked on yuzu leaves 54
yuzu almond cake 214
yuzu chicken 80
yuzu miso-marinated salmon bites 160
yuzu vinaigrette 178
Acknowledgements
Firstly, Heather Holden-Brown, my literary agent, has been forever
supportive, and has given great guidance throughout this project. I
would like to thank Jacqui Small for publishing the book; her
immense knowledge and guidance has taken the book in a great
direction. And to the rest of the team at Jacqui Small who have
worked on this book with me: Fritha Saunders, my commissioning
editor, for shaping the book and getting the myriad of recipes in the
right order and format; Penny Stock, for her calm and collected
approach and great design; Lucy Harvey, for sourcing very special
props, and an extended thank you to Victoria Allen for the stunning
props from Props Ltd; Rachel Malig, for her support, patience and
persistence in editing and unravelling the text; and to the amazing
Keiko Oikawa for the stunning photography – her talent and
special eye for light and detail is second to none.
On a personal front, to my husband David Wright, for his
support and ruthless (but loving) criticism. To my children, Sugar
Ray and Mia Ray, for happily tucking in, trying new foods and
giving constructive feedback. To my sister, Trine Hahnemann, for
moral support and for sharing her network. To local friends,
growers, colleagues and foodies Donna Freed and Hiromi
Frateantonio for their support and gung-ho attitude to life –
anything is possible, come rain or shine. To Vicente Todoli and all
his associates for the citrus, oil, dinners and company through the
seasons, a truly inspiring bunch who always inject sunshine and
thirst for a creative life.
A big thank you to all my key suppliers who have supported me
with this book. As Jeremy Rose, my business partner for many
years when we were running our sushi empire, used to say: ‘You
are only as good as your suppliers.’ They are: Jon Old and the rest
of the team at The Real Wasabi Company, for their vision in
growing this amazing Japanese ingredient in the UK
(thewasabicompany.co.uk); Jennifer Wood, the finest tea
connoisseur in the land, tracking mountain high and valley low for
the finest-quality teas, always sharing and inspiring
(cantonteaco.com); Juliet and Guy Grieve at The Ethical Shellfish
Company on the Isle of Mull, for the most fantastic, succulent,
sweet, and by far the most sustainable scallops
(ethicalshellfishcompany.co.uk); Manami and the team at Tombo
Tea for the beautiful matcha; Bruce Ward from Shields, the most
caring fish merchant in London, sharing knowledge and tricks of
the trade freely; Shaun and Alan Henderson for the great sweet
crab meat and local lobster (and a great annual crab festival); CJ
Jackson and Fred Stroyan from Billingsgate Training School for
being great fish buddies (www.seafoodtraining.org); Jamie Angus
and the rest of the team at MSC UK for the sponsorship and the
great support over the years – one of the finest ecolabels available
(msc.org) – I never had a more impressive fish delivery. Finally, to
Naine Woodrow of North Street Potters, whose dedication to her
craft, people and community is awe-inspiring; every single piece of
crockery from the North Street collective is created with passion
and care, with its own individual signature by the most inspiring
team of potters (northstreetpotters.com).
http://thewasabicompany.co.uk/
http://cantonteaco.com/
http://ethicalshellfishcompany.co.uk/
http://www.seafoodtraining.org/
http://msc.org/
http://northstreetpotters.com/
About the Author
SILLA BJERRUM is an award-winning expert in Japanese cooking.
She is a permanent staff member at the Billingsgate Seafood
Training School in London, and co-founded the popular restaurant
chain Feng Sushi, which was awarded the City of London Prize for
Sustainability in 2011 and 2012, and the Sustainable Restaurant
Association’s Prize for Innovation for her six-season menu. She
also won the Marine Steward Council (MSC) Chef of the Year in
2015. Silla is currently working as a consultant to the Japanese
restaurant trade in the UK and internationally, while still a
committed chef teaching sushi and Japanese food courses and skills
workshops. She is also a regular feature on the pop-up restaurant
scene.
DEDICATION: This book is for my family,
David, Sugar Ray and Mia Ray
First published in 2018 by Jacqui Small
An imprint of The Quarto Group
74–77 White Lion Street
London N1 9PF
Text copyright © 2018 by Silla Bjerrum
Design and layout copyright © Jacqui Small 2018
The author’s moral rights have been asserted.
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced, stored in a
retrieval system or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic,
electrostatic, magnetic tape, mechanical, photocopying, recording or
otherwise, without prior permission in writing from the publisher.
Publisher: Jacqui Small
Senior Commissioning Editor: Fritha Saunders
Managing Editor: Emma Heyworth-Dunn
Art Director: Penny Stock
Editor: Rachel Malig
Photography Keiko Oikawa
Props stylist: Lucy Harvey
Production: Maeve Healy
Digital edition: 978-1-91112-795-6
Hardcover edition: 978-1-91112-734-5
A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.
2017 2016 2015
http://www.quartoknows.com/
	Introduction
	Fish Robata
	Other Robata
	Classic Yakitori
	Other Skewers
	Nibbles
	Salads and Sides
	Desserts and Drinks
	Index
	Acknowledgements